whats the max rpm the b18c5 take
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From: Atlantis
Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (b18 EK9)
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From: Mustafar
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Re: (b18 EK9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18 EK9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive seen that but let me refraze whats the highest you can take up a stock type r motor safely ???</TD></TR></TABLE>
safely or not.. but i've had mine to 9100.. my rev limiter is set at 9k but i hardly ever venture that far..
safely or not.. but i've had mine to 9100.. my rev limiter is set at 9k but i hardly ever venture that far..
Re: (b18 EK9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18 EK9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive seen that but let me refraze whats the highest you can take up a stock type r motor safely ???</TD></TR></TABLE>
why are you so concerned with this?
why are you so concerned with this?
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (b18 EK9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18 EK9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like the title says whats the max rpm you could run on a b18c5 without blowing it up???</TD></TR></TABLE>A friend of mine w/ a built turbo C5 motor rev'd his to 9500 all the time @ the track on the stock valve train but, I just don't think it does any good all motor efficiently w/out alot of motor changes like higher compression pistons, bigger cams,etc.
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From: VeeAyy
Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (HYREV2NR)
Man, to tell you i wouldnt redline that high all up to 8,900rpm-9k (jdm ecu) if thats your daily and not a autocrosing purpose/only vehicle. If you redline that high all the time you'll eventually will wash out those piston rings, no joke man. Shift at 8,600, taking consideration that most cars out dont even redline pass 8k rpms. R motors are good motors and i love it to heart, but if you drag it out like that when you race or just redlining that high the motor will falter in performace.
Patai
Patai
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Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (h8ted ek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h8ted ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man, to tell you i wouldnt redline that high all up to 8,900rpm-9k (jdm ecu) if thats your daily and not a autocrosing purpose/only vehicle. If you redline that high all the time you'll eventually will wash out those piston rings, no joke man. Shift at 8,600, taking consideration that most cars out dont even redline pass 8k rpms. R motors are good motors and i love it to heart, but if you drag it out like that when you race or just redlining that high the motor will falter in performace.
Patai</TD></TR></TABLE>Well the same guy I'm talking about ran a 10.51 @ 148mph 3 weeks ago shifting @ 9K RPM's. I'm not talking about a tipical driven street car.
Patai</TD></TR></TABLE>Well the same guy I'm talking about ran a 10.51 @ 148mph 3 weeks ago shifting @ 9K RPM's. I'm not talking about a tipical driven street car.
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (b18 EK9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18 EK9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like the title says whats the max rpm you could run on a b18c5 without blowing it up???</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that maybe you'd better tell us more about what you have in mind doing with your motor.
With stock valvetrain and Hondata, I used to rev my motor to an indicated 9500 frequently, in order to carry a gear longer to avoid a shift. I'm assuming that an indicated 9500 is more like a real life 9000.
The way that most of us would tune with a B motor ITR and stock valvetrain, the power is going to fall off before that and you'd want to rev that high only to carry a gear to avoid shifting in the middle of a corner or something.
It was the famous cylinder #3 heat problem that took my B motor, not over revving.
I think that maybe you'd better tell us more about what you have in mind doing with your motor.
With stock valvetrain and Hondata, I used to rev my motor to an indicated 9500 frequently, in order to carry a gear longer to avoid a shift. I'm assuming that an indicated 9500 is more like a real life 9000.
The way that most of us would tune with a B motor ITR and stock valvetrain, the power is going to fall off before that and you'd want to rev that high only to carry a gear to avoid shifting in the middle of a corner or something.
It was the famous cylinder #3 heat problem that took my B motor, not over revving.
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Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It was the famous cylinder #3 heat problem that took my B motor, not over revving.</TD></TR></TABLE> Same here. Did a compression test & cyl's 1,2 & 4 were @ 210 lbs. 
#3, 125 lbs. 
The demon of detonation will get U every time! Why is the cyl temp always higher in #3?
It was the famous cylinder #3 heat problem that took my B motor, not over revving.
</TD></TR></TABLE> Same here. Did a compression test & cyl's 1,2 & 4 were @ 210 lbs. #3, 125 lbs. The demon of detonation will get U every time! Why is the cyl temp always higher in #3?
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Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (HYREV2NR)
piston #3 sees more heat because its in the middle.
You gotta keep in mind you that at a certain point, an engine revs so fast it cannot make anymore power, unless it is tuned to do so. Going past redline does nothing good.
You gotta keep in mind you that at a certain point, an engine revs so fast it cannot make anymore power, unless it is tuned to do so. Going past redline does nothing good.
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (HYREV2NR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The demon of detonation will get U every time! Why is the cyl temp always higher in #3?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a cooling deficiency. When the K motors were designed, this was an issue that they were specifically ordered to solve.
At 172 dyno HP out of the box, there's no real problem and the B motor will tool along smoothly for a couple hundred thousand miles.
However, at 200 dyno HP, the issue definitely shows up, especially in cars that are frequently tracked or raced.
The first time I blew my B motor, it was in a state of tune that got 192 dyno HP. Part of the way we got 192 HP with stock cams involved cam gears and a mixture that looked safe, but which simply created too many problems when under load for extended periods at very high temperatures in cylinder 3.
I actually burned through a valve and melted a piston. The car's temperature gauge showed its normal position while this was happening. The coolant that gets near cylinder 3 overheats and can't do a good job, because there isn't enough of it, but it has cooled down again by the time it gets to the water temperature sender and you cannot tell from looking at the OEM gauge that anything is wrong.
Although I can appreciate the opinions of people who only want B motors in their DC2 ITR, the fact is that the K motor was designed to specifically solve this and other problems that B motors can have when pushed beyond the OEM parameters. At 220 HP on the dyno, my K motor doesn't show any signs of any kind of piston or cylinder head heat problem.
Something else I have noticed is that the oil looks visibly different when being changed out of a K motor. Although it's being changed at the same mileage that it would have been changed in the B motor, the oil coming out of the K motor is visibly less burned.
If you are going to push your B motor to 200 dyno HP or beyond, think about extra cooling in order to extend the life of your motor build. An oil cooler would be a very good idea.
There is a cooling deficiency. When the K motors were designed, this was an issue that they were specifically ordered to solve.
At 172 dyno HP out of the box, there's no real problem and the B motor will tool along smoothly for a couple hundred thousand miles.
However, at 200 dyno HP, the issue definitely shows up, especially in cars that are frequently tracked or raced.
The first time I blew my B motor, it was in a state of tune that got 192 dyno HP. Part of the way we got 192 HP with stock cams involved cam gears and a mixture that looked safe, but which simply created too many problems when under load for extended periods at very high temperatures in cylinder 3.
I actually burned through a valve and melted a piston. The car's temperature gauge showed its normal position while this was happening. The coolant that gets near cylinder 3 overheats and can't do a good job, because there isn't enough of it, but it has cooled down again by the time it gets to the water temperature sender and you cannot tell from looking at the OEM gauge that anything is wrong.
Although I can appreciate the opinions of people who only want B motors in their DC2 ITR, the fact is that the K motor was designed to specifically solve this and other problems that B motors can have when pushed beyond the OEM parameters. At 220 HP on the dyno, my K motor doesn't show any signs of any kind of piston or cylinder head heat problem.
Something else I have noticed is that the oil looks visibly different when being changed out of a K motor. Although it's being changed at the same mileage that it would have been changed in the B motor, the oil coming out of the K motor is visibly less burned.
If you are going to push your B motor to 200 dyno HP or beyond, think about extra cooling in order to extend the life of your motor build. An oil cooler would be a very good idea.
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From: Atlantis
Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is a cooling deficiency. When the K motors were designed, this was an issue that they were specifically ordered to solve.
At 172 dyno HP out of the box, there's no real problem and the B motor will tool along smoothly for a couple hundred thousand miles.
However, at 200 dyno HP, the issue definitely shows up, especially in cars that are frequently tracked or raced.
The first time I blew my B motor, it was in a state of tune that got 192 dyno HP. Part of the way we got 192 HP with stock cams involved cam gears and a mixture that looked safe, but which simply created too many problems when under load for extended periods at very high temperatures in cylinder 3.
I actually burned through a valve and melted a piston. The car's temperature gauge showed its normal position while this was happening. The coolant that gets near cylinder 3 overheats and can't do a good job, because there isn't enough of it, but it has cooled down again by the time it gets to the water temperature sender and you cannot tell from looking at the OEM gauge that anything is wrong.
Although I can appreciate the opinions of people who only want B motors in their DC2 ITR, the fact is that the K motor was designed to specifically solve this and other problems that B motors can have when pushed beyond the OEM parameters. At 220 HP on the dyno, my K motor doesn't show any signs of any kind of piston or cylinder head heat problem.
Something else I have noticed is that the oil looks visibly different when being changed out of a K motor. Although it's being changed at the same mileage that it would have been changed in the B motor, the oil coming out of the K motor is visibly less burned.
If you are going to push your B motor to 200 dyno HP or beyond, think about extra cooling in order to extend the life of your motor build. An oil cooler would be a very good idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
GK is spot-on in his post.
The only thing I could add is that when tuning a Bseries for longevity AND power production, you should add a little bit more fuel to cylinder #3... as the heat also causes it to run leaner, which in turn creates more heat. Additional fuel also has cooling properties, so this may also aid in the survivability of the motor under duress.
There is a cooling deficiency. When the K motors were designed, this was an issue that they were specifically ordered to solve.
At 172 dyno HP out of the box, there's no real problem and the B motor will tool along smoothly for a couple hundred thousand miles.
However, at 200 dyno HP, the issue definitely shows up, especially in cars that are frequently tracked or raced.
The first time I blew my B motor, it was in a state of tune that got 192 dyno HP. Part of the way we got 192 HP with stock cams involved cam gears and a mixture that looked safe, but which simply created too many problems when under load for extended periods at very high temperatures in cylinder 3.
I actually burned through a valve and melted a piston. The car's temperature gauge showed its normal position while this was happening. The coolant that gets near cylinder 3 overheats and can't do a good job, because there isn't enough of it, but it has cooled down again by the time it gets to the water temperature sender and you cannot tell from looking at the OEM gauge that anything is wrong.
Although I can appreciate the opinions of people who only want B motors in their DC2 ITR, the fact is that the K motor was designed to specifically solve this and other problems that B motors can have when pushed beyond the OEM parameters. At 220 HP on the dyno, my K motor doesn't show any signs of any kind of piston or cylinder head heat problem.
Something else I have noticed is that the oil looks visibly different when being changed out of a K motor. Although it's being changed at the same mileage that it would have been changed in the B motor, the oil coming out of the K motor is visibly less burned.
If you are going to push your B motor to 200 dyno HP or beyond, think about extra cooling in order to extend the life of your motor build. An oil cooler would be a very good idea.
</TD></TR></TABLE>GK is spot-on in his post.
The only thing I could add is that when tuning a Bseries for longevity AND power production, you should add a little bit more fuel to cylinder #3... as the heat also causes it to run leaner, which in turn creates more heat. Additional fuel also has cooling properties, so this may also aid in the survivability of the motor under duress.
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Re: whats the max rpm the b18c5 take (Black R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing I could add is that when tuning a Bseries for longevity AND power production, you should add a little bit more fuel to cylinder #3... as the heat also causes it to run leaner, which in turn creates more heat. Additional fuel also has cooling properties, so this may also aid in the survivability of the motor under duress. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Individual cylinder trim-Hondata S300 and Crome Pro.
Individual cylinder trim-Hondata S300 and Crome Pro.