i read one thread here before trying to post, but all the pictures had red X's. Just wanted to know the difficulty of replacing a front drivers side wheel bearing. Im going with my brother to his autotech shop, so there will be a press, im just trying to tie up any lose ends before we do this.

1. What parts exactly will i need other than the bearing?

2. What is the likelyhood i will need an actual new hub because i drove it for so long like this. I think ive driven it for 3 or 4 months with it rubbing, and around corners the rubbing is very loud and noticable. Not sure if what im hearing is damaging the hub too...

 

Replacing the entire hub will be easier. As for what you'll need...
socket for axel (32 or 26mm I forgot which)
Sockets to take off the castle nuts and everything on the arm.
New cotter pins.
Ball joint puller.

That should be just about it.

 

I've replaced the bearings more than once.. it's not a difficult job, but it is annoying, and there's a decent amount of room for error. I'd suggest pulling it all apart yourself, and having a shop press the old bearing out, and the new one in.. but go to a shop that has a good rep, if they screw it up, you're going to pay for it. And don't buy the new bearing at autozone for $20, pay $60 at NAPA..

Your hub should be fine.. it takes a lot to damage them.. When you pull the old bearing, take it apart and you'll see what was making all that noise.. those ball bearings won't be spherical anymore..

The quick, dirty, short, easy directions:
Remove the wheel.
Use a hammer/punch to remove the dent from the spindle nut on the end of the axle.
Remove the spindle nut on the end of the axle.
Remove any bolts holding the brake lines to the suspension.
Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the back of the hub (I think you can do this without removing the brake caliper, but it's been a while..) and tie the brake caliper off to the side, you "should not" let it hang by the brake line
Remove the pins from the castle nut on the both ball joints (end of the upper control arm and lower control arm) and remove the castle nuts.
Do the same for the tie rod end.
That's basically it, now you should be able to just pull it all apart.

Though you should know.. the easiest way to remove the axle from the hub is with a cheap tool you can buy at autozone.. it just mounts on the wheel studs and pushes the axle through the back..
Also worth noting.. the ball joint puller can come in very handy, since they tend to be 'frozen' to the control arms.. you can also hit it with a sledge hammer if you can get on it.
Jack up the whole front end of the car, if you don't, the pressure on the other side will cause the front anti-sway bar to hold the wheel up into the wheelwell, making it harder to pull the lower control arm down.
Another thing.. be careful with the axles.. the cv joints have a tendency to pull apart easily, then you'll have another problem. Use a long, strong flatblade screwdriver, or chisel to pop the axle out of the intermediate shaft.. You don't want to pull from the close end of the axle, you need to pull from the far end.