How many of you LS/Vtec guys are revving past 7k without rod bolts? How long did it last or is it still going strong?

 

I put togethor a basic lsvtec stock bloc. Revved to 8 whenever i got on it some times 8500, and it had revved on a miss shift to 88??

Drove it for about 10k sold the car and then that kid drove it for 3 months then it was stolen i am pretty certain its still out there. B

But i would go ahead and change rod bolts and head bolts. Its not hard and worth the head ache of did i break something or not. while at the track.

 

I take it to 8k on occasion...just seeing if anyone did it regularly and has had any problems from it

 

u guys would konw what ur talking about because uve done the LS/V combo urselves but ive read that a stock LS/V, u shouldnt go past 7930 rpm because anything after that u risk engine dmg..

but u guys are talking from experience.
im just putting in the info ive read about

 

ARP rod bolts are cheap and will make high rpms shift not a problem

I took my old block to 9k a few times and never had a problem, mostly consistant 8400 rpm redline shifts, spun up there like a champ and felt smooth as a stock ITR

 

anyone know the difference between the high performance and the pro? Im assuming on eis for GSR and the other is for LS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speed94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know the difference between the high performance and the pro? Im assuming on eis for GSR and the other is for LS</TD></TR></TABLE> high performance and pro what?

 

when i was gettin my car tuned my tuner, (which knows exactly what he was doing) took it way past 8 several times with no problem even though i told him that a dident know what the compession was or what internals i was using because i dident build it. Till this day no leaks or no engine damage but i don't take it past 8 and baby it most of the time

 

arp rod bolts...there are two different ones for our cars and Im assuming one is for the GSR(9mm) and one for the others (8mm)

 

mine lasted 3 mounths on a stock block reving to 8k until i spun a bearing(damm i miss my car)..get the rod bolts and bearings its worth it

 

you need the LS/B20 8mm rod bolts

 

Anyone know if I can change them with just taking off the oil pan?

 

took mine to 8400 rpms like it was nothing(bone stock ls block with a bone stock gsr head). i had that engine for about 6 months until it was stolen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speed94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know if I can change them with just taking off the oil pan?</TD></TR></TABLE>
def would like to know this i plan on doin it rite the next time

 

When you change the rod bolts to ARP, it is standard practice to resize the large end of the rod. This would require pulling the rod out of the engine, meaning the head would have to come off. If your going thru all this effort, might as well upgrade the pistons to P30's if you haven't already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you change the rod bolts to ARP, it is standard practice to resize the large end of the rod. This would require pulling the rod out of the engine, meaning the head would have to come off. If your going thru all this effort, might as well upgrade the pistons to P30's if you haven't already.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very true, as for the ARP rod bolts, the holes for them need to be resized as well to fit the larger rod bolts

 

ahh....oh well. Guess I have to wait for my engine build then lol