I was wondering what strut bar people were using for their itr. Just to see what people might have. I'm guessing most of you have the itr strut bar so i'm going to leave that one out.

Could not find this on Honda-tech so thought I add it. Please feel free to add.

 

I voted for benen... if u can find there products ! ( actually i think the website is back up )

 

does the stock one not work compared to others?

 

I actually like the carbing look best.. so my votes on that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the stock one not work compared to others?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i never understood that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ed 341 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah i never understood that</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe cause others are mounted on the shock brackets? idk...real insight would be much appreciated...i

 

I've never seen anyone actually test the strut-tower bars for effectiveness. I'm not sure how you could.

But IMO, the best one going, by design, is the Neuspeed. The 3-point firewall bars are nice, but they are also illegal in about every form of SCCA racing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

maybe cause others are mounted on the shock brackets? idk...real insight would be much appreciated...i</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the more solid the bar the less the shock towers will flex. A 3 point bar adds another mounting point which creates more rigidity. Whether you can feel it or not, maybe. I know I rode around without one for a bit and then put the 3 point on and could feel the difference.

 

I took mine out for weight savings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took mine out for weight savings.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Your caR is going to rollover on any turn over 3.76234582 mph!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



Your caR is going to rollover on any turn over 3.76234582 mph!</TD></TR></TABLE>

llmao. hahah yeah u should take out your seatbelt for weight reduction to. mine as well take out the engine. that way your car will be lighter

 

I recently switched to a Mugen tower bar. I have noticed 0 difference. But hey, its a Mugen.

 

OMP for teh win . You can adjust the pre-load which is kinda cool. Mounts to the same bolts for the stocker.

I've had the stock, then Spoon, then the Password 3 point, and now the OMP. Honestly I noticed zero difference.

 

carbing 3 pt front strut ftw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well the more solid the bar the less the shock towers will flex. A 3 point bar adds another mounting point which creates more rigidity. Whether you can feel it or not, maybe. I know I rode around without one for a bit and then put the 3 point on and could feel the difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i knew this point was going to come up, i should have been more specific...as far as the "normal" bars are concerned...

id imagine ones that are solid and dont have a pivot point would be the best...

 

any thoughts on CARBING vs PASSWORD JDM 3 point bars?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the stock one not work compared to others?</TD></TR></TABLE>

works just fine.

but when I was looking for a rear bar there was a sale on a front and rear Mugen package, no split so that's what I went with. My only bling

In all seriousness I don't feel any difference in the front and the rear wasn't much if any, at least not compared to when I installed the rollbar which seems when combined with the rear bar stiffened things up noticably.

 

Spending money on a strut bar is a completely cosmetic decision. The OEM bar does just as good as the rest of them. Until that is, you throw the 3 point bars into the mix.

Also, question - why are the 3 point bars illegal in SCCA racing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOOCH-JDM-ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any thoughts on CARBING vs PASSWORD JDM 3 point bars?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

nifty but not legal for SCCA solo2 at all and that was a concern of mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LunchboxZT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also, question - why are the 3 point bars illegal in SCCA racing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't remember officially why but since it ties into the firewall IE more than 2 points, they're illegal.

 

ridge for front upper bar.

cusco for rear.

 

i have switched from oem to spoon to carbing to j's racing...i actually don't even have my fstb on at this time. never felt a microscopic difference at all

 

OEM front and rear for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 00-0477 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently switched to a Mugen tower bar. I have noticed 0 difference. But hey, its a Mugen. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Mugen parts always make you car lighter because your wallet is empty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ed 341 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Mugen parts always make you car lighter because your wallet is empty. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ed... the crafty one these days. I'm lovin it... that is quotable material there bro