Car made 390 HP & 311 TQ on pump gas @ 18PSI; Dyno'ed in 4th Gear.

Engine:
<U>Bottom end:</U>
-JDM Closed Deck H22A block
-Pressed in iron liners (87mm bore)
-Wiseco 8.5:1 Compression pistons
-Eagle rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts
<U>Head:</U>
-Stock cams & cam gears
-Supertech Valvespring and TI retainers
-Stock valves
-Stock sized ports
-Modified stock Intake Manifold with STOCK throttle body
<U>Fueling:</U>
-Precision 880CC Injectors
-Walbro 255 HP
<U>MISC:</U>
-Balancer shaft belt taken off
-Fluidampr Harmonic dampener pulley
-PS taken off
-AC retained

Turbo setup:
-Custom SS log manifold
-Tial 38mm Wastegate (18 PSI spring)
-Master power 60-1 w/Anti-surge (.63AR Turbine w/ Stage 3 wheel/ .70 AR Compressor)
-Full 3" SS downpipe with 3" Kteller exhaust piping to Apexi-N1 Muffler
-2.5" Hot side charge pipe to 3" Cold side charge pipe- AL piping

Tune:
-Tuned on CROME PRO
-Conservative AFR & Timing Maps

Engine building, turbo fabrication, & tuning was done by Huy @ Inline Racing. 3.5K Miles on this setup so far and everything has held together perfectly.

Dyno Graph:








Modified by bb_one at 9:14 PM 12/4/2006

 

wow great numbers!

all these turbo 'ludes popping up!!

 

Open up that intake side a bit and you will see huge gains

nice numbers

 

great numbers. congrats!!
now what about some pics or vids!!

 

looks good, what machine shop does your machine work?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Open up that intake side a bit and you will see huge gains

nice numbers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, next is a 74mm+ throttle body. I already "ported" out the IM, but I think I should be more agressive on it. Only cut out the IAB spacer and the top half of the IM. Probably cut the lower half and port out the runners as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great numbers. congrats!!
now what about some pics or vids!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pics will be coming soon after I clean up some things.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good, what machine shop does your machine work?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Houston Engine & Balancing Service - They do fantastic work. All our machine work is done there. We've never had a problem with any of their work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb_one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea, next is a 74mm+ throttle body. I already "ported" out the IM, but I think I should be more agressive on it. Only cut out the IAB spacer and the top half of the IM. Probably cut the lower half and port out the runners as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you might just be better off picking up one of those OBX manifolds off ebay, they are supposed to be pretty reliable and I feel like it would do very well on your setup....oh and 74 mm sounds very nice

 

Numbers are nice but at 18 psi its not amazing. However excelent job

 

I have also herd of people usually dynoing in 3rd gear... would the numbers be any higher if you did dyno in 3rd?

 

I thought about that, but I am kinda wary about the quality. It's hard to get a good review with OBX products as people can be overly biased about how shitty they are.

Would you know how the fitment/quality is on that manifold? I'd sure hate to dish out 200 bucks for an oversized paperweight.

 

Yes, numbers are typically higher if dyno'ed in 3rd gear. However for cars that make over 300 we usually dyno in 4th gear. Plus this way, the tune is good for 4th gear pulls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb_one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought about that, but I am kinda wary about the quality. It's hard to get a good review with OBX products as people can be overly biased about how shitty they are.

Would you know how the fitment/quality is on that manifold? I'd sure hate to dish out 200 bucks for an oversized paperweight.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have seen posts on here before about it, if I find anything concrete I'll let you know

plus who wants to have a shiny OBX manifold under their hood lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have seen posts on here before about it, if I find anything concrete I'll let you know

plus who wants to have a shiny OBX manifold under their hood lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, I know what you mean. However as long as it works and works well, I really don't mind. I should dig up some stuff on that IM as well, see what the consensus is, thanks for the heads up.

We used to have an OBX diff in one of the guys car and we just could not blow that thing up. We just machined a bevel in the diff so that we could take out the axle (lesson learned late after having to destroy one axle). If only OBX did that from the factory, they would've atleast had a decent product.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Numbers are nice but at 18 psi its not amazing. However excelent job </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats due to the low compression pistons. My setup is very close, being around 400hp is awesome whether 18psi or not.

 

tell me more about these pressed in liners?....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cparreno &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats due to the low compression pistons. My setup is very close, being around 400hp is awesome whether 18psi or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tell me more about these pressed in liners?....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am sure you know that the H22 has FRM sleeves. In order to run forged pistons, one must use an iron sleeve. Instead of going with a ductile iron sleeve like those from GE, Benson, Darton, etc etc, I decided to use just a regular iron sleeve. These sleeves are meant for stock replacement sleeves.

In essence, this block is now like a B series block or an F22 block. I opted for these iron sleeves for a few reasons.

1) The obvious, to run forged pistons
2) My HP goal was not 600hp, but 400whp which B series motors with forged internals can handle all day long with a good tune.
3) Availablity, I was able to have the block done in a week and it costed me 400 for the sleeves, sleeving, decking, & honing.
4) Trying something new

Of course this setup will not compare to a ductile iron sleeve like those from GE or Darton,but if your power goals are 400-450, this setup is not such a bad idea.

 

so basically this would be the optimal way to go when trying to use forged pistons (other than Mahle) with naturally aspirated street/drag motors.


and it was only 400 for the process? thats like 1500 dollars difference from sleeving costs

 

Yea, I would definately do this same setup if I were to go NA. I played it safe and stuck with the std bore size (87mm). Coupled with a closed deck design, we expected it to be pretty stout and able to handle 400 hp easily.

I believe this setup is good for 500hp on race gas or maybe even E85 (I really really want to try E85 out for myself). I found one place in Houston that has it so that's why I would love to try it as it's so much cheaper then race gas. With a good tune I believe this is achievable.

The sleeves were 25 bucks a piece. And machine work ran like 350, so actually the cost was 450, not 400 sorry. But the most valuable thing for me was we dropped it off at the machine shop on Monday and I picked it up the next Monday . You cannot do that with Golden Eagle. It was to my amazment that I had a complete built motor in a matter of 2 weeks (with the head being sent out after I got the block back).

*Pics added of the block*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically this would be the optimal way to go when trying to use forged pistons (other than Mahle) with naturally aspirated street/drag motors.


and it was only 400 for the process? thats like 1500 dollars difference from sleeving costs</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol blake has a sleeve-boner.....haha

not all sleeving costs $2000.....but this is certainly a cheaper alternative, that if done correctly, should work perfectly for 95% of the NA setups on here....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol blake has a sleeve-boner.....haha

not all sleeving costs $2000.....but this is certainly a cheaper alternative, that if done correctly, should work perfectly for 95% of the NA setups on here....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. A lot of people dog on these iron sleeves because they think it is crap, but they forget that there are a lot of contributing factors that can lead to its failure. Machine work, assembly, tuning, etc etc all can affect its reliability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol blake has a sleeve-boner.....haha

not all sleeving costs $2000.....but this is certainly a cheaper alternative, that if done correctly, should work perfectly for 95% of the NA setups on here....</TD></TR></TABLE>

or lower HP/PSI turbo builds?

 

it just means that i can run pretty much any r/s ratio i wanted (within its own limits) and use a custom wiseco piston compression for about the cost of getting it sleeved by companies like benson, GE...

yes this makes me happy. Time to find a bare H block and pick up the f22 from the junkyard

 

well these pressed in liners make it possibe to make a more reliable budget turbo build for people like me

*goes out and starts disassembling spare H23 motor*

 

Mahle is still the way to go for NA. FRM is very valuable for it's heat-exchanging properties.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mahle is still the way to go for NA. FRM is very valuable for it's heat-exchanging properties.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a very good point