http://www.ellissaw.com/Band-S...rview

The saw is very nice, the mitre head really is a nice feature, but the band saw is very pricey. Also is anyone using these models ?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g0561

A number of companies sell the same kind, but I'm hearing mix reviews.

http://www.ellissaw.com/images/63.gif

 

looks like a nice saw I have been shopping around for a slightly smaller one but for under 1000 I might consider that one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autosport7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like a nice saw I have been shopping around for a slightly smaller one but for under 1000 I might consider that one</TD></TR></TABLE>

They start at 2,700 I believe. The main thing though is, I don't think the mitre head would be able to handle sch10 pipe.

 

Ellis 1600 is the the best saw for the money IMO. Trust me, you'll use the miter head more than you think once you get one.

 

From watching the videos, the design is amazing in the ellis but I'm still not sure it will be able to hold and cut sch10 elbows. The clamping table is amazing.

 

what size is the blade and motor?

 

If its more than 3/4" blade and 1hp motor it will cut elbow no problems. come on why didnt you get a marvel 15a like me it only weighs 7000lbs haha

Edit
Just watched the video

The only downsides I see is that coolant doesnt seem to be an option, not needed buy nice. the other downside its variable speed but uses belts and pulleys which is a pain but im lazy and like to be able to move a lever or switch to adjust speed. third is doesnt appear to be built solid, it looks built well but not like a brick **** house solid gonna last for 50 years kinda thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Howitt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its more than 3/4" blade and 1hp motor it will cut elbow no problems. come on why didnt you get a marvel 15a like me it only weighs 7000lbs haha

Edit
Just watched the video

The only downsides I see is that coolant doesnt seem to be an option, not needed buy nice. the other downside its variable speed but uses belts and pulleys which is a pain but im lazy and like to be able to move a lever or switch to adjust speed. third is doesnt appear to be built solid, it looks built well but not like a brick **** house solid gonna last for 50 years kinda thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are built like a brick **** house.

 

Cutting them is not the issue, its holding them in the while cutting angles.

 

pm and Ill tell you an easier way to hold them in a jig

 

How good are these units
http://images.grizzly.com/griz...1.jpg

 

buy it then tell us ,but I think you should get one like howitt has lol

 

I have the biggest band saw on honda-tech
The pictures hardly do it justice


I bought the fluid for it this week the coolant was $270, $160 for 5 gallons of cleaner and$90 5 gallon concentrate to make 50 gallons
27 Gallons of hydraulic fluid was about $250
I still need to get (8) 1.25" x 8" concrete anchors to bolt it to the floor

 

That thing is a monster to say the least haha.

 

I use that very same Ellis saw every single day and love it... its prolly the most versital machine in our shop...

 

Howitt-
When do we get the pictures of a CRX clamped in that thing?

 

Howitts has ties with the mod, enough said.

 

How much stuff do you cut?

My little HF unit just keeps on truck'n and for less than $200 with a 2 year no hassle exchange warranty I use the living crap out of it. On days I cut collectors it will run for a good 5-6 hours straight. Plus it doesn't take up much space. Converts to verticle, or just buy two and leave one down and one up.
Bi-metal blades can be bought at TSC or Rural King so you can pick them up when ever you need them also.

I'm sure they are no where near the quality, but they do get the job done.

Later
Randy

 

Stainless took a toll, and since there is no bolt to turn the blade.

 

I tried to get you a ellis bandsaw yesterday @ an auction the exact one you posted above sold for $500 bucks. which was more than I was willing to pay but still a deal

 

you need to check the bolts that hold the bearings (blade guide wheels) There is usually at least 2 of them that have an eccentric so you can set the blade thickness clearance once you do that it will cut straight take your time

 

I'm not a fan. These are real common in the hot rod shops around here and I've been less then impressed with blade life and cut squareness when we are forced to use one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFMRC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to check the bolts that hold the bearings (blade guide wheels) There is usually at least 2 of them that have an eccentric so you can set the blade thickness clearance once you do that it will cut straight take your time </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing to adjust the blade like that, the jet one has one though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racing-Solutions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a fan. These are real common in the hot rod shops around here and I've been less then impressed with blade life and cut squareness when we are forced to use one.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which one ? The bigger or the small hf style ? Or the ellis ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nothing to adjust the blade like that, the jet one has one though.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes there is, you can tell by looking at the picture you posted. See how the bolt holding the bearing on is not in center?
You adjust them by loosening the bolt on the front side of the bearing slightly.
Then on the backside of the bearing you use the wrench that came with the saw to rotate the cam till it takes up the space on the blade. This is also how you adjust the saw so that it cut vertically plumb.
The wrench that cam with the saw was really thin to fit in behind the bearing.
If you have lost it you can probably just squeeze the bearing together with pliers and then tighten the retaining bolt. You might have to play with it a bit to get it to cut straight again.
When you switch from a coarse to fine tooth blade you normally have to reasjust.

I might have an extra wrench out in the garage, if you want it shoot me a pm.

Later
Randy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evile140 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes there is, you can tell by looking at the picture you posted. See how the bolt holding the bearing on is not in center?
You adjust them by loosening the bolt on the front side of the bearing slightly.
Then on the backside of the bearing you use the wrench that came with the saw to rotate the cam till it takes up the space on the blade. This is also how you adjust the saw so that it cut vertically plumb.
The wrench that cam with the saw was really thin to fit in behind the bearing.
If you have lost it you can probably just squeeze the bearing together with pliers and then tighten the retaining bolt. You might have to play with it a bit to get it to cut straight again.
When you switch from a coarse to fine tooth blade you normally have to reasjust.

I might have an extra wrench out in the garage, if you want it shoot me a pm.

Later
Randy</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand that, but that does not change the way the blade angles from left to right, that bolt is not there with this saw. The guide bearings are just that, to guide the blade, they are not suppose to angle the blades.