Here are some pics of some of my welds done with a 180sd at about 70-80 or so amps. The balance was set at about 7 in the first 2 pics, and then at like 4 in the last pic. any suggestions?

 

most important thing with aluminum is to clean it , clean it , clean it you cant stress that enoff on aluminum , also the a/c balance when I had my 180sd I kept it on the green line wich I assumed was like a good all around setting to have it on, what tungsten are you using ???

 

Clean the material better. Welding is 75% setup and 25% welding.

Clean material, proper fitment, no gaps, proper tungsten, correct filler (size & material), etc. are are all very critical things that if you don't have before you weld then you're not going to get a good weld.

 

i was using 3/32 green tungsten, usually use the red, but anyways. how do u guys reccomend to clean the aluminum? I tried a part with a ss wire bursh, and then wiped it down with acetone.

 

I usually just wipe it down with acetone unless it is visbly dirty

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr.NAPIER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I usually just wipe it down with acetone unless it is visbly dirty</TD></TR></TABLE>

any other tips?

 

you are way too hot - your beads are flat and wide with no definition to the spots where you dabbed filler. Too hot makes it more liquidy so it flows out leaving no ridges - you don't "need" the ridges, but they help indicate the amount of heat used. Are the backsides gray and scabby (melting through with no argon on the backside causes it to oxidize, making an oxide "scab")?

practice, practice, practice on getting the right heat first

 

no, the welds didnt go through to the other side

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hermsfab.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

any other tips?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I some times use a wizzer wheel on realy dirty stuff , and then I use what ever is handy , like acetone or lacquer thinner some times even prep all , lol but yes prep is key , I use 1/16" red or 3/32" red tungsten with a slight ball on it ,

 

how do u get the ball on it?

 

reverse polarity d/c ,

 

I just sharpen mine and have at it. It ***** itself.

 

I was able to do aluminum fine on a Dynasty 200 without a ball on it, just sharpened up. Make sure you have a wire brush for aluminum only too.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1809456

read some.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was able to do aluminum fine on a Dynasty 200 without a ball on it, just sharpened up. Make sure you have a wire brush for aluminum only too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How does that work out for you with a point on it ??? I have found it is to focused in a small area , what settings are you on seeing you are using a inverter also ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How does that work out for you with a point on it ??? I have found it is to focused in a small area , what settings are you on seeing you are using a inverter also ??</TD></TR></TABLE>


dynasty are inverter machines, you dont want to ball up the tungsten on AL for interter machines

 

as stated above... your way too hot... back it down some...
try cleaning it but after letting it soak in hot water... Aluminum is porish (spelling) so the "inside" can be dirty up and comes up as it heats up from the welding.
your travel speed might be a tad too slow....

i dont shapen my tungsten i just sqaure off the end then just take down the edges like a pyramid with the top cut off...

 

It could be that he is running too hot, but if you look at the Cathodic Etching, it looks like the AC wave on his machine is set to 80%dc+, 20%dc-. If your machine is adjustable, increase the dc- side.

Or the tungsten is dirty. If the tip gets contaminated, the aluminum travels all the way up the tungsten to the collet. you have to grind all of that off, not just the tip. If it is dirty, it will cause the bubbles in the weld bead.

As some people have mentioned, the hip should be round, not pointed for alum. AC waves like round tips, DC waves like sharp tips.

Looking good nonetheless

 

as others have seid already you need to clean the stuff your welding and with a al olny brush. and you way to you you need to start you alittle hot and then back of when the pudle gets started, a new rige should form every time you dab the filler if not your going to slow or your way to hot.

ps sorry about the shity spelling i know i suck

-alex

 

don't ball up on your dynastys...or you'll blow em up!

Ask Miller

 

I mean in no way to be a ***** by asking this but, if you run a 'fab' business and offer aluminum welding on your site, shouldn't you be capable of it?

 

Im not the only one that welds....but I can weld aluminum, not great, but it gets the job done anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hermsfab.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not the only one that welds....but I can weld aluminum, not great, but it gets the job done anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotcha. Good luck w/ the learning process.

 

It looks like you are using 4043 filler rod, which gives you a flat-looking weld with less definition. You also see what looks like "sand" in the weld, again from the 4043.

Try to get your hands on some 5356 rod and you'll see a huge difference in weld appearance. While 4043 is the correct rod to be using, it's a more difficult to learn on IMO. You won't get a nice "stack of dimes" bead with 4043 unless you are welding thicker aluminum, such as 1/8" and up ...

Looks good to me, just work on your consistency and regularity, and you should be up and running in no time! Remember, it's all about the rhythm!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agtronic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It looks like you are using 4043 filler rod, which gives you a flat-looking weld with less definition. You also see what looks like "sand" in the weld, again from the 4043.

Try to get your hands on some 5356 rod and you'll see a huge difference in weld appearance. While 4043 is the correct rod to be using, it's a more difficult to learn on IMO. You won't get a nice "stack of dimes" bead with 4043 unless you are welding thicker aluminum, such as 1/8" and up ...

Looks good to me, just work on your consistency and regularity, and you should be up and running in no time! Remember, it's all about the rhythm! </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the tips, I went out and picked up some 5356 rods. ill give it a try tomorrow.