I just did it about five minutes ago. the install went smoothly. put everything back on right. I start the car and let it warm up. I go inside for a cold one and when I walk back outside it sounds fine, and then nothing. it just shut off. The wires are all on correctly, i tightened everything down. What could be the problem???

 

Check for spark, check for fuel. Do u have any cels when trying to crank then engine over? Check to make sure the spark plug wires are tightly on the cap, sometime they can come slightly off causing the engine to misfire then turn off then not wan to turn back on.

 

How do I check for spark. I know its a dumb question. no CEL's, im going outside to check if all the wires are secure

 

took off cap, checked everything out, everything looks good. put cap back on. unplugged each wire seperately and plugged it back in. started car, wont turn over

 

Well, its obvious that if everything is secured, that the parts you installed are to blame. Though I have never purchased a bad rotor, I would think that could be your culprit. Put the old stuff back on.

 

ok, just replaced old parts with the new ones. went to start it up, NOTHING!!! so now i no somethign else is wrong. heres a quick question. I had to crank it a quarter turn inorder to expose the screw so I could remove the rotor. Do I have to set it back to the same position before I put the cap back on? Also, whats the firing diagram so i can double check my sht.

 

no you dont have to set it back to the position it was before.If your standing at the passenger side fender...the plug wire on the bottom left of the cap goes to the number one cylinder. bottom right is number 2 top left is number 3 and top right is number 4. the number one cylinder is the furthest from the distributor.number 2 is second furthest from the distributor..number 4 is the closest to the cap.If it started and ran fine then that isnt your problem.. my guess is either the coil or the ignitor i had this problem 2 weeks ago on my B20, i had to replace the ignitor,coil,cap and rotor button.

 

FUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK i just checked for spark out of my number 1 and 2 plugs and nothing. Well if it was my coil and ignitor, y would it happen now? it was running so therefore im a little baffled why it would stop and not start up again. im just trying to throw every possibility out there of what could have went wrong. My wires were tangled up, would that have to do with anything. i no it prolly doesnt but nothing else points to the solution.

 

Just buy an NSX. This is obviously a sign from god.

 

yes it is, i should just buy one, but i love my car too much.

 

ohh heres a question, would an LS OBD1 dizzy fit my OBD2 gsr???

 

fit yes, work no

i also beleive the obd1 distributors had an extra 2 wire plug at the dizzy - obd2 motors had the crank angle sensor down by the crank. not to mention you're also comparing vtec and non-vtec

 

yeah i no, it was just a hunch. im just gonna order one from the distributor king. the name reminds me of tommy boy. haha but none the less at least they have a lifetime warranty

 

I would buy a factory manual before I bought a new dizzy. Everytime I have had troubles with distributors it always ended up being something fairly simple that I could have taken care of much more cheaply.

If you follow the diagnostic steps in the manual, you will at least be able to find out what is at fault even if you do end up having to replace it. Learn all you can about it while you're having the problems now, it'll help you later! Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh heres a question, would an LS OBD1 dizzy fit my OBD2 gsr???</TD></TR></TABLE>
No and obd1 dizzy has and obd2 dizzy has different sensors, obd2 engines have CYP sensor in the engine while obd1 has it in the dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No and obd1 dizzy has and obd2 dizzy has different sensors, obd2 engines have CYP sensor in the engine while obd1 has it in the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i kinda figured that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .::Lee::. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would buy a factory manual before I bought a new dizzy. Everytime I have had troubles with distributors it always ended up being something fairly simple that I could have taken care of much more cheaply.

If you follow the diagnostic steps in the manual, you will at least be able to find out what is at fault even if you do end up having to replace it. Learn all you can about it while you're having the problems now, it'll help you later! Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thanks for the advice lee, went to advance and they were all out for my car. ill try the other shop in town. But on a brighter note I bought my turbo setup so my project will begin.

 

i did a tune up on my ls not too long ago with cap n rotor..and my ignition coil went out too..took me a long time to figure out wat it was..lol..so that might be ur problem

 

yeah well im gonna try and diagnose the problem this weekend. if it is just the coil where can I get one, acura or should i go to advance?

 

i got my coil from autozone...lol..100 bucks

 

well did you take the whole dizzy off to work on it? it could be off timming. did you put all 3 bolts back in? ive seen a dizzy rock while it turns

 

i had the same thing happen to me. i did the regular tune-up and i went to start my car and it bogged down then wouldn't start again. my car's issue was with the ignitor. i replaced the coil and still nothing, so i replaced the ignitor and it started right up.

i don't know if you can get the ignitor from advanced or autozone. i had to go strait to acura. it cost around $280 or something like that, it was a couple of years ago.

 

take cap off dizzy and see if rotor turns when you roll engine over. you might have broken a timing belt , it happens.

 

if it cranks or turnover, but doesn't start up. could be your ICM. inside your dist. the bottom right piece!

 

when it happend to me, i replaced the ignition control module first,it was 78$ i had no luck so i replaced the cap and rotor button,together they cost 15$ and then i tried the coil which was 110$ and that was my problem,but i have heard that a bad coil can cause your icm to go bad and it also works the other way.

 

It's 99% eather ur coil or ignitor, don't buy them from autozone or some auto store or even the dealership, they charge WAY too much. I got a coil off of ebay for 20 bucks that was brand new and worked perfectly and still is.