ITR blowing smoke and burning oil bad
I just recently swapped my GSR with a JDM ITR swap. One day i was cruising with a buddy and he's like "dude when you get on it you blow a ton of smoke (black smoke)". well i blew it off just atributed it to having no cat.
well at about 2000 miles i check my dip stick and the stick is bone dry. i added some oil and it took nearly 2 1/2 quarts of oil until it was where it needed to be on the stick. after that i drained the oil and did a full change. 2 days later i was hanging out with the same friend and he tells me no smoke.
a local friend of mine (legit itr owner) tells me that at about 1500 miles his car will start burning some oil. he says he burns right around 1/2 quart between 1500-2000 miles. he tells me its fairly normal to start burning at about 1500.
but should i go through 2 1/2 quarts after only 2000 miles? what are the chances after leting it run that low on oil that i might have messed something up internally?
well at about 2000 miles i check my dip stick and the stick is bone dry. i added some oil and it took nearly 2 1/2 quarts of oil until it was where it needed to be on the stick. after that i drained the oil and did a full change. 2 days later i was hanging out with the same friend and he tells me no smoke.
a local friend of mine (legit itr owner) tells me that at about 1500 miles his car will start burning some oil. he says he burns right around 1/2 quart between 1500-2000 miles. he tells me its fairly normal to start burning at about 1500.
but should i go through 2 1/2 quarts after only 2000 miles? what are the chances after leting it run that low on oil that i might have messed something up internally?
I have the same problem, maybe not as excessive but I'm burning oil. I know a lot of other R owners have this problem too, so you're not alone. I went to acura to have it checked and they said that 1/2 to 1 quart every 1000 - 1500 miles is normal. Although I'm not completley sure about that, its what they said. So just keep an eye on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 43! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My last ITR burned/shot oil out the back because worn/bad valve seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how can i find out if i got worn valve seals? would a compression test tell me that?
how can i find out if i got worn valve seals? would a compression test tell me that?
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my friends itr blows smoke my other friends itr blows smoke some guy on the 5 freeway in his itr was blowing black smoke .... i think every ITR BLOWS BLACK SMOKE !!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RED_90TEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think every ITR BLOWS BLACK SMOKE !! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm.. No.
As for the oil situation,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are the chances after leting it run that low on oil that i might have messed something up internally</TD></TR></TABLE>
This happened to my ITR when I first got her. After about 2,500 Miles I checked the stick and it was bone dry. I filled her up and she was fine, just check the stick every 500 / 1k miles and keep the oil level up and you'll be fine.
No oil on the dip stick is one thing, oil light being on is another.
If your oil light ever comes on, shut the car off immediatly and pull over!!
Umm.. No.
As for the oil situation,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are the chances after leting it run that low on oil that i might have messed something up internally</TD></TR></TABLE>
This happened to my ITR when I first got her. After about 2,500 Miles I checked the stick and it was bone dry. I filled her up and she was fine, just check the stick every 500 / 1k miles and keep the oil level up and you'll be fine.
No oil on the dip stick is one thing, oil light being on is another.
If your oil light ever comes on, shut the car off immediatly and pull over!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LunchboxZT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No oil on the dip stick is one thing, oil light being on is another.
If your oil light ever comes on, shut the car off immediatly and pull over!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
well ive never had the light come on. so thats good to know.
If your oil light ever comes on, shut the car off immediatly and pull over!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
well ive never had the light come on. so thats good to know.
dude how hard were you driving it to? you had just gotten it....I know I woulda been ripping around town having a bit of fun for the first few days.
you'd be surprised how much oil you can burn hitting vtec and 8400 rpms 20 times a day. Most ITR's at a 300 mile track event might burn close to 2 quarts I would think. I might be wrong, but I wouldn't worry too much.
Drive 1000 easy and see how it looks then report back man. In the mean time your engine sounds fine. You can do a leak down test to pretty much rule out piston rings if you'd like. Valve seals (maybe bent guide) are easy to replace if you have a little know how....dont freak until you drive it more!
you'd be surprised how much oil you can burn hitting vtec and 8400 rpms 20 times a day. Most ITR's at a 300 mile track event might burn close to 2 quarts I would think. I might be wrong, but I wouldn't worry too much.
Drive 1000 easy and see how it looks then report back man. In the mean time your engine sounds fine. You can do a leak down test to pretty much rule out piston rings if you'd like. Valve seals (maybe bent guide) are easy to replace if you have a little know how....dont freak until you drive it more!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how can i find out if i got worn valve seals? would a compression test tell me that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe a leak down test would.
how can i find out if i got worn valve seals? would a compression test tell me that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe a leak down test would.
I have the same problem, and yes, I drive the Hell out of my R. Now, I'm not talking about 8,000RPM burnouts, or anything ridiculous, just driving her how she's meant to be driven. 
The first two weeks I had the R, I realized how closely I had to watch the oil level... When I didn't hit VTEC when getting on it once, haha. From then on, I've been meticulous with checking the oil. And what I read above seems correct with my situation as well, the level stays fine until about 1,500 miles, then it starts to burn a bit. So I just change it every 2,500.
I blow quite a bit of black smoke (No catalytic converter, no resonator, pretty much straight through... Sounds a lot better than you'd think, haha), but I've never seen any blue, nor have any of my friends driving behind me told me of any blue smoke. So I figure it's not an issue, I'm just burning the oil in VTEC... Which is activated quite often, so I'm not worried.

The first two weeks I had the R, I realized how closely I had to watch the oil level... When I didn't hit VTEC when getting on it once, haha. From then on, I've been meticulous with checking the oil. And what I read above seems correct with my situation as well, the level stays fine until about 1,500 miles, then it starts to burn a bit. So I just change it every 2,500.
I blow quite a bit of black smoke (No catalytic converter, no resonator, pretty much straight through... Sounds a lot better than you'd think, haha), but I've never seen any blue, nor have any of my friends driving behind me told me of any blue smoke. So I figure it's not an issue, I'm just burning the oil in VTEC... Which is activated quite often, so I'm not worried.
ive actually had this motor for a while and ive always changed it at about 2000 miles. ive never stoped and checked my oil level prior to a change like i did this time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudgetBalla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what type of oil are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
every oil change consists of Mobil1 10w30 w/ HAMP filter and new Honda Genuine Tranny(yes i change the tranny every 2000 im **** like that lol).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudgetBalla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what type of oil are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
every oil change consists of Mobil1 10w30 w/ HAMP filter and new Honda Genuine Tranny(yes i change the tranny every 2000 im **** like that lol).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Changing the Transmission fluid every 2,000 Miles is pointless, save your money!</TD></TR></TABLE>
After a track event....miles and high rpm's you should flush your trans and engine and put fresh oils in....this will make sure all additives have not burned off.
You must be talking about show queens.......or you don't know what you are talking about because your engine and trans get hot after a weekend of HPDE's or Racing.
After a track event....miles and high rpm's you should flush your trans and engine and put fresh oils in....this will make sure all additives have not burned off.
You must be talking about show queens.......or you don't know what you are talking about because your engine and trans get hot after a weekend of HPDE's or Racing.
Did he mention running an HPDE event? Or running ANY track events? Nope.
So let's assume he drives this car daily, in traffic, stop and go, and gets on it maybe a dozen times a day or so... Do you REALLY think his Transmission is getting that hot, that the fluid needs to be changed every 2,000 miles?
So let's assume he drives this car daily, in traffic, stop and go, and gets on it maybe a dozen times a day or so... Do you REALLY think his Transmission is getting that hot, that the fluid needs to be changed every 2,000 miles?
yea...not having a cat and racing the **** out of it is the reason. are you using synthetic? if not i suggest using it and don't race the **** out of it so much. i know going from a gsr motor to a jdm motor may be exciting, but thats the only solution.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 43! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I believe a leak down test would. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No a leak down test would not but you might have a chance of seeing it with a vacuum guage.
I believe a leak down test would. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No a leak down test would not but you might have a chance of seeing it with a vacuum guage.
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