Ok, some time ago I asked what the problem with my car was, every few days when I drove it it felt like there was a limiter on it, and it wouldnt let me revv past 3.5k rpms, it felt as if I was downshifting and engine braking. Every now and then though, the car will run fine, but those now and thens are far and few in between.

Someone here said it was my ignitor, so I took it off, assuming that was my ignitor, I took it to autozone today, they ran a diagnosis on it, and said it is good, any other suggestions??? Here's my "ignitor" and here's the area of the distributor I took it out of.....any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

so, no ideas? My car just sits right now, pondering what the next step is.

 

How man, could be the coil. Are you getting a check light? If so find out what the code it. It should like it has to be something electric to that will through a check light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How man, could be the coil. Are you getting a check light? If so find out what the code it. It should like it has to be something electric to that will through a check light.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I've never gotten a check engine light. Does the ECU still throw a code even if my dash doesnt show an check engine light or something?

 

Is this car a stick or auto? What yr is the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this car a stick or auto? What yr is the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's a 91 manual crx si

 

ok cool, go to the passenger side of the car. Pull the carpet back and you should see the acss panel for the ECU, there is a light on the panel. Turn the key on but don't turn the car on. Count the number of flashes you get. Keep your eye on it, there could be more them one code. if you have a code 5 then it will blink 5 timed them stop the go to another code if there is one. check it out and LMK

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok cool, go to the passenger side of the car. Pull the carpet back and you should see the acss panel for the ECU, there is a light on the panel. Turn the key on but don't turn the car on. Count the number of flashes you get. Keep your eye on it, there could be more them one code. if you have a code 5 then it will blink 5 timed them stop the go to another code if there is one. check it out and LMK</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, I'll go look, I've never undone the carpet, so I hope it's not a pain.

 

no it's pretty easy, here are the codes if this helps.

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System

 

ok, I got 15 quick blinks, then a pause, and it starts again, I'll take a look at what code 15 is, unless you already know?

 

oh, you alreayd posted them lol, Ingition Output Signal

I dont know what that is

 

disconect your neg batery for ten seconds start the car then check for the code again.

 

u are getting the code 15 because u have the ignitor out of the car already! put it back in and try it again and see if it gives you a code

 

here some other help, and yeah put that back lol sorry

0: ECU
check the ECU electrical connector. if no loose connectors are found, have the ECU diagnosed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

1: Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

2: Oxygen Sensor "B"
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

3: MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

4: CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

5: MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping

6: ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

7: TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

8: TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

9: CYP Sensor (Cylinder #1 Position)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

10: IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

12: EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
check the hoses, the EGR valve lift sensor and the System EGR valve.

13: BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

14: IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

15: Ignition Output Signal
missing or defective ignition output signal

16: Fuel Injector System
defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector

17: VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

19: Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve
defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve

20: Electrical Load Detector
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

21: VTEC Solenoid Valve
defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve

22: VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch

23: KS (Knock Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

30: Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

31: Automatic Transmission Signal "B"
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

41: Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater
check the heater for the proper voltage signal.

43: Fuel Supply System
check the fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator. check the oxygen sensor. also, check for vacuum leaks.

45: System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems

48: LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

54: CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

58: TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

61: Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

63: Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

65: Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary)
malfunctioning or defective oxygen sensor heater

67: Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold
malfunctioning or defective catalyst system

70: Automatic Transmission
malfunction with the automatic transmission controls

71: Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

72: Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

73: Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

74: Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

75: Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

76: Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

80: Exhaust Gas Recirculation
insufficient flow detected

86: ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
circuit range / performance problem

90: Evaporative Emission Control System
leak detected in the fuel tank area

91: Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
low input

92: Evaporative Emission Control System
insufficient purge flow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuybotom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u are getting the code 15 because u have the ignitor out of the car already! put it back in and try it again and see if it gives you a code</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, ok I will do that. I dont have to put the whole distributor back in though, right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">disconect your neg batery for ten seconds start the car then check for the code again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That will require me to put the whole distributor back in, I can just put it on the switch before start, no?

 

But it does not seem like you are going to get another code anyway. Maybe this could be a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) problum? But I guess you would be getting a code on that too. Umm i'll keep checking around for you man. Check your coil for fun. You may not get a code till it does it.


And just put it back together.

 

ECU

 

ok, I put the ignitor back in, just imagine I put it back where the little cables are loose up in the pictures I posted. I got code 15 again, does that mean I have to put the whole distributor back together and bolt it up? because all the cables are hooked up, it's just not bolted down.

You think it's bad anyway, or could it be a different piece in the distributor system?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But it does not seem like you are going to get another code anyway. Maybe this could be a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) problum? But I guess you would be getting a code on that too. Umm i'll keep checking around for you man. Check your coil for fun. You may not get a code till it does it.


And just put it back together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the guy at autozone said it could have something to do with my TPS, is that just the cable on the accelerator, or something else? I'll check that.

 

wen u put the dizzy back together did u disconnect the battery for 10sec to remove your code 15? then reconnect and check for codes. also check to see if u have a brunt out light or even a light at all in your check engine slot in ur gauge cluster

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roterx7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wen u put the dizzy back together did u disconnect the battery for 10sec to remove your code 15? then reconnect and check for codes. also check to see if u have a brunt out light or even a light at all in your check engine slot in ur gauge cluster</TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent done that yet, I just got done putting the dizzy back on and going for gas, my car ran out of gas while idling

I'll disconnect it now to check.

 

ok, well the code isnt there anymore, now that I disconnected the battery, and I started it up and all, and it revved past 4k, so I guess the next step is to check it out on the street under normal driving, and see if the problem returns.

Thanks to all the ones that helped me

 

It could still be the ignitor I have seen them act up only when warm. so the test at the parts place could be worthless if not at operating temp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could still be the ignitor I have seen them act up only when warm. so the test at the parts place could be worthless if not at operating temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought the same thing, so I was skeptical, though I already went for a drive in it, I went to get gas, then I hopped on the freeway, went to buy pizza, etc. So I turned off the car at the gas station and pizza place, ordinarily each time I turned it off and back on I was taking a chance with the car either running ok or having that limiter problem, 9 times out of 10 I'd have that problem. Earlier while testing it out it ran perfect. I'm suspecting that perhaps there was a bad connection with the wires before, at least I'm hoping that is what the case was, because my car is running great.

edit: and no codes popped up either. I'll put the carpet back on tomorrow, I'm wondering if I should cut a little hole in the carpet so I can see the little light when I need to instead of having to lift up the carpet each time. Good idea or bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sLcREX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought the same thing, so I was skeptical, though I already went for a drive in it, I went to get gas, then I hopped on the freeway, went to buy pizza, etc. So I turned off the car at the gas station and pizza place, ordinarily each time I turned it off and back on I was taking a chance with the car either running ok or having that limiter problem, 9 times out of 10 I'd have that problem. Earlier while testing it out it ran perfect. I'm suspecting that perhaps there was a bad connection with the wires before, at least I'm hoping that is what the case was, because my car is running great. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good to hear