the only reason why it took one year was because of my addiction to autocross and i got married. me and my friend picked this piece up for $300 running. after finding a little more rust than i felt like dealing with on a street car, we decided to go and turn it into a rally cross car. hopefully, we'll make our debut next year. i just need to finish wiring the motor and we want to cut a hole in the roof for our 2 way vent.

specs:
car: 1988 DX four door
motor: 1991 D16a6
trans: DX
clutch/flywheel: new OEM replacement
shocks: KYB GR-2
springs: ground control sleeves with 10 inch 250's front, 10 inch 175's rear
stiffening: front upper strut bar, rear upper/lower strut bar
wheels/tires: old school enkei mesh with kumho R700's
headlights: ebay projector. (stock ones were rusted internally. these are a heck of a lot cheaper than stock!!!)
mudflaps: custom red.
exhaust: tbd. cherrybomb exiting out passenger side, maybe..

anyways, here are some pictures. total we've spent is a little south of $1700. inluding new axles and a few other spares..




maximum red cup clearage!!!! (think beer cup.)



lemme know how long it'll last! i'm takin bets when it'll fall apart. hahahaaa. i hope not..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-AT_me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just need to finish wiring the motor and we want to cut a hole in the roof for our 2 way vent. </TD></TR></TABLE>

A roll cage would probably be a good idea.

 

i dunno. someone else mentioned that, but we're not doing stage rally with it, just rally cross. no jumps or anything major. just like one minute timed runs. kinda like an autocross on dirt. i dunno, though. i may throw an autopower roll bar in it..

 

Looks sweet!!

I would definately get at least a simple roll bar and some harnesses though.

 

harness? maybe. rollbar? not necessary.

 

That's a bitchen project. Every time I see a low dollar EF 4dr I start to twitch. Seems like there are SOOOOooooo many of them. Perfect for Rallycross. When it breaks, just get another...

Couple of things that might help it live longer:
• Those spring rates (even at that ride height) might not be high enough to keep the shocks from bottoming out. A cheap/easy way to check it for bottoming is to put small zip-ties on the damper shafts on all four corners. I use fluorescent ones so they are easy to see. Just remember to pull them down to the top of the shock canister between runs so you'll know WHEN it bottomed, if it does...
• Stock exhaust hangers WILL break and the exhaust will fall down and drag behind the car until it breaks. A cheap solution is to run a metal strap across the shifter tunnel on the underside of the car. A foot of 1/16" steel strap and a couple of bolts is all it would take. Maybe do something similar at the back of the car, as well. Cheap insurance for the inevitable...

Also: Might try a run or two with the front sway bar disconnected. An open diff on dirt is really going to spin the inside front wheel and limit your accelleration. No front bar will help keep that wheel on the ground.

 

first tip i knew about, but i consulted with one of the guys on here that runs that eg rally car that was just recently sold, and that's what he ran, so i figured it'd be an ok starting poing. plus, they are kyb's. 125 on ebay. hahaha.

but that second tip is great! thanks. i'll definately have to fab up them when i'm working on the front skid plate.

 

Ditto on the roll-bar/cage. Going sideways in dirt and catching a rut, seems like a sure way to end up on your head.

 

I like to see **** like this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ditto on the roll-bar/cage. Going sideways in dirt and catching a rut, seems like a sure way to end up on your head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is. I can't find the pics, but there was a stock Toyota that hooked a rut and rolled at a rally-x not far from here a couple years ago.

 

aight, aight. i'll add it to the list...

this'll really slow down my b16a 86 civic project, though!

thanks for your concern.

 

Let me drive it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brian*E30 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me drive it </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok.

 

Good call on the roll bar - especially if I get to drive. If you would like, I know some really rutted roads in NE DC you can take it for a shakedown on. Or, head up to Baltimore and drive around the city. Thats as close to bump hell as you can get.

 

hahahaa. that's ok. there's plenty of rural roads out in haymarket area..

y'know, i do need a good photographer. gotta get some pics of it when we're racin. only a 2 hour ride via scooter to the "track".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-AT_me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aight, aight. i'll add it to the list... </TD></TR></TABLE>

A bit higher spring rates may not be a bad way to go, but don't go crazy. Something like 250/250 or 250f/300r. and I'd definately disconnect the front sway bar, and perhaps the rear. Experiement with it. You're going to have grip and understeer problems with the front bar on.

I wouldn't worry about a roll bar at this point. Rolls are pretty uncommon at rallycrosses (although not unheard of-- that being said I've yet to see one first hand). I suspect it is more common if your'e running street tires and break a bead. Even if you do roll its going to be one of those slow, "maybe it will maybe it won't" type rolls. Flip it back over keep going.

Harnesses I wouldn't worry about right now either.

Just go have some fun.

A skid plate I would recommend. Don't know where they rallycross out in VA, but in Washington state sometimes it gets pretty rutted out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't worry about a roll bar at this point. Rolls are pretty uncommon at rallycrosses (although not unheard of-- that being said I've yet to see one first hand). I suspect it is more common if your'e running street tires and break a bead. Even if you do roll its going to be one of those slow, "maybe it will maybe it won't" type rolls. Flip it back over keep going...

Just go have some fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It took some courage (and experience) to say this, but I kind of agree. I'm always reluctant to talk someone OUT of safety equipment, but this might be one of those times.

This is a budget car built for a specific intent and limited speeds. In my experience, rally crosses do not have the same hazards as stage rally. Trees, jumps, exposures (to cliffs) and blind hairpins are just not part of the program. I would feel comfortable running that car at a rally cross event without a cage, roll bar or harness. Have some fun. Get some chops. And move on over time.

The biggest safety issue, IMO, is taking a car like this into the woods for practice. The temptation would be great. The real danger would be trying rally cross type driving when there are no safety resources in place.

I'd run it as is. Exercise restraint. And move up to a cage as time, money, and common sense dictate. If you start scaring yourself or seeing your life pass in front of your eyes, its time. Tear the car down, skip all the events you have to, and do the full deal with seats, harnesses, and the killer cage. That, or use the car as a beater while you're looking for a real rally car that already has that stuff. Used rally cars are pretty cheap. Just not many Hondas among them.

My 2¢

 

see, that's what i've been thinking. i'm re-thinking the roll bar idea..

right now, though, i need a trailer to get it to/from events. it's not so legal. i don't plan on driving it on roads anyways. but also in case of major carnage or suspension pieces gone missing. hehe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-AT_me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see, that's what i've been thinking. i'm re-thinking the roll bar idea..

right now, though, i need a trailer to get it to/from events. it's not so legal. i don't plan on driving it on roads anyways. but also in case of major carnage or suspension pieces gone missing. hehe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget to get one of these...


It's no fun having to PUSH your busted **** onto the trailer.

 

sweeet. come-along. nice thinkin.

 

[QUOTE=thawley]
It took some courage (and experience) to say this, but I kind of agree. I'm always reluctant to talk someone OUT of safety equipment, but this might be one of those times.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah it was hard for me to say as well.

As he gets bitten by the rally bug is time to step up.


[quote]
The biggest safety issue, IMO, is taking a car like this into the woods for practice. The temptation would be great. The real danger would be trying rally cross type driving when there are no safety resources in place.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah that is true. Have to understand that practicing in the woods is just ridiculously dangerous for several reasons:

1) Trees don't move and will concentrate the energy into one spot if you hit it.
2) You're in the middle of nowhere. Nobody is going to see your accident and call for medical assistance.
3) Its easy to make a mistake.


Its a bad idea, safety or not. We don't really ever take the prepared cars out and practice for these reasons.

We keep a come-along in the car while competing. Can "fix" a lot of things (like broken lower control arms) well enough to get back to service.