short ram, headers, gutted cat, 93 octane, everthing else stock

 

Let me guess, cylinder #3?

Ali

 

very close, #2, seems that # 2 and 3 cylinders run a little hotter, but still should run not lean on stock internals

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a cooling deficiency. When the K motors were designed, this was an issue that they were specifically ordered to solve.
At 172 dyno HP out of the box, there's no real problem and the B motor will tool along smoothly for a couple hundred thousand miles.

However, at 200 dyno HP, the issue definitely shows up, especially in cars that are frequently tracked or raced.

The first time I blew my B motor, it was in a state of tune that got 192 dyno HP. Part of the way we got 192 HP with stock cams involved cam gears and a mixture that looked safe, but which simply created too many problems when under load for extended periods at very high temperatures in cylinder 3.

I actually burned through a valve and melted a piston. The car's temperature gauge showed its normal position while this was happening. The coolant that gets near cylinder 3 overheats and can't do a good job, because there isn't enough of it, but it has cooled down again by the time it gets to the water temperature sender and you cannot tell from looking at the OEM gauge that anything is wrong.

Although I can appreciate the opinions of people who only want B motors in their DC2 ITR, the fact is that the K motor was designed to specifically solve this and other problems that B motors can have when pushed beyond the OEM parameters. At 220 HP on the dyno, my K motor doesn't show any signs of any kind of piston or cylinder head heat problem.

Something else I have noticed is that the oil looks visibly different when being changed out of a K motor. Although it's being changed at the same mileage that it would have been changed in the B motor, the oil coming out of the K motor is visibly less burned.

If you are going to push your B motor to 200 dyno HP or beyond, think about extra cooling in order to extend the life of your motor build. An oil cooler would be a very good idea.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing I could add is that when tuning a Bseries for longevity AND power production, you should add a little bit more fuel to cylinder #3... as the heat also causes it to run leaner, which in turn creates more heat. Additional fuel also has cooling properties, so this may also aid in the survivability of the motor under duress. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Quotes taken from this thread;
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1820688

Ali

 

Wow, that's actually pretty interesting to know,
Being that was said by GK, I would assume the facts about the K have good chances of being true.

No wonder why they're so expensive, and fast

 

lean means high cylinder temps. depending on how long it was runnng lean, a meltdown was inevitable. maybe bad oxygen sensor?