How many of you guys run lucas oil addative in your car? Im running a high compression all motor setup, and wanted to know what you think about it. Does it really lubricate as well as they say it does. Is it all hype? Please let me know any pro's or cons. Will it have any negative effects on my bearings, oil pump,etc.. I run regualar honda oil 10w-30, and wanted to know if it will help protect during all those high rev days thanks. I searched, and didnt find anything. If you have some links just post them.

 

I do not use or recommend using any additives in any motor. I prefer to run 100% synthetic oil and change it every 3 to 4K.

 

what is the best synethic oil to run in a hig compression daily drivencar

there so many
royal purple,lucas,quakter state,amsoil i used to run,torco,theres that bryon something oil,mobil 1 theres some mayn which do you recommend

 

i run mobil 1..its worked fine for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtecMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do not use or recommend using any additives in any motor. I prefer to run 100% synthetic oil and change it every 3 to 4K.</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you ever used it/or heard people say its bad? or just think its a bad idea(not sarcasm, asking seriously)?

 

There was a test on (I think) Bobistheoilguy.com, where they rigged something up that would simulate a rear end--now I know we aren't talking about rear-ends, but the idea is the same. Adding the suggested amount of Lucas oil stabilizer to the base oil made the oil foam up considerably when the rig was turned on--the reason being that the Lucas oil doesn't have any or have enough anti-foaming agents in it, so adding a good amount to the base oil makes the mixture less resistant to foaming--the same thing would happen in an engine due to the crankshaft sloshing through and aerating the oil--air in oil is not good. I don't know about Lucas but there are some Moly base additives that can give your oil better protection on things like flat tappet cams (like Hondas) that certain modern oils lack--particularly the EP additives which they have taken alot out because they seem to be detrimental to cat. converters in the long run. I would say there are some worthwhile things you can add to your oil but you have to research. Go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com --there are some oil MANIACS there who can tell you what oil is best in a certain type of motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There was a test on (I think) Bobistheoilguy.com, where they rigged something up that would simulate a rear end--now I know we aren't talking about rear-ends, but the idea is the same. Adding the suggested amount of Lucas oil stabilizer to the base oil made the oil foam up considerably when the rig was turned on--the reason being that the Lucas oil doesn't have any or have enough anti-foaming agents in it, so adding a good amount to the base oil makes the mixture less resistant to foaming--the same thing would happen in an engine due to the crankshaft sloshing through and aerating the oil--air in oil is not good. I don't know about Lucas but there are some Moly base additives that can give your oil better protection on things like flat tappet cams (like Hondas) that certain modern oils lack--particularly the EP additives which they have taken alot out because they seem to be detrimental to cat. converters in the long run. I would say there are some worthwhile things you can add to your oil but you have to research. Go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com --there are some oil MANIACS there who can tell you what oil is best in a certain type of motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

 

A friend of mine ran this in his 04 mustang GT which is slightly built (around 380whp). He decided to run the Lucas oil stabilizer. After adding this and starting his car he threw 3 rods through his block. After tearing it apart to see what happened they found that the oil pump was clogged/locked up. It was full of the Lucas. So what we're thinking is that it was a little to thick causing no oil to get in the cyl. and boom boom boom.
He is now on a new motor with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

This was never confirmed or dynied.

 

Nobody here can tell you which oil to buy and why one is better than another. A few years ago consumer reports tried to do a comparison between the major oils by running them in identical taxi cabs. This is the most complete test that I know of and it’s still pretty flawed. The problem is that taxi cabs are pretty much run 24-7 so it’s always up to temp. I don’t know about you but I make a lot of sub 15 min trips where I don’t get up to temp. Hell, here in WI I just drove for an hour and didn’t get up to temp. Your best bet is to go buy a name brand synthetic that makes you tingly inside and then stay with the same oil for the life of your car. Again, this is just my opinion.

 

Modern diesel oils have alot of EP (extreme pressure) additives--since they don't have catalytic converters--and alot of peopl have success using them. I have some Delvac 5w-40 Mobil 1--which is a synthetic mixed fleet oil. Very good oil--the diesel oils generally will protect your engine better than a regular gas oil.

 

Why do i never hear ppl running that ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bEKcoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...I don’t know about you but I make a lot of sub 15 min trips where I don’t get up to temp. Hell, here in WI I just drove for an hour and didn’t get up to temp... </TD></TR></TABLE>

If your not getting 'up to temp', ie normal operating temp according to your temp gauge, you need to address that problem. This could be caused by a faulty (stuck open) thermostat. Your car should take less than 10 minutes to reach normal operating temp, even in a sub zero climate.

As for the OP, don't use additives, use good oil. Everyone swears by Mobil full synthetic or if you prefer conventional, use Castrol GTX. I have 300K miles on my 92 RS and use Castrol GTX. The head is still clean as a whistle, and if it wasn't for worn valve seals causing a tiny puff at start-up, no oil would be consumed at all.

 

Royal Purple w/ a hamp filter does the trick for me.

 

I used to think oil additives were a waste of money--but the truth is different oils have very different additive packages--the base oil may be similar or even the same--but there are more differences in oils than most people think. There are some good additives you can add--moly based. The moly functions as an EP additive--so a cheaper oil that may not have good protection for things like cams and rockers--the additive can help. You really have to do your homework though and figure out exactly what is in the oil that you are using and then figure out what the additive can add to it. Most of the normal ones you see like Lucas or STP are too general and probably don't do anything helpful. Check out the site I mentioned earlier--there is so much info on oil and additives it will make your head spin.

 

Most people only have a tiny little knowledge of oil--and there really is a lot to know. You can't go wrong with Castrol GTX for dino or Mobil 1 for synthetic but they are far from the "best". I myself am learning more and more each day about what makes one oil better than another--and I still have hardly scratched the surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do i never hear ppl running that ? </TD></TR></TABLE>the reason you don't hear people running it is because they don't know about it or why it makes it quite good for certain applications.

 

i'm running it in my beater and cant tell the difference. i just stick to what honda factory used for performance mobil1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your not getting 'up to temp', ie normal operating temp according to your temp gauge, you need to address that problem. This could be caused by a faulty (stuck open) thermostat. Your car should take less than 10 minutes to reach normal operating temp, even in a sub zero climate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is false.

 

i invite you guys to read up on shell rotella T...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bEKcoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is false.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's false about it? With a properly functioning thermostat that will restrict the coolant flow thereby allowing the by-product of any combustion engine 'heat', to warm up the engine to the proper operating temp. If I am wrong, please tell me why, I live to learn.

 

Rotella T is a "dino" diesel oil--good stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i invite you guys to read up on shell rotella T...</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do u know about it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to think oil additives were a waste of money--but the truth is different oils have very different additive packages--the base oil may be similar or even the same--but there are more differences in oils than most people think. There are some good additives you can add--moly based. The moly functions as an EP additive--so a cheaper oil that may not have good protection for things like cams and rockers--the additive can help. You really have to do your homework though and figure out exactly what is in the oil that you are using and then figure out what the additive can add to it. Most of the normal ones you see like Lucas or STP are too general and probably don't do anything helpful. Check out the site I mentioned earlier--there is so much info on oil and additives it will make your head spin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

been reading up on it, most of it is french to me, but understanding it slowly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's false about it? With a properly functioning thermostat that will restrict the coolant flow thereby allowing the by-product of any combustion engine 'heat', to warm up the engine to the proper operating temp. If I am wrong, please tell me why, I live to learn.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im basing this purely from expirience. I have worked on dozens of hondas who dont get up to temp in this cold winter weather. Ive tried many things including brand new honda thermostats. Im assuming that even when the thermostat is closed there is water flowing through the radiator. Im not sure about that, but i assume it must because the water pump is still turning and if the water doesnt have anywhere to go the pump would cavitate and not last very long. So if water is flowing through the radiator...even just a little in this climate the temperature differential is large. So at idle the engine isnt making enough heat to counter act the ambient air temperature and while cruising the increase in heat due to the load is counter acted by the large quantity of air flowing through the radiator and around the engine. The only way i get up to temp is throwing a fatty piece of cardboard infront of the radiator. If somebody knows something i dont know i would love to hear it. I doubt that you have much trouble getting up to temp down in florida though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i invite you guys to read up on shell rotella T...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stuff works great been using rotella for years

On a side note a guy i work with put Lucas in the F150 two weeks later i was spitting so much oil out the intake we had to put it down.

 

Quake State High RPM Oil or Royal Purple. Royal Purple runs cooler but seems to be the same in performance as Quaker State. Quaker State has some additive in it that makes it a light brown color, just wanted to mention that because the quality is really good. The High RPM Oil is a Synthetic Blend, if you want peer synthetic, stick with Quaker State or Royal Purple. 20W-30 is what I used on d16, night and day change from mobil one and other brands. I've tested all oils except lucas.

My thoughts:
1. Royal Purple-Runs Cool, Efficient, and Cleaner.
2. Quaker State (High RPM/or Full Sythetic)-Runs Warmer, Efficient, and Seems to be the top performer out of all oils which are easy to find in stores.
3. Honda OEM-Used it once, feels better than all oils used below.
4. Mobil One-Doesn't run as good as Quaker State, RPM is less.
5. Castrol Sythetic-Runs bad, changed it out the day it was put in, never will use this posion again.