PIc REqUesT....strut bars..
im trying to put strut bars on my 91 ex...any one have pics of how its sopose to look pluss how do u adjust them..ther only 2 nuts at the end of the sides..to me they look like tightening nuts..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they really only go on one way. If its one of the "generic bars", you put on the mounts tighten them down then put the bar in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Give us a pic of your bar and we will tell you.
Give us a pic of your bar and we will tell you.
no flaming on the dirty motor...lol...its been a cuple of days of rain....soo i do have to jack the car up....any other info would be helpfull..EDIT...gonna take the red paint off them b4 they go on...
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What's the question?? You already have the mounts on the car...look like they've been on there for quite some time. You can put the bar on as is or jack it up and put it on (tighten it with both front wheels off the ground). Whichever you wish to do, I don't know that jacking it up to install on a bar like that would make a difference or not.
Like mentioned before, to get a better effect from your bars, jack the car up and get BOTH wheels off the ground. Thread that portion with the hole into the bar itself, then bolt bar to the mount, repeat for other side EXCEPT, before you bolt to mount, thread both sides in enough to have the bar as tight as possible between both mounts, the bolt to remaining mount. Once that is done, snug the nut on the threaded portion to the bar.
Drop car enjoy.
Drop car enjoy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its adjustable, i'd jack up on side of the car, tighten it, then lower the car back down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You can put the bar on as is or jack it up and put it on (tighten it with both front wheels off the ground). Whichever you wish to do, I don't know that jacking it up to install on a bar like that would make a difference or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this suggestion of tightening it while one side is up in the air, or both or whatever
is bunk, in my thoughtful opinion. its a strut bar, it doesnt function as a spring.
the point is to stiffen the chassis. it will do this regardless of "preload". its a
structural member that is meant to carry a load path and hold the chassis together
better. putting any extra initial stress only brings it closer to fatigue and failure.
if you need to jack one side up or whatever to help install it, fine. thats different
than assuming you get some performance benefit from doing that.
and edit your goddam pictures so we dont have to scroll so far to read.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You can put the bar on as is or jack it up and put it on (tighten it with both front wheels off the ground). Whichever you wish to do, I don't know that jacking it up to install on a bar like that would make a difference or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this suggestion of tightening it while one side is up in the air, or both or whatever
is bunk, in my thoughtful opinion. its a strut bar, it doesnt function as a spring.
the point is to stiffen the chassis. it will do this regardless of "preload". its a
structural member that is meant to carry a load path and hold the chassis together
better. putting any extra initial stress only brings it closer to fatigue and failure.
if you need to jack one side up or whatever to help install it, fine. thats different
than assuming you get some performance benefit from doing that.
and edit your goddam pictures so we dont have to scroll so far to read.
My suggestion from jacking it up comes from owning the Neuspeed bar...which doesn't go on unless the car is jacked up. That's why I said I don't know if it will benefit or not on a bar like that.
yeah, the neuspeed bar is so well made, its hard to fit on. wasnt clear on why you
said it, thats why i put my disclaimer.
however, ive found the problem, at least with the TWO neuspeed bars ive owned,
is not simply the distance across from hole to hole, but the distance from the hole
to hole between the same top hat studs. for that you just need to pull the arms
apart a bit to spread them out to match. took me a while to figure out that that
was the real problem. and just tighten one side down with one thread, then work
the other side. i can do it while its fully on the ground now, but i know what you
mean.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hell, that just the way i always did it.
same way i installed my autopower too. was i wrong? </TD></TR></TABLE>
youre only wrong in thinking it was of any benefit.
said it, thats why i put my disclaimer.
however, ive found the problem, at least with the TWO neuspeed bars ive owned,
is not simply the distance across from hole to hole, but the distance from the hole
to hole between the same top hat studs. for that you just need to pull the arms
apart a bit to spread them out to match. took me a while to figure out that that
was the real problem. and just tighten one side down with one thread, then work
the other side. i can do it while its fully on the ground now, but i know what you
mean.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hell, that just the way i always did it.
same way i installed my autopower too. was i wrong? </TD></TR></TABLE>
youre only wrong in thinking it was of any benefit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
youre only wrong in thinking it was of any benefit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe you're right. but im sure thats the way they weld in cages... i just wanted to fit in.
youre only wrong in thinking it was of any benefit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe you're right. but im sure thats the way they weld in cages... i just wanted to fit in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you're right. but im sure thats the way they weld in cages... i just wanted to fit in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
some cage builders are misguided too. doesnt make them right. and most cage
builders i know dont do that anyway.
</TD></TR></TABLE>some cage builders are misguided too. doesnt make them right. and most cage
builders i know dont do that anyway.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some cage builders are misguided too. doesnt make them right. and most cage
builders i know dont do that anyway.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I actually make my upper charge pipe into 2 pieces because of the new speed bar. 1 piece and I'd have to pull the bar off to get the charge pipe off...so I just keep the pipe 2 now for ease.
As for jacking it up, I just finished turboing a 00 Si where I had to jack his up to get the OE bar back on...weird because I usually put them on sitting on the ground, but not this one, the holes were off quite a bit.
builders i know dont do that anyway.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I actually make my upper charge pipe into 2 pieces because of the new speed bar. 1 piece and I'd have to pull the bar off to get the charge pipe off...so I just keep the pipe 2 now for ease.
As for jacking it up, I just finished turboing a 00 Si where I had to jack his up to get the OE bar back on...weird because I usually put them on sitting on the ground, but not this one, the holes were off quite a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
some cage builders are misguided too. doesnt make them right. and most cage
builders i know dont do that anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even further off, but interesting that it came up. I ws reading thru the Competition Engineering instructions yesturday and they say to put the car on stands. But I don't recall seeing that in the Autopower instructions. (I just read random instructions for reference sometimes...go figure)
some cage builders are misguided too. doesnt make them right. and most cage
builders i know dont do that anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even further off, but interesting that it came up. I ws reading thru the Competition Engineering instructions yesturday and they say to put the car on stands. But I don't recall seeing that in the Autopower instructions. (I just read random instructions for reference sometimes...go figure)
Adjustable Preload
A very common error when installing tower bars, It is always recommended to raise the vehicle when installing so that the load of the shock uppermounts on the shock towers is relieved and balanced out. When raised, and the tower bar is placed onto the vehicle, the preload can be adjusted and set. After it is bolted on and the car is lowered, each shock tower will have equal load and will prevent independent movements of each shock. This will provide an extremely noticeable difference after installing. If a tower bar is installed on a car that is not raised, great benefits will be missed.
A very common error when installing tower bars, It is always recommended to raise the vehicle when installing so that the load of the shock uppermounts on the shock towers is relieved and balanced out. When raised, and the tower bar is placed onto the vehicle, the preload can be adjusted and set. After it is bolted on and the car is lowered, each shock tower will have equal load and will prevent independent movements of each shock. This will provide an extremely noticeable difference after installing. If a tower bar is installed on a car that is not raised, great benefits will be missed.
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