Will this work? Or will power to the the fuse box from the ALT still exist? Correct? Any suggestions as to what I can do to make it kill the ALT as well?

 

No i think the Alternator has to be on the battery side also, you have to kill all the power to the car.If you kill the battery the Alt will still run the car!

 

this is how mine is setup.. in your picture the fuse box will still get power from the alt when the switch is off

 

Bret then your battery still feeds the fuse box. I thought you need to kill the alternator and the battery or am I wrong in thinking that?

 

sorry i didnt draw it better i have both the alt and the battery into one side of the switch and then on the other side of the switch it goes to the 150amp fuse and up to the fuse box sorry i rretarted

 

 

so I don't need to run a wire from the ALT to the fuse box correct?

how about this?

 

Ugly *** drawing but that works.

That is how mine is set up too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by floored4door &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so I don't need to run a wire from the ALT to the fuse box correct? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. Do it like Bret drew it for the second time....

 

Here is a better drawing of how I have mine done....

 

You need to have both the Batt and the ALT on the switchable side of the Kill switch. In your ver 2 drawing the ALT is still going to feed the fusebox and only going to cut the batt.

 

alright I think it makes sense now. I need a big *** fuse inline for sure tho right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by floored4door &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright I think it makes sense now. I need a big *** fuse inline for sure tho right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup

 

is everyone using 4 gauge? or can you get away with 8?

 

i use 4 gauge

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use 4 gauge</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto.

 

8 is good for about 75a
6 is good for about 105a
4 is good for about 135a
2 is good for about 185a

make your decision based on your max load which most of the time is when you start your car and have lights on at the same time.

 

awesome, thank you

 

the switch I am buying says to run a 10Ga to the alt. Sounds small to me? I was going to use 4 for everything. Should I do that?

 

10 gauge will be a bit small... i would run 4 gauge on all the kill switch wiring

 

You dont have to bother running the heavy gauge alternator wire to the switch, just run the black/yellow 12 gauge wiring going to the 4wire plug to the master cutoff....this'll save a lot of hassle.

 

Dan, I take it this kills the charging circuit?

 

Yes, thats the switched 12v source....basically tells the alternator to turn on, so if you interrupt it then it no workey

 

i used a heavy duty 180 amp starter relay by the battery ran the battery/alt to one side every thing else off the other ran 18 gauge to the kill switch from the battery back to the relay works good on a race car but im not shure about a daily driver with big car stereo and stuff that pulls allot of amps all-so my fuel pump runs strait of the alt with a relay that is only hot when the big relay is hot to keep the voltage up at the pump so now you don't have the weight of all that 4ga

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont have to bother running the heavy gauge alternator wire to the switch, just run the black/yellow 12 gauge wiring going to the 4wire plug to the master cutoff....this'll save a lot of hassle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Has anyone else tried to run it this way? Does it work?