As you can see the title speaks for itself, i'm thinkin of replacing 'em but not sure which i should go for. Also what kind of special tools will i need to this job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jmumblez2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As you can see the title speaks for itself, i'm thinkin of replacing 'em but not sure which i should go for. Also what kind of special tools will i need to this job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

better for what?

for my mom, i think she perfers oem bushing because it's dampen out the vibration

for my racer fans, you might want poly urethrane, energy bushing is great, you'll feel the difference if you have worn out stock softie'

depends what year of accord, you might need a press and torch to get them in.

go to a shop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">better for what?

for my mom, i think she perfers oem bushing because it's dampen out the vibration

for my racer fans, you might want poly urethrane, energy bushing is great, you'll feel the difference if you have worn out stock softie'

depends what year of accord, you might need a press and torch to get them in.

go to a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>

that about covers it i think, polyurethane are great if you are looking for better, firmer handling, at the downside of decreased ride comfort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wingback44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that about covers it i think, polyurethane are great if you are looking for better, firmer handling, at the downside of decreased ride comfort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and it's make funny noise after the grease is dry

 

Tightest control/hardest ride and will be loudest- hard "poly" bushings (Prothane/etc, most about the same type compounds).

Tight control/softer than most aftermarket urethane bushings- "Energy suspension"
Softer than above/not as soft or quiet as OEM, "middle of the road".

As I mentioned on another post, been doing suspensions for 30 years- all in all, I like the ES very much, I am impressed with the product.

Tools-depends on year and model/some will probably require a shop to press out/in (A Helms manual for your car will tell you which will need pressing and explain rebuild process step by step)

Important- Whatever you use, be sure to LUBE bushing/metal or bushing/bushing points per bushing manufacturers specs. Get lazy and don't do it and they will be loud. (The lube will come with the kit)

Also- I highly recommend using a Helms manual for your car and lube all points per suspension rebuild diagrams, even if not mentioned per bushing maker. The lube won't hurt, but you will end up with the absolute least number of squeaks possible.

And for the best job possible, if Helms has a torque-spec for a bushing-point, take the time to torque it- bushings are easy to do, but are designed to be torqued at specific loads. (An example where a Helm's is superior- most of the "cheaper" manuals don't have all the torque-points/specs.)

My Helms recommended the Shin Etsu (for an OEM rebuild)-I used for all points not mentioned per bushing maker (ES)/used the maker's lube where instructed.

Get on your "grub-clothes" and get a lot of shop-towels! Suspension work is not really difficult, but man will you get greasy and dirty! Good luck- Wrenchy

 

thanks a lot wrenchy, i'll look into the ES product maybe polyurethane. The car is a CD7 i'll be workin on and i have a manual describes the car inside and OUT so i hope all goes well.