The F20B doesn't have FRM cylinders.

It's bore is 2mm (IIRC) smaller than the H22.

Since it isn't FRM I'm assuming it uses different sleeves than the H22 does and cannot be bored 2mm over safely. Am I correct?

 

For what it's worth PirateMcFred took an 86mm F23 (iron liners) to 87mm to use H-series pistons.

 

Thanks, but I'm asking specifically about the F20B.

 

I know it may or may not be applicable, but I'm no guru

 

Do you know the OD of the liners?

 

im no expert but i was guessing it was the same as the other 85mm F blocks.. if thats the case people have bored em out to 87 before. RSX 86mm pistons are also a possibility.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RSX 86mm pistons are also a possibility.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had wanted to look into using those in an f22 hybrid....good call

OP: you have to know the OD of the sleeve to tell how much you can bore out of it

Maybe try asking machine4321, or some of the accord guys, they do a lot with the f20b

 

just bring it to any machine shop they can help you with that.

 

Before I overbored the F23 iron liners thery were about .080" thick at 86mm bore. I know for a fact that the F22's were thicker at 85mm bore.

To be honest I do not know about the F20B's iron thickness, but if it is a tenth of an inch thick i would say go for it. The worst that could happen is that you have to sleeve it to 89mm

A little off topic but still worth considering. the F20B is just a destroked H22. It has smaller valves and depending on which version you get potentially has smaller TB/cams and inferior valvetrain. For the premium paid for an F20B you can probably source an H22 and pay the difference for some iron liners, offset grind the crank to 88mm stroke and use a shelf B-16/18 long rod and custom compression height forged pistons. I am not sure what your ultimate goal is though. Just saying is all.

Pirate

 

F20B longblock is only $1,300. If it can't be bored 2mm over, then it will just be getting RM H22X cams/VT and an SMSP header.

If it can be bored, it will just get RM rods and custom CP Pistons.

 

f20b has normal iron liners and they are thick enough to bore to 86mm, i wouldnt try 87, imho it'd be too weak, thats why h22's have frm

k pistons may work, i have not had a chance to see how they fit in the chambers of the h22/f20b head.

 

you want an f20b now aquafina?

 

boring to 87mm may be pushing it to its limits...mic it out...

Ins and Outs of the F20B (blue top) from my experience for throwing a unique engine into the bay and keeping it NA and happy with it the way it is 160 whp tops and 140 ft lbs of torque

I wouldn't go this route for any other reason then that of being unique and happy with what it will put out, for a more agressive NA, boost etc, rebuilding purposes...I would stick with the cheaper more powerful big brother jdm h22a (black top) Out of the box if you compared the 2 engines both same bolt ons simple i/h/e the JDM H22A 2.2L bigger more obviously will surpass the F20B (blue top) as much as 20 whp and 15-20 ft lbs of torque. What I thought Honda did was, they used iron liners in the F20B (Blue Top) then the cylinders were thinner coming to the bigger H22A 2.2L and had to use FRM cyl in order to get the strength factor back? correct me if I am wrong...(F20B) has slight more aggressive cams then the JDM H22A) similar to Type S. The valves on the F20B are 1mm smaller then it's big brother H22A...from what I heard the F20B tends to drop valves more often then its big brother...what kinda makes you think of building the F20B is the iron liners...take that away and your still even better off with a bigger good horsepower cheaper JDM H22A...

H22A has decent aftermarket parts/replacement parts out there which F20B doesn't god help you if you spin a bearing bad enough and need to replace the crank/valves etc...or even replacing bearings...crank would be supper rare to find and could easily cost a G...

 

a K20 piston although it has a larger dome, would lower the compression due to the 30mm compression height as opposed to the 31mm of the F20b

are you sure bearings are different from H22's or F22's?

 

Reason for F20B &gt; H22? Shorter stroke. I see it as a BVTEC thats at 2.0L already, and flows better as-is. Not worried about dropping a valve. Stock valvetrain won't be used.

1.000 5th along with a 4.71 FD.

bense...

You do know I have 2 cars, one without an engine...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a K20 piston although it has a larger dome, would lower the compression due to the 30mm compression height as opposed to the 31mm of the F20b

are you sure bearings are different from H22's or F22's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

jdogg is saying that the f20b rod is is a tad longer than 145 and the f20b piston 30mm.


f20b = 55mm mains like a h22a4
with b-series sized rod journals

 

yep... f20b compression height = 1.181inches

 

imo F20b&gt;h22a...in a civic. If i had an accord or a prelude i'd want the extra torque

 

1.181" = 29.9974 okay, maybe it's not quite 30mm

 

well the zeal calculator is wrong again then...it says 31mm

 

honestly i noticed no difference between the 2 as far as trq goes . and that was in my accord . In fact i found the f20b far more responsive

 

so, youve had an H22 and an F20b in your accord?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly i noticed no difference between the 2 as far as trq goes . and that was in my accord . In fact i found the f20b far more responsive </TD></TR></TABLE>

Only makes sense. Less rotating weight so it should be more responsive.

 

more like higher compression = more responsive to higher rpms

 

True. I bet there is a good difference in crank weight though.