Im thinking about buying some of these shocks, i know they come pre shortened but id like to know how low they can go ( MY GOAL IS NOT SLAMMED)

i was thinking about getting the gc top hats with them but a few people advised against it

Id like to see some pics of these shocks because i have yet to find a picture, of the Race version

pic request of KONI 8041 (spss3) race shocks

 

bump

 

Sorry I have no pics, but I can tell you that the reason they come shortened, is so that you don't have to use extended upper mounts. Extended upper mounts will add too much compression travel. If you have too much compression travel, the UCAs will make contact with the shock tower. If that happens, you can damage the UCAs and/or the shock towers.

 

how much can these shocks be lowered (and still be preloaded)

 

That would depend on what spring you were using with them...

If your worried about loosing the pre-load, you can always add some helper spirngs...

 

how much travel do they have with springs preloaded

to keep the shocks "preloaded", they are only going to go "so low" regardless of spring length (with coilovers)

 

are the regular KONI "sport" yellow's shorter then oem honda shocks?

and the koni 8041 race is shorter then the regular "sport's" ? ?

 

picture a regular koni yellow..


ok got that in your head? now that exatcly what the 8041 looks like.


and "how low they can go" is going to be a factor of your spring rates more then the koni. but they can get you low enough that you would only have about 1 inch of travel befor your upper arm hits the body of the car

Contact CRX lee on here for more info.

 

but are the regular koni sports, shorter then oem honda shocks?

 

no

 

how many inch drop dos everybody think it will take to get a 2 finger wheel/fender gap (about 1").......on a EG hatchback on 15" rims with 205/50 azenis tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20A_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many inch drop dos everybody think it will take to get a 2 finger wheel/fender gap (about 1").......on a EG hatchback on 15" rims with 205/50 azenis tires</TD></TR></TABLE>

why do you care about were the car will sit looks wise, if its a track car its not going to set level anyways.

 

i care because its not a track only car it's also my daily driver

i dont wanna ride slammed, just not a 4x4

think 2" will do it?


Modified by K20A_EH at 10:30 PM 12/5/2006

 

i herd about pushing the shocks into the FORK to get a extra inch of drop

is that safe.....how is it done

 

jesus christ, really use the search function and contact CRX lee like i said earlier.

 

is the fork mod safe......im worried about it moving on the shock body

 

do i just tighten the bottom fork onto the koni shock body (and it will make a new dent)?
wonte it strip the bolt and fork?

how about a small tack weld on three sides so the fork wonte go above that?

will the head mess up the shocks insides?

 

The dent is only a guide for the initial alignment of the bolt so one the bolt is started, you don't need a dent and you won't crossthread the bolt. The pinching force is what actually holds the shocks in place so simply tightening the bolt enough will hold it all that it needs.

If someone can find a link to one of my many step by step process posts on it, it might be helpful. Thanks.

 

I saved this in my clipboard...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.

You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).

Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.

BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

is the bottom part of the shock, tapered?

how do you get those oem brake brackets off (i thought they were welded on

 

On some aftermarket shocks, the bracket is welded on. On OEM shocks, the bracket is just pressed on & rests against 3 dimples that stick out of the shock body. You can simply hammer them right off, grind the base & put them back on (or remove them completely). BTW: This is all part of any Koni shock install since Konis for civics & tegs don't come with any brake line brackets whatsoever....

The shock is not tapered at all. The fork simply "clamps" onto the shock body via the pinch bolt. This clamping force is all thats holding your car up in any situation. If you didn't properly install the pinch bolt on the stock setup, the weight of the car would quickly destroy that brake-line bracket & force the fork up the shock shaft...

 

that dos'nt sound safe

i have seen a few sets of Koni's and they look slightly tapered at the bottom
but they were for A DA and EF's
i have'nt seen a set of EG/DC koni's

 

Does this look tapered very much to you? Any taper cut into the shock body is simply there to make it easier to slide fork over the base of the shock. Just get over it. This is a trick that road racers & auto-xers have been using for years & years with NO problems. If your worried about doing it, then don't, but quit asking for advise about it...

 

dude i just want to know exacty what im buying.... i think i have it figured out now

but i have seen a pic of a tapered KONI (not for eg)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20A_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude i just want to know exacty what im buying.... i think i have it figured out now

but i have seen a pic of a tapered KONI (not for eg)</TD></TR></TABLE>

chad posted up pictures of koni sports for the EF, DA, EG, DC, and EK. The only difference in them was the length. Not one of them was tapered.