experience only: Odyssey PC680 slim battery
thinking (well im going to if i hear some GREAT feedback) of getting the odyssey PC680 slim battery with the mount anywhere hold down http://www.odysseybatteries.com/ I NEED to know if anyone has had bad experience with these not lasting/cranking ANYTHING.
This is for an ED7 with soon to be DOHC ZC.
I will be redoing a lot of my wiring during the swap so if thats been an issue just know I can address it!
This is for an ED7 with soon to be DOHC ZC.
I will be redoing a lot of my wiring during the swap so if thats been an issue just know I can address it!
I own one, I got the metal sleeve around it because I located it down near the radiator. I have not had a problem with mine as long as you start your car up frequently. Frequently as in.. once a week I would say.
From my experience.
If you drain them, they are hard(er) to recharge and it really kills the battery life compared to normal batteries.
If you drain them, they are hard(er) to recharge and it really kills the battery life compared to normal batteries.
I have it in my car. All the old farts I associate with said It wouldn't start my motor (2L 12-1 comp) but it does no problem at all.
Even this past week, car is outside and it dips below 0 deg (celcius), I maybe start it every 2-3 days and it still works fine.
Even this past week, car is outside and it dips below 0 deg (celcius), I maybe start it every 2-3 days and it still works fine.
I've got the teeny tiny one. It's been fine so far even after letting the car sit for a month in the cold.
Heard good feedback from the old fart tech inspector at the track as well.
Heard good feedback from the old fart tech inspector at the track as well.
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I love mine, never had any problems with it. On the CRX it fits perfectly in the cargo box (don't bother buying the mounting bracket for this). My friend has one in his CRX and it sat for almost two months before we swapped the new motor in, and it starts fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From my experience.
If you drain them, they are hard(er) to recharge and it really kills the battery life compared to normal batteries.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine gave me hell when I drained it one night, I still have it but I no longer use it. They're good batteries until they die.
If you drain them, they are hard(er) to recharge and it really kills the battery life compared to normal batteries.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine gave me hell when I drained it one night, I still have it but I no longer use it. They're good batteries until they die.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love mine, never had any problems with it. On the CRX it fits perfectly in the cargo box (don't bother buying the mounting bracket for this). My friend has one in his CRX and it sat for almost two months before we swapped the new motor in, and it starts fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cargo box is the best battery box
Cargo box is the best battery box
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really amazing how many Northern folks have success with these batteries.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are the Texans having any luck?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Are the Texans having any luck?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are the Texans having any luck?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same luck people have with installing H22a into CRXs. It will never happen
Are the Texans having any luck?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same luck people have with installing H22a into CRXs. It will never happen
Looks like the PC680 is the one: http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html
PC585 is just a little bit smaller.
PC585 is just a little bit smaller.
Just throwing this out there... The battery, mounted in the cargo box "shouldn't" pass a tech inspection at any track, since it's not mounted solidly to the chassis. Plus, have fun jumping the car when you drain the battery.
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Same luck people have with installing H22a into CRXs. It will never happen</TD></TR></TABLE>
they're too heavy.
Same luck people have with installing H22a into CRXs. It will never happen</TD></TR></TABLE>
they're too heavy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMkrew_1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just throwing this out there... The battery, mounted in the cargo box "shouldn't" pass a tech inspection at any track, since it's not mounted solidly to the chassis. Plus, have fun jumping the car when you drain the battery.
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-</TD></TR></TABLE>
those are some good points.
I passed tech with my box.. the bracket goes through the box and spare tire well. it's solid as a rock.. but you're right, it "shouldn't" pass.. probably a good idea to talk to your local 'tech' guy before taking the chance. if you compete, than it's best to follow the rules by the book.
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-</TD></TR></TABLE>
those are some good points.
I passed tech with my box.. the bracket goes through the box and spare tire well. it's solid as a rock.. but you're right, it "shouldn't" pass.. probably a good idea to talk to your local 'tech' guy before taking the chance. if you compete, than it's best to follow the rules by the book.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMkrew_1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just throwing this out there... The battery, mounted in the cargo box "shouldn't" pass a tech inspection at any track, since it's not mounted solidly to the chassis. Plus, have fun jumping the car when you drain the battery.
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you just toss it in the box, yeah it won't pass. It's not that hard to make a bracket for it there to mount it solidly. I've jumped my car and my friend's car with relocated batteries, it's not difficult at all.
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you just toss it in the box, yeah it won't pass. It's not that hard to make a bracket for it there to mount it solidly. I've jumped my car and my friend's car with relocated batteries, it's not difficult at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMkrew_1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just throwing this out there... The battery, mounted in the cargo box "shouldn't" pass a tech inspection at any track, since it's not mounted solidly to the chassis. Plus, have fun jumping the car when you drain the battery.
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good points, it works fine in the the original battery spot and frees up enough room for a whale ***** etc. Go to Home Depot and grab some 1" aluminum and plasti-dip™ and make a new tie down for it....
See my teeny battery in the HUEG PICTQR!!!!
You'll also have to have a battery kill switch on the rear of the car, which further increases the cost. More cable than you think... at least 4 gauge cable going to and from the switch, which could be 20+ feet of cable.
Just some things to consider when deciding where the battery location will be in your own vehicle.
-josh-</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good points, it works fine in the the original battery spot and frees up enough room for a whale ***** etc. Go to Home Depot and grab some 1" aluminum and plasti-dip™ and make a new tie down for it....
See my teeny battery in the HUEG PICTQR!!!!




