First off, I'm new to the forum, so if this should have gone in the tech forum instead, I apologize... I put it here because it's an Accord

Anyway... I don't do much to my car, and don't know much cars in general. It's just a daily driver...

96 Accord LX 4-door sedan
4 cylinder, non-VTEC
Automatic transmission

Two years ago I had to have my transmission rebuilt at great expense. It had a one-year warranty.

Recently, my car has had a shuddering/low RPM problem when I'm sitting in gear with my foot on the brake, idling in place. This only happens after the car has been driven for 20 or 30 minutes, or if I've simply turned it on and let it idle for a couple hours.

It only happens in drive or reverse. I've taken to slipping it into neutral when I approach stoplights so I can prevent the shakes from happening.

What happens is my RPMs drop too low when idling in drive or reverse. Once the car has been driven and warmed up for 20-30 minutes, at a stop the tachometer will show my RPMs dropping to around 300 RPM, at which point the dash starts shuddering. Occasionally the car will even stall out if I let it continue.

I took it to a shop. They couldn't figure out WTF was wrong. They said they tried all the obvious stuff, and anything else they could think of (I didn't ask them to go into detail). They said they were stumped, and to take it to a transmission shop. They didn't charge me.

The transmission shop seems to think (simply from me describing and them driving it) that I need a new transmission.

Someone I work with mentioned that it could be a sensor or hose problem. They said that there's an RPM sensor near the transmission with a hose attached to it. They said that when you're idling, the sensor detects when your RPMs drop, and tells your engine to raise your RPMs so you don't stall out. He said that the problem might be with the sensor, or the hose.

Is that true? Is that bullshit?

If it's true, what's the name of the sensor and hose?

If it's bullshit.... what do you guys think is going on?

I really appreciate any help you can give me.

 

What a crock!!! LMAO "low idle means new trans" Stay far away from those idiots.
Remove the IACV and see if the screen is plugged up, clean it with Berrymans B-12.
Also a good idea to check the throttle plate and clean it up as well.


in this picture directly above the end of the brush you can see a screw coated with Grey sealer, that is the air adjusment to change the idle speed, backing it out increases idle speed//allows more air

 

I'll check that. My first mechanic may have checked it, though.
I think that transmission shop said that they suspected the torque converter wasn't properly engaging (or something like that), and the only way to fix it was a nice $1900 rebuild.

In any event I appreciate the response, and welcome other suggestions.


Modified by QFT at 8:17 PM 11/27/2006

 

Anyone else?

I should also mention that recently the car felt like it wanted to go while I had my foot on the brake while idling, but I think that quit when my shuddering/low RPM problems got bad.

 

So it idles good in neutral and park?
With no load on the engine and a low idle, id look at the IAC ports and throttle blade. Might even want to try the "BG air induction service".It works well IMO.
If it only idles low when in gear (load) then your problem COULD possibly be in the tranny like something bogging or dragging inside it...
Almost sounds like the torque converter is staying engaged when its not supposed to. Like stalling out a manual tranny car...
if thats the case, Id do a drain and fill on the tranny. Honda trannys are kinda finicky anyways...Have you been changing the tranny fluid since the rebuild?
Good luck!!

 

if torque coverter remains locked car will stall when you came to a stop and stall shortly after starting.

could be problem with eld as car idle should drop when in gear but not to the point where car cannot idle smoothly

 

To answer the questions:

Yes, it idles fine in park and neutral.
The transmission fluid looked fine, but I had it changed anyway just in case. Didn't help.
And what you're saying about the torque converter staying engaged when it's not supposed to.... yep, that's what the transmission guys said they though it was.... which means a rebuild.

I'll try to check on all the other stuff you guys suggested.

Thanks for the good luck wishes, I need them.

 

I have a transmission problem too. I didn't want to start another post so I'm posting here. I also have a 96 Accord LX Automatic. Ok so when I start to drive I take off too slow, and it takes too long to go into 2nd like if it struggles. I changed the transmission fluid about a month ago just to see if it would help but nope nothing. Any suggestions? I was thinking about either getting a new tranny to avoid any problems in the future or doing a Manual conversion.

 

shifting should be delayed when cold...it helps the car warm up.

add a can of lube guard for imports

 

for 1900 dont rebuild it! get another tranny thats in good condition.

If its an idle issue, i doubt its an tranny problem. Also check your maf sensor.

 

i think the best solution is change your transmission with the brand new

 

yeah that shouldnt be a tranny problem.
I reallyyyy doubt this but maybe your EGR ports? I know it doesnt affect your idle much but it follows the, When your car is warmed up thing. I know several other parts do that, but it might help. Since it's such an easy thing that you could do, you might as well (that's if you can do it yourself. http://members.troublecodes.ne...R.htm)
. Clean the EGR Ports.
Eliminate possibilities...

 

Anyone else?

I should also mention that recently the car felt like it wanted to go while I had my foot on the brake while idling, but I think that quit when my shuddering/low RPM problems got bad.

 

Anyone else?

I should also mention that recently the car felt like it wanted to go while I had my foot on the brake while idling, but I think that quit when my shuddering/low RPM problems got bad.

 

Anyone else?

I should also mention that recently the car felt like it wanted to go while I had my foot on the brake while idling, but I think that quit when my shuddering/low RPM problems got bad.

 

Anyone else?

I should also mention that recently the car felt like it wanted to go while I had my foot on the brake while idling, but I think that quit when my shuddering/low RPM problems got bad.

 

It's transmission related, QFT.

 

I am NOT posting all those messages, I don't know why they're reoccuring! I apologize!



Modified by QFT at 9:29 PM 12/8/2006

 

creapy reposting virus....lol

to cheak if its the TQC or the IACV is simple.

Trick one....

At idle after fully warming up, rev the motor with the throttle body by hand. You should hear a click when you let go of it. IF IT has a delay to it try to burp it to force it to click.

then there go's you problem.

Trick two....

Go buy you some LED lights of any color fro autozone,advance auto and so on. Im not too sure where the TQC solenoid is located on your tranny, but mine's was located by the exhaust manifold.

You will need a wire tap in connector and a good ground.There should be two solenoids side by side going up and down. One is for locking and other one is for unlocking the TQC, the thing here we are trying to test if there are working right.

hook two leds black wires to ground and one led tap it in one solenoid wire and the other postive to the other solenoid.

Have some one to shift the gears threw P.R.N.1.2.D3.D4 and see if it locks up or not, this will show you whats happing in real time.


try doing trick one or two before you dish out your big cash.

cost 12 bucks max ...