Hello Everyone,

First of all just wanted to say hi and that i am a new member to HT and love it thus so far..

Anyway to business... heres the story, ive been waiting 8 months for everything to come together after spinning a bearing on my mildly-built GSR. Everything finally fits together and the shop finishes the build heres the new setup...

Golden Eagle Block Sleeving 2.0L
Golden Eagle MFG 84mm Headgasket
Eagle Rods
Endyn 84mm Mid Comp Piston 12.5:1
Eagle OE Stroke Lightweight Crank
Type R Replica Port & Polish (3-Angle)
Skunk2 Stage II cams
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Crower Springs (Dual Spring)
Crower Retainers
Type R Valves
ARP Head Bolts
Energy Suspension Engine Mounts
AEM Cold air intake
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
JG Header
IPS Carsound Cat
5Zigen Exhaust
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
AEM Fuel Rail
Hondata S100
MSD Plug Wires
MSD Digital-6
MSD Blaster Coil
NGK Plugs
GSR Oil Pump
Aluminum Radiator

building my list i expected to see around the 210whp 230ft/lb tq area.. i get a call from shop to say its finished and show up to find a dyno sheet of 170whp 126tq...

shop claims my cat, 2.25" piping, cams being too small, and the aem ca intake are all the cause. I know very well that being naturally aspirated depends all on flow but does this and my s2s2's really result in the low dyno numbers? I already dumped the CA for a 3" shortram w/new filter.

I was just wondering if anyone could give some insight or share their thoughts on my situation. not saying 170/126 isnt fun to drive just 200+ sounds so much better!

Oh and get this, before i handed over the car to the shop my previous dyno sheet from a different shop was 182whp/121ft/lbs tq... 3 grand later, 12 less horsepower, doesnt seem right. Heres what i added on top of my old setup: GE block sleeving, oem bearings, endyn pistons 12.5:1 (previously 11.5:1 JE), eagle lightweight crank, and of course balance bore and hone.

Any thoughts are appreciated, and i give a pre-thank you to all who respond

Thanks again

 

get a new tuner lol
i really dunno what to tell you til we can see the dyno sheet man
just sounds like an extremly horrible tune, you should be seeing 200+ with out a doubt
i ran a similar setup with s2s2 and they werent too small.

 

well it does sound to me like the shop sucks, though a 2.25 inch exhaust is very small...

 

you need a new tuner. since you're in wa state try http://www.intecracing.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCD-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shop claims my cat, 2.25" piping, cams being too small, and the aem ca intake are all the cause. I know very well that being naturally aspirated depends all on flow but does this and my s2s2's really result in the low dyno numbers? I already dumped the CA for a 3" shortram w/new filter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My setup ran low on the dyno too. I'm using an old DC 4-2-1 2" header with an even older Trust BL exhaust.

Simply installing a 3" intake netted 5whp.

 

That shop is telling you stories about you exhaust, even with a 2.25 you should be making more power then that. Their is nothing wrong with your cams either, they are more then aggressive enough to make more power then that. It would be helpful if you could post of your dyno sheet, is vtec engaging? I'm just looking at your torque and considering you have a 2.0 something is going on. I just wonder how well they built your motor if their telling you stories about your exhaust or cams. NEED TO SEE YOUR DYNO SHEET.

 

yea something is wrong...a gsr with a good amount of bolt ons can make that much

 

What are your leakdown and compression #'s

 

and you'll never see 230ft/lb trq either.

 

I think he probably meant 130.....

 

Yes i did mean 130 ft/lb tq.. typo..

Anyway to answer a couple of questions..

Not to bash on my shop at all because i know they are very well renown and do nothing but quality builds, but it was built and tuned at intec racing in kent.. I will post the dyno sheet for all to see probably this evening when i get home, vtec engages but falls on its face!

Thanks everybody!

 

sounds like a solid build, id expect to see 210/140 at least out of it. with some of their previous dyno #s they have posted with their own cars id suspect something other than exhaust and intake issues. skunk stage 2 cams are not as aggressive as current cams but they are still no joke.

 

the numbers are a bit low for a 2.0 they seem more like a 1.8 than a 2.0...do a compression and leakdown and go from there..

 

i agree with the rest and feel its rather low..

My stock block B18C5 with ported head with bolt-ons like BC3+ cams + Omni valvetrain + DC JDM 4-1 + J's 60mm race exhaust gave me 184whp and 127ftlbs

I think in H-t, most 2L will net above 200whp and 135ftlbs

 

What about all the ignition stuff?
MSD Plug Wires
MSD Digital-6
MSD Blaster Coil
Most Honda's due just fine with stock.
Are you able to get a dyno with the Air/Fuel Ratio on it?
Another thought, is your VTEC working correctly?

 

What sort of dyno was this on?

 

i believe its the standard dynojet 248c.

 

well put the exhaust thing this way....if you really choke it up it isnt a matter of just not making good power, it actually backs up **** in the exhaust system and chokes the engine....

My car for example, 195whp h22....I have an electric cutout, when open, the car rips to redline smoothly.....with the cutout closed, choking through a 2.25 inch cat and exhaust, the car runs fine until vtec, then falls on its face, sometime even bucks a little if i try to take it above 6k....

Tell them to try dynoing it open header and see what happens....its only a few bolts and it can't hurt....

 

apples to oranges. you have bigger displacement and a better flowing head in an H22.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well put the exhaust thing this way....if you really choke it up it isnt a matter of just not making good power, it actually backs up **** in the exhaust system and chokes the engine....

My car for example, 195whp h22....I have an electric cutout, when open, the car rips to redline smoothly.....with the cutout closed, choking through a 2.25 inch cat and exhaust, the car runs fine until vtec, then falls on its face, sometime even bucks a little if i try to take it above 6k....

Tell them to try dynoing it open header and see what happens....its only a few bolts and it can't hurt....</TD></TR></TABLE>

it could actually burn the valves up

 

no it cant, lol. lots of guys run open header especially for racing, like side exits, they are fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no it cant, lol. lots of guys run open header especially for racing, like side exits, they are fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was always told running open header with oem valves could burn them up...i dunno

 

wives tales.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boots &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it could actually burn the valves up</TD></TR></TABLE>

it would take one horrible tune to burn a valve like that, open header or not...

now starting the engine with no header on there at all is another thing, that could easily burn a valve

 

what exactly happens when you burn a valve? does the valve actually burn?