well i know the search thing, i did but i didnt seem to find what i am looking for exactly.

I can get a H22 for a pretty decent price but it will come with an auto tranny. since i will then be on the hunt for a gearbox and stuff. i was thinking maybe i should go H2B. After searching here i noticed most cars have a spaced hood, and after checking Quarter Sports they say that spacing will need to be done. But looking through some pages here on Honda-Tech i see that some guys say they have a H2B setup with the the hood sitting normal.
I would like to know if it is possible to have the hood sit in the normal position ?
Also on the Quarter sport site they dont list the price, how much does it go for?
Is it worth it to go H2B ?

Also who makes good after market cams for the H22?

 

you gotta lift up the hood in the back....trust me.... h2b kit is 880 shipped u believe

skunk 2 makes cams, crower, brian crower, jun....lots of good choices

 

H 2 B

 

We now make an H/F2B that is a direct bolt in for the EG chassis that does not require and spacers for the hood: hood closes like factory, with factory looks, finishes and tolerances. The most advanced adapter plate kit on the market! PM or give us a call for more details.

 

make one for a 5th gen prelude

somehow.........

 

i just baught my h2b from quartersports for 750 shipped!, as far as hood clearance it should required spacing in the back as posted above, i will let yall know on teh progress

 

kit is in, all im waiting for to drop in the motor is manual timing belt tensioner for h23, motor will be going in next week

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1806590

 

here's a pic of my hood with the QSD h2b kit

 

Evolution Industries produces a H2B kit that will allow you to fully close your hood, run both lower and upper timing belt covers, and you will not need to modify your drivers side frame rail at all. In order to do this you will need to make sure that you run a firewall mounted MAP sensor, run a custom explicit speed alternator bracket ($75), and have the power steering machined from your crank pulley ($30-50). If you have any questions about the swap just let me know.

 

is there any pics of the evolution industries kit in a eg?

 

Wow. A lot of new kits on the market now. And they're letting the hood close!

If I wasn't going boost, I'd be all over an H2B...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Bull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow. A lot of new kits on the market now. And they're letting the hood close!

If I wasn't going boost, I'd be all over an H2B...</TD></TR></TABLE>

and it will only get better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Evolution Industries produces a H2B kit that will allow you to fully close your hood, run both lower and upper timing belt covers, and you will not need to modify your drivers side frame rail at all. In order to do this you will need to make sure that you run a firewall mounted MAP sensor, run a custom explicit speed alternator bracket ($75), and have the power steering machined from your crank pulley ($30-50). If you have any questions about the swap just let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but is the axle problem still resolved?

 

can anybody do this swap the h2b? for how much?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SaYjAiBaO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but is the axle problem still resolved?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The H2B swap is not plagued by axle problems like a normal H22 swap. The axles sit like a regular B series swap and there is no binding at all.

 

I read somewhere that you had to shave the back of the block and reseal it with hondabond for the intermediate shaft to clear is this true? it seems like a lot of fab work is involved hmmmmmm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Initial Dizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read somewhere that you had to shave the back of the block and reseal it with hondabond for the intermediate shaft to clear is this true? it seems like a lot of fab work is involved hmmmmmm. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The block does need to be shaved but it is very minor. There is still plenty of meat left for the oilpan to seal to the block and there is no need for Hondabond.


Intermediate Shaft:
I was actually suprised by how little needs to be shaved from the engine block. Still plenty of meat left for the oil pan gasket.

Before


After

 

yeah thats a lot less the the QSD kit, trust me, i had to shave a lot more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bisimoto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We now make an H/F2B that is a direct bolt in for the EG chassis that does not require and spacers for the hood: hood closes like factory, with factory looks, finishes and tolerances. The most advanced adapter plate kit on the market! PM or give us a call for more details.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is definately the kit you want to go with. No clearence issues and the kit comes with mounts and everything. You can tell the difference in the R & D too versus other kits. More time spent on this one. Thanks again Bisi for your time and knowledge. Can't wait to start her up.