back when i had my R, i was running mugen 26mm front and rear sway bars with Spoon N1 coils. I had the 16k springs up front and the 14k in the rear.

i loved the setup, but when i removed the spoon coilovers to sell them, i noticed that on top of the strut where the bolts held the coilover in (where the front strut bar is), the bolts on both sides where pushed up a little.

sorry for lack of pics, but what i mean to say is....

the actual frame of the car where the coilovers bolt into was dented up on either side. It looked like the coilovers being as stiff as they were might of been damaging the car on bumps?

has anyone else had this happen? i dont know what that area is called, but the area where the coils and strut bar connect, was dented up where the coilover bolts where on both sides.

im trying to compare the R to another car, before i get into another one and im weighing all the pros and cons, because the next car is going to have a very aggressive suspension setup

 

I have heard of street/track cars runnning stiff suspension getting windshield cracks from the constant jolts to the car.

 

The ITR was beefed up in certain areas of the chassis to prevent such things from happening. BUt I don't think any production car could stand constant pounding of an aggressive aftermarket suspension unless other modifications are made to it.

If any of them would, the ITR would certainly be on that list of ones that can withstand abuse.

Just to play it safe, why not run some soft-sidewall tires to absorb some of the impact?

 

16/14k isnt that aggressive, i have N1's 14/12 (F/R) and when set on reasonably soft there is a load of give in the shock/spring on bumps. I think the area your referring to is called the shock tower.

 

16/14 really isn't "too" aggressive.

What kind of strut bar did you have? Stock one that mounted slight off the shock tower? Or aftermarket one (like Spoon) that mount right on top of the shock tower?

 

my ek had tokico hp's and skunk2 sleeves with skunk2 upper control arms, it did that too. i think its more about shock travel and if its going to be banging up in the well. ride height will make the difference too. it pushed through the top hard, now while my bay is being shaved that will be fixed and apexi n1's will be thrown on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.OB*GYN_Rhett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...with skunk2 upper control arms... </TD></TR></TABLE>

If those were the control arms that had the adjustment on the top, it is no surprise they dimpled or even damaged your shock towers. Those things are crap IMO. Any decent bump and they were making contact with the shock towers.

But, the OP is speaking of the shock tophat actually doing damage, I believe.

 

This is something I was asking about when I was looking into spring rates. Of course, the rates I'm looking at are closer to 7k-9k.

Did the damage caues any fitment issues when installing new parts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If those were the control arms that had the adjustment on the top, it is no surprise they dimpled or even damaged your shock towers. Those things are crap IMO. Any decent bump and they were making contact with the shock towers.

But, the OP is speaking of the shock tophat actually doing damage, I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i figured the uca's was the cause, havent seen the towers in a whle and now thinking it was four holes on each, explaing the uca being the cause.

 

i was running the stock tower bars in the front.

it was just mugen sways and spoon n1's

i had the spoons on the 3 of 5 damper setting and 16/14 springs

the car was dropped a good amount, but not slammed

it was dropped so that the front tires were barely tucked, the front lip was about 4-5 inches from the ground.

im sure people have seen my old R with the volk ce28ns and the ride height.

when i installed my Bilsteins and H&R springs back on, when selling the car, the fitment was just life before.

Dev, who had the car before man ran JIC coils and the car was very very low

But not sure why that area was dented up on both sides...

 

if the shock was bottoming out it would transmit all of that force directly to the upper shock mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ... the car was dropped a good amount, but not slammed ...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think this and the lack of adequate shock travel (esp. hitting a few good bumps/potholes) were more the cause than the actual rates or type of dampers.

I'm thinking of going with either some 14/16 or 14/18's soon on some PIC dampers (w/ Mugen front and A-Spec rear bars).

Also while replacing the front USTB with a 3-pt. JDMPassport and a Passport rear (Mugen style).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SecretAgent &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the shock was bottoming out it would transmit all of that force directly to the upper shock mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's a good point too

 

16/14 isnt too agressive...but it all depends no how good the roads in ur city are