I just bought a 90 Civic Dx with a b16a motor (1st gen I believe since its running an OBDO pr3 ecu) and it has a problem starting

The first 2 tries itll pretty much just keep cranking, then maybe it will kick over run for 1/2 second then die, try again and itll run for 4 seconds, rumble then die, and again til it finally stays running on maybe the 6-10th try

Also if it does start running for a second and I touch the gas, itll kill it instantly

I havent had time to diagnose or really go over anything mechanical on the car yet But Im hoping this is an easy fix as I want the car to be my daily driver after I get finished with the body work in a few days

The only thing I noticed that is definetely wrong. There is a sensor on the left side of the head (passenger side) under the distributor and closest the the front of the car. Its a gold fitting screwing into the block, probably supposed to have wires connected to it (theres a few wires by the tranny taped together that I think dont lead anywhere). So I dont know what that sensor is yet but that could be causing it I suppose


The car doesnt have a tach so I dont know what RPM im revving to and Ive never had a Vtec motor before but I dont think vtec is working either. The car has a bad wheel bearing that I need to get fixed before I really beat on it.

Im hoping I can still pass emissions
Any help is appreciated

Thanks for any help

 

 

that sensor is your coolant temp sensor, goes to your ecu, also check your tps, a friend of mine who does alot of b16 installs had one do this and the tps was off. make sure its at .5 volts with the ignition in the on position but car off. try that.

 

can it be unplugged from the tps and I just stick the probe in the red wire slot?

I'll check it out

Also, for the coolant temp sensor, why does my gauge still work then? Does ti cause any problems?

 

you have a sensor for the ecu, and a temp sensor. guage on your dash goes off temp sensor, the other sends a signal to the ecu, to let it know when its warm, about checkin the tps, not sure, i check mine with my vafc, but you can try that with a volt meter, good luck man

 

You have to test the TPS with it still plugged in stick a needle (or the sharp tip of the probe) into the wire then the other to ground.

Another way to do it is push a paper clip or something along the wire, past the rubber boot, and into the back of where the pin is. Just push it in until it makes contact with the inside of the connector.

 

 

Is your ecu blinking anything? It will blink after you give it a few cranks. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be my map sensor.

 

No cels

This morning on a very cold 0* start, I was able to crank it for about 3 seconds and it kicked over and I pinned the gas and it kept going after I held it at about 2500 for about 10 seconds

 

I would get that coolant temp sensor hooked up first, because this is probably causing your car to run way too rich and thats why it dies when you give it gas. I had the exact situation on my B18a.

 

Well Ive got an etest booked for friday, do you really think its doing anything when the car is fully warm?

I plan on driving and heating the **** out of the car before the test

I tried to start it a bit ago and it took 3 tries

Im going to swap the spark plugs (which looked a little white actually) and check the TPS voltage in a few minutes after I weld a patch in the exhaust

 

I TRIED to check TPS voltage but was unsucessful

I used the middle red wire to take my reading from (pretty sure thats right) and with the ignition kicked over I wasnt getting any reading, had a beautiful piece of spliced wire to touch but no reading, so I turned the car ON and took a reading and was getting fluxuating results that were just kinda scatterred

So whats up with that

 

http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/tps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I TRIED to check TPS voltage but was unsucessful

I used the middle red wire to take my reading </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Well the car does run and runs rather well once it gets going

So I dont think I would have any swapped sensors now would I?

The tps does seem to be reaching all the way over from the dirvers side of the intake manifold though, unlike my d16a6 where it comes out of the harness at the passenger side of the intake manifold.

Could it be swapped with something else in the bay? or would the car not run at all then?

 

 

bump

 

Ive hear of people that sometimes get the TPS and MAP plugs mixed up... you could check that out.

 

I dont even think the car would start at that point

 

When my friend's CRX's TPS was messed up, it ran fine with it d/c much to my suprise allthough it ran way better when we put in the new tps. Maybe your tps is just bad (with the reading fluctuating etc). Now thinking about it your problems sound kinda like what his were.

 

I also found that the check engine light was burned out/ swapped and Im throwing a stored code 6 and code 14