Used the snap on digital torque wrench today on the bottom end build up and ended up stripping the number 4 oil squirter hole.

Just a pain to have to retap it and clean the shavings from the oil gallery.

Anyone tried using aluminium putty weld shut the holes?

 

Don't even think of epoxy or al putty.You will need to tap it ,use an insert or heli-coil it.I don't have much love for electronic torque wrenches.Try and stay in the middle of the wrench range.If the range is 10-75#'s you will probably strip a bolt required to torque to 10#'s.

 

you have to keep an eye on the display cause it's easy to go over the torq settings.

 

Yeah there's no click w/ the digital torque wrenches. It just beeps and sometimes that beep just isn't enough for me. You'll notice yourself going over the torque spec.

 

exactly. With the digital wrench, its impossible to torque in one quick swing. I've got to go slow enough and seeing it rise and before you know it, its over the torque spec. Its almost impossible to get exact torque settings.

The electric buzz is not good enough since its still possible to continue increase torque.

so much for an expensive torque wrench.




Modified by Suzukii at 12:22 PM 11/25/2006

 

i had a snap-on electric torque wrench and torqued one head stud and made our guy buy it back its probably the worst tool i ever bought and now i have a matco regular click type and love it

 

i'm gonna sell it right away. not a good piece of tool at all.

 

hey did you get the rest of your money from rmf?????

 

thats also a 3/8 drive thats a big torque wrench for such a small fine thread. i just snug them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suzukii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a pain to have to retap it and clean the shavings from the oil gallery. </TD></TR></TABLE>That hole is a 8mm .75 thread pitch. No one makes that tap. You can run an 1/8 pipe down it and put in an allen plug. Squirters not critical if you are using forged pistons.

 

gsr 1/16 th pipe <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That hole is a 8mm .75 thread pitch. No one makes that tap. You can run an 1/8 pipe down it and put in an allen plug. Squirters not critical if you are using forged pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast is fun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> gsr 1/16 th pipe </TD></TR></TABLE>

That thread is not pipe thread.

Just out of curiosity, what did you torque it to and what is the range on that torque wrench?

 

I usually just hand tighten them,i lost my inch lb torque wrench..
Do what earl said...

 

well, the torque wrench was set at 15nm hardly anything. I'm sure i didnt over torque it to strip it. I never felt much tightness and it stripped.

Anyways i used it on the main bolts while checking clearances and its not good. I won't recommend it to anyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fabman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey did you get the rest of your money from rmf?????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, not yet. He has all sorts of reasons.

 

thats to bad

 

When I did aircraft maintenance in the Air Force we never used a torque wrench in the lower 20% of the torque settings. I know its a little off topic but I cant remember why. I know we or shall I say the rules for our torque wrenches were super critical it seemed. Whenever we checked out a torque wrench from our tool room the wrench was supposed to be cycled through 6 break away cycles on the highest torque setting, the wrench was always left in its container set on 0, it was never supposed to be used in the lower 20% of the settings, it it was dropped it had to be recalibrated before another use, the wrench was never supposed to be used to take losen anything, etc. We also never used a digital torque wrench on anything.

I have a craftsman torque wrench that hasnt been calibrated in years and it seems to work fine. Im a little weary about that since Im not really sure if all those Air Force torque wrench rules were overkill, or if keeping a torque wrench properly calibrated all that stuff is really required?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That hole is a 8mm .75 thread pitch. No one makes that tap. You can run an 1/8 pipe down it and put in an allen plug. Squirters not critical if you are using forged pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>Hey Earl. You can go to Western Tap and get it, I'm sure. They make everything. Won't be cheap, but it can be had. http://www.westerntap.com Go there and get the number. They are the ****.

 

I taped the stripped hole today to 10mm and helicoiled it. The rest of the bolts were taped with 1.25 thread and used normal nuts and some loctite and its done. Note: THe loctite part is different if you're using steel nuts on aluminium, its the blue one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ringgold &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I did aircraft maintenance in the Air Force we never used a torque wrench in the lower 20% of the torque settings. I know its a little off topic but I cant remember why. I know we or shall I say the rules for our torque wrenches were super critical it seemed. Whenever we checked out a torque wrench from our tool room the wrench was supposed to be cycled through 6 break away cycles on the highest torque setting, the wrench was always left in its container set on 0, it was never supposed to be used in the lower 20% of the settings, it it was dropped it had to be recalibrated before another use, the wrench was never supposed to be used to take losen anything, etc. We also never used a digital torque wrench on anything.

I have a craftsman torque wrench that hasnt been calibrated in years and it seems to work fine. Im a little weary about that since Im not really sure if all those Air Force torque wrench rules were overkill, or if keeping a torque wrench properly calibrated all that stuff is really required? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I also am in the military and am a nuclear technician. I deal with and have calibrated several torque wrenches in my time. The rule of thumb is never use a torque wrench in the lower 10% and the upper 10%. You can cal them, but they most ofter are not linear in accuracy and have a bow to their span of use. Your best bet is to get a torque wrench that the accuracy that you need in the center of the wrench usage band.

And to ringgold... there is a reason. It's called personal safety.

I calibrate my personal torque wrenches once a year or if I use it alot twice a year. I do the same with all my micrometers too. Just good practice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suzukii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nope, not yet. He has all sorts of reasons. </TD></TR></TABLE> Why don't you tell him what happened.That he payed Casey $500 of it and was puting the rest on his visa card because you can only take out $500 at a time on paypal.And then Burns stainless charged a bunch of stainless bends to his visa card by mistake and they reversed the charges.But in the mean time the card is locked untill the reversed charges clear.You know that is true so quit talking ****.

 

Thanks, I will give them a try.

 

what up with this guy

 

I had all the electis torque wrench's, i sold the 1/4", im about to sell the other 2 cause its stupid, I think i got excited about the digital crap lol..... Oh well i paid half price anyways

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by need longer days &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Why don't you tell him what happened.That he payed Casey $500 of it and was puting the rest on his visa card because you can only take out $500 at a time on paypal.And then Burns stainless charged a bunch of stainless bends to his visa card by mistake and they reversed the charges.But in the mean time the card is locked untill the reversed charges clear.You know that is true so quit talking ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try telling the bank they are talking **** when you default on mortgage payments and they want to seize your property. You think they will listen to all the bullshit and wait? No matter how true the case is with the visa card problem, he has no reason to drag the payment for 3weeks! This **** has been dragging on since 25th september. Its been a wrong move trusting you randy. All i want is to end this whole ****.

Whoever you are, Randy or not, you are testing my patience here. Its in your best interest to settle this asap. Trust me.