this is a new area,

I am having some trouble getting my stupid VW to shift 4th around 8000 RPM, some guys suggest a twin disk clutch....

I am all for it, I'm just curious how it makes it easier

thanks for any good answers to my stupid question

Pat

 

find out if its a bad synchro or a shifting mechanism first.

to answer your qustion yes a twin disk does help out greatly. with alot of power the friction disk likes to stick due to excessive heat/torque when disengaging the clutch between shifts which prevents the input shaft from stoping/slowing down. With a twin disk you have two friction plates and intermediate plates that can get rid of the heat much more efficiently, when disengaging the friction plates do not stick- the input shaft stops, making it much more easier for the synchronizers to do their job engaging a gear.

 

I have a twin disc and my tranny, seems like its just smoother.

 

generally a twin disk clutch has smaller diameter/lighter disks which result in a lower MOI for hte overall setup which make the job of the syncros to slow the main shaft alot easier

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">generally a twin disk clutch has smaller diameter/lighter disks which result in a lower MOI for hte overall setup which make the job of the syncros to slow the main shaft alot easier</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep and along with that you reduce your pedal travel by half, after you install a bump stop. Makes shifting quicker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexmyrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to answer your qustion yes a twin disk does help out greatly. with alot of power the friction disk likes to stick due to excessive heat/torque when disengaging the clutch between shifts which prevents the input shaft from stoping/slowing down. With a twin disk you have two friction plates and intermediate plates that can get rid of the heat much more efficiently, when disengaging the friction plates do not stick- the input shaft stops, making it much more easier for the synchronizers to do their job engaging a gear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">generally a twin disk clutch has smaller diameter/lighter disks which result in a lower MOI for hte overall setup which make the job of the syncros to slow the main shaft alot easier</TD></TR></TABLE>

Combine these 2 posts and you got your answer...

 

i was just wondering how much power can the stock DC5 clutch handle under daily driving and occasional (once a week) racing?? rite now im at about 225 hp

 

great info, thanks guys

 

I blew my transmission from a single disc clutch at high rpm . when you shift at 10 k they dont let go and its like your slamming the gear in without pressing the clutch and it ***** up the sleeve sets hardcore.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM.K20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was just wondering how much power can the stock DC5 clutch handle under daily driving and occasional (once a week) racing?? rite now im at about 225 hp</TD></TR></TABLE>

you will be fine man,i was making 400hp for about 2months on a stock clutch on my k swap and numerous track runs on slicks and i even made 500hp on it and it held on the street fine.d@nny can vouch for this i have since changed it out because its is still a stock clutch and can only take so much....