Like it says, what would you guys recommend for my setup, mild bolt on's intake header exhaust, and the jdm ecu. i guess im lookin for bang for the buck and whats better for the longrun Between the Apex'i Safc2 and the Hondata s200 i believe the s300 is basically for boost right?, i may possibly be looking at a 2.0L build in the next year, 90% sure itll be N/A.

 

I would go with Hondata. Or get what your tuner is more familiar with.

 

Can the safc2 even adjust vtec xover?

A Hondata S100 should serve your needs fine, but make sure you have a tuner avail that can tune it like Walker said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Parada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i believe the s300 is basically for boost right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.hondata.com/sproducts.html

Is a good comparision for you.

I personally would never go with an AFC, here is why:

Why piggybacks (vafc, emanage) "suck" by pgmfi:
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable.

The smart choice would be Hondata, Crome, Neptune, uberdata, AEM, APEXI or something similar. Choose one that your tuner is most comfortable with.

 

go hondata so you have room to grow in the future when and if you do decide to get more indepth with the build.

 

chrome it.

 

Personally, If it was me I would go with something you could tune yourself. On the fly with a laptop, S300, AEM etc.

 

hondata if you plan on doing anymore future work, otherwise you'll end up buying both

 

hondata no doubt

 

thanks for the info guys, appreciated, i was leaning toward the hondata, i dont know much about chrome or any of the other emu's but some info would be cool, im sure its just another company same idea tho right?

 

crome is freeware. meaning you can dowload the basic version free.

http://www.pgmfi.org

 

I would lean towards the Hondata set up myself, but in Oregon (Portland specifically) they smog by plugging into the ECU. Since going to the Hondata means a OBDI swap, it means it will fail smog in that situation. Something to take under consideration.

--
George

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geometro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would lean towards the Hondata set up myself, but in Oregon (Portland specifically) they smog by plugging into the ECU. Since going to the Hondata means a OBDI swap, it means it will fail smog in that situation. Something to take under consideration.

--
George</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hondata is software basically (with bells and whistles in the form of hardware). It all runs a P28 or similar ECU which are all OBD1. Crome, Neptune, ubderdata, and others are all software likewise operating on a P28 (OBD1 ECU).