ok so im lookign at my haynes manual and testing out the coil and the ICM. well the coil read a lil high under the primary resistance 1.1 and read low for the secondary resistance 10.2. They should have been between 0.6-0.8 ohms and 12.8-33.6K ohms respectively. And when I checked the ICM there was no voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground but there was voltage from the white/blue wire to ground-11.9 volts. i stopped doing the tests to see if based on the information above is my coil bad or my ICM? or do i have to follow the rest of the tests for the ICM? Thanks guys

 

bump, need to fix this ASAP, i need my car back on the road

 

take the ignition module out and take it to your local autozone....they have specific harnesses to each type of ignition module and can plug it in to run a complete test on each of the timing/fuel/spark components for FREE

 

are you serious!!!!!!!!!!!!! ahhh i would have done that 2 weeks ago. haha damn!!! thanks man

 

ohhh and should i bring the coil in as well? or do they not have a tester for that?

 

yea man no problem...i used to manage an autozone and you wouldn't believe the things we could test...but unfortunately some stores aren't as good as others and don't care to tell people or help them out...so hopefully you go to a good one and not your local vato-zone

 

so should i call up that particular one up first to make sure tehy have it there? or is it in all autozones? and i cant get that damn ICM out,theres like 20 screws in these tigh *** places... double arggggh

 

AHHHHH HAAAA!!! i found those 2 pain in the motha ****** *** screws on the side of the dizzy. 2 of my knuckles are bleeding and im really lucky i had a 7mm wrench that fit in that tight *** place. thank you craftsman. im calling first thing tomorrow to see if they have it in my local autozone and buyin the right part so i can get my car on th road.

to you GRAF-FITI
thanks again

 

ok no luck with 4 of the autozones i called. i still need help. Anyone want to share any other advice?

 

bump for a solution

 

do you have any local alternator/starter rebuild shops? they could possible test the module out as well....

 

possibly, ok i just did the ohm test again to the coil while it was off the car. the ohms read 1.0 for the primary and 11.35 for the secondary...
heres my question. with the primary ohm test i have to take in account for the ohms between the leads correct? if so then i would have to subtract .3 making it .7 which falls into the category of good. and when i did the ohms for the secondary it read11.35 which is slightly below the range of 12.8-19.2Kohms. should i just buy the control module? its gotta be that considering it failed one of the tests... right?

 

Ok heres the deal. I REALLY NEED HELP. im just gonna prolly buy both in a day or 2 if no one can help. I checked all tests for the ICM and they all checked out. but i dont get where at the end it says:
IF all Test are Normal Replace the ICM

and should i just replace the coil as well because it is out of spec by just alil, but none the less its still out of spec.

PLEASE HELP... ill throw in a free e-beer six pack...

 

replace the coil....regardless of how far out of spec it is, it is still out....and a weak spark can cause a world of trouble....do you have anyone you can swap distibutors with and test? i wanna help you get thru this

 

nah no one has a gsr by me that i no of. thanks man i do appreciate ur time and help. ohh and that e-beer sixpack is for you.

 

morning bump to find a solution

 

You should do the ohm test out of the car. Honestly, 1 or 2 ohms isn't going to hurt anything as long as there is some resistance you know the coil isn't burnt open. Also, testing for resistance isn't a perfect reading with a VOM. Just pressing harder with the probe may get you that 1 ohm.I say put the coil back and keep looking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly, ok i just did the ohm test again to the coil while it was off the car. the ohms read 1.0 for the primary and 11.35 for the secondary...
heres my question. with the primary ohm test i have to take in account for the ohms between the leads correct? if so then i would have to subtract .3 making it .7 which falls into the category of good. and when i did the ohms for the secondary it read11.35 which is slightly below the range of 12.8-19.2Kohms. should i just buy the control module? its gotta be that considering it failed one of the tests... right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanMosheen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should do the ohm test out of the car. Honestly, 1 or 2 ohms isn't going to hurt anything as long as there is some resistance you know the coil isn't burnt open. Also, testing for resistance isn't a perfect reading with a VOM. Just pressing harder with the probe may get you that 1 ohm.I say put the coil back and keep looking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did do the ohm test off the car. i think i rather spend the extra 50 bucks and get a brand new one so i dont have further problems down the road. i still dont no what this means: IF all Test are Normal Replace the ICM. As in I dont understand it it passes all the tests than its bad...

 

What is the car doing? Does it have no spark, or is it missing? Did all the other ignition tests check out?

 

no spark

 

It can pass all the tests and still be bad. somone on here I forget had that happen to em and they decided to open it up and it was all black and melted inside. It's eather in the coil or ICM.

 

i have an almost brand new coil and igniter for sale if you need....