Dyno Tuning / engine power resistance training...
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 1
From: Behind The Camera,, FL, USA
Come muse with me for a few minutes!
Hey Gang,
If anyone has been in my shoes that would like to help me, I am looking
for anyone that has had results with the following:
on a B Series Motor:
building the motor up first, leaving the exhaust, intake manifold and airboxes
stock and just tuning the motor to make the desired power. my philosophy
is that when I get my GSR to 185/145 I can no longer make significant
power with the stock hardware and will at least need a muffler and cat back system and some kind of CAI system. I have modded my stock header to flow better full range it may be a compromise but its still better than speding redundant
money.
I figure the most bang for buck on the Integra is the cat back, and then I can
do a CAI of some kind both second hand for all I care. Maybe a second hand
Comptech header! Its gonna get used anyway... why not save some money
and have better breathing so I can really tune the motor.
My last iteration did 160/122 on the wheels all stock but the intake cam,
ITR valves and intake valve springs, double intakes moved to exhaust cam.
I also did an ACT HD/SS with a ITR flywheel.
I revised my setup and the car pulls much, MUCH harder now. I hope to hit
higher baseline of 175/135 or higher tomorrow.
the block is stock, my attention was turned to the cams, valvetrain and head.
I have the thing tricked. I dont have a full port/polish job, just colder and
faster, larger volume of air, a larger intake cone and more compression. I figured all that air isnt doing much without it moving out, so at some point I will have the head ported and polished. Personally, I dont really feel I need to do that until I build my block up to catch the crank revs up to my valvetrain capability. I modified my stock intake and exhust manifolds and no doubt they are now flowing more efficiently. The results are in the seat when I drive the car which is encouraging.
Tonight I gained on a CL TypeS when we hit 3rd at 80. From starting after he did and from behind on a red turn light being at a corner dead stopped the guy disengaged me after that!!!... "what did you do to your car?" I have left an S2000 in my rear view more than once. They all about **** when they saw my lil' GSR and my smile beeping my horn as I go by! I have yet to run a stock ITR. I played with one with intake and exhaust today and I ran equal to him while rolling in the same gear. He had suspension work also and was on a stock muff with an intake of some kind. I am guessing based on that, with the weight and gear diffs about 178-182/130-135 to the wheel tuned the best I can currently.
Tomorrow I will only tune ignition timing to ideal spec, I have found that
the best compromise for my intake and exhaust where it is currently breathing
is with my cams at +3,+2 which is actually @ +4,+3 (.445mm gasket) making @ 30+ degrees of overlap and the car pulls hard from 4K-8K and the low cam event feels awesome. Very smooth with no dead spots, even up top!
My planned runs: purpose is to document a range for static
fuel prssure tuning before adding my B&M.
Stock 99GSR P72
16BTDC at 42.5psi: +3,+2
18BTDC at 42.5psi: +3,+2
20BTDC at 42.5psi: +3,+2
the best setting at 52.5psi vaccum advance taken off
(make a 42.5/52.5 comp graph at best timing kept constant)
again, I hope to get close to my 185/145 mark but I think that I will need
more tuning to get there than what is posted above. tomorrow in
the am first thing I will readjust my valve lashes bone cold to:
.00625" IN, .00750" EX. everything in the motor tune up wise... everything
will be less than 1K miles old with fresh 5-30 mobil one lube job I did
today.
It should pull well.
MY QUESTION: is, when I begin to taper this motor i.e. open up the
breathing... I,H,E... intake, VAFC..., fuel, cam tuning what kind of gains
would I see over a "stock" breathing setup at say... making... 180/135
at the wheels...?
What power percentage gain would be possible from doing the whole tuning
package at one time using say a TypeR muffler or Comptech ITR cat back system, Comptech Ice Box with intake or AEM CAI, VAFC and cam tuning? I want to wait on the header if having to purchase new to get a VAFC and tune my fuel curve.
I estimate 8-12% over posted unmbers if tuned properly
on higher compression of @ 11.2:1 tuned to 30+ deg of overlap
on CTR cams, .445mm gasket thickness, ITR intake valves and
Endyn 28.5mm flat exhaust valves.
Thanks a Bunch,
Mike in Orlando
I figure the next series after that would be a 4.785:1, honda slip diff and
a taller 5th gear so I can drop a bit on the highway and compensate
for fuel economy/speed with new mugen or spoon rubber engine
mounts all around and my energy susp. torque mount inserts.
then, rear koni yellows, ITR brakes and hubs with RSX-S wheels (light!!)
anodized gunmetal grey with 225/45/16ZR POTENZA S03s (I got the hookupz)
then I will also look to increase spring rates after driving on koni/comptech setup for a while.
I
my Gen3 Teg!
[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 9:08 AM 5/10/2002]
Hey Gang,
If anyone has been in my shoes that would like to help me, I am looking
for anyone that has had results with the following:
on a B Series Motor:
building the motor up first, leaving the exhaust, intake manifold and airboxes
stock and just tuning the motor to make the desired power. my philosophy
is that when I get my GSR to 185/145 I can no longer make significant
power with the stock hardware and will at least need a muffler and cat back system and some kind of CAI system. I have modded my stock header to flow better full range it may be a compromise but its still better than speding redundant
money.
I figure the most bang for buck on the Integra is the cat back, and then I can
do a CAI of some kind both second hand for all I care. Maybe a second hand
Comptech header! Its gonna get used anyway... why not save some money
and have better breathing so I can really tune the motor.
My last iteration did 160/122 on the wheels all stock but the intake cam,
ITR valves and intake valve springs, double intakes moved to exhaust cam.
I also did an ACT HD/SS with a ITR flywheel.
I revised my setup and the car pulls much, MUCH harder now. I hope to hit
higher baseline of 175/135 or higher tomorrow.
the block is stock, my attention was turned to the cams, valvetrain and head.
I have the thing tricked. I dont have a full port/polish job, just colder and
faster, larger volume of air, a larger intake cone and more compression. I figured all that air isnt doing much without it moving out, so at some point I will have the head ported and polished. Personally, I dont really feel I need to do that until I build my block up to catch the crank revs up to my valvetrain capability. I modified my stock intake and exhust manifolds and no doubt they are now flowing more efficiently. The results are in the seat when I drive the car which is encouraging.
Tonight I gained on a CL TypeS when we hit 3rd at 80. From starting after he did and from behind on a red turn light being at a corner dead stopped the guy disengaged me after that!!!... "what did you do to your car?" I have left an S2000 in my rear view more than once. They all about **** when they saw my lil' GSR and my smile beeping my horn as I go by! I have yet to run a stock ITR. I played with one with intake and exhaust today and I ran equal to him while rolling in the same gear. He had suspension work also and was on a stock muff with an intake of some kind. I am guessing based on that, with the weight and gear diffs about 178-182/130-135 to the wheel tuned the best I can currently.
Tomorrow I will only tune ignition timing to ideal spec, I have found that
the best compromise for my intake and exhaust where it is currently breathing
is with my cams at +3,+2 which is actually @ +4,+3 (.445mm gasket) making @ 30+ degrees of overlap and the car pulls hard from 4K-8K and the low cam event feels awesome. Very smooth with no dead spots, even up top!
My planned runs: purpose is to document a range for static
fuel prssure tuning before adding my B&M.
Stock 99GSR P72
16BTDC at 42.5psi: +3,+2
18BTDC at 42.5psi: +3,+2
20BTDC at 42.5psi: +3,+2
the best setting at 52.5psi vaccum advance taken off
(make a 42.5/52.5 comp graph at best timing kept constant)
again, I hope to get close to my 185/145 mark but I think that I will need
more tuning to get there than what is posted above. tomorrow in
the am first thing I will readjust my valve lashes bone cold to:
.00625" IN, .00750" EX. everything in the motor tune up wise... everything
will be less than 1K miles old with fresh 5-30 mobil one lube job I did
today.
It should pull well.
MY QUESTION: is, when I begin to taper this motor i.e. open up the
breathing... I,H,E... intake, VAFC..., fuel, cam tuning what kind of gains
would I see over a "stock" breathing setup at say... making... 180/135
at the wheels...?
What power percentage gain would be possible from doing the whole tuning
package at one time using say a TypeR muffler or Comptech ITR cat back system, Comptech Ice Box with intake or AEM CAI, VAFC and cam tuning? I want to wait on the header if having to purchase new to get a VAFC and tune my fuel curve.
I estimate 8-12% over posted unmbers if tuned properly
on higher compression of @ 11.2:1 tuned to 30+ deg of overlap
on CTR cams, .445mm gasket thickness, ITR intake valves and
Endyn 28.5mm flat exhaust valves.
Thanks a Bunch,
Mike in Orlando
I figure the next series after that would be a 4.785:1, honda slip diff and
a taller 5th gear so I can drop a bit on the highway and compensate
for fuel economy/speed with new mugen or spoon rubber engine
mounts all around and my energy susp. torque mount inserts.
then, rear koni yellows, ITR brakes and hubs with RSX-S wheels (light!!)
anodized gunmetal grey with 225/45/16ZR POTENZA S03s (I got the hookupz)
then I will also look to increase spring rates after driving on koni/comptech setup for a while.
I
my Gen3 Teg![Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 9:08 AM 5/10/2002]
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