I need to put front rotors on my 01 Accord, they're scored and warped and I don't want to cut them because thinner rotors just warp easier. The dealer wants $100 a piece for them, that's a bit steep for stock rotors.

What are some good replacement rotors? I want to stay with the stock calipers, and I don't need cross drilled or slotted. If there's something better than the stuff they sell at Pep Boys I'd be willing to try it.

 

brembo blanks are decent. depends how much you are willing to spend as well. I put powerslot slotted on mine and love them, i can use stock calipers (you can with brembo blanks as well) and the rotors are pretty beefy and perform well.

 

Brembo blanks

I used them on my 95 Accord EX and plan to use them again on my next Accord.

 

Brembo makes street versions of their high quality rotors, not drilled or slotted. There are other good brands. The discount auto parts chains sometimes display a high/higher quality rotor that can be special ordered. Bendix brand comes to mind.

 

go with the brembo blanks...you love them

 

i have Powerslot Slotted and Dimpled and i love them too.. however arent the slot vanes suppose to be pointing outward so the air passes through them as you drive??? because if so i think i put them on backwards lol... but they are good rotors.. and they only cost me i think like 90 a rotor.. and very good for price

 

By Brembo blanks to you mean the stuff Brembo calls "OE Replacement?". If so that looks to be the way to go, I don't need slotted or cross drilled for this car.

What are some reliable places to get them at a good price? Do any of the auto parts chains carry them?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1411597 thats all u need

 

try thepartsbin.com or drivewire.com. I have Brembo blanks on my 4th gen and I love them! I'm about to replace the rotors on my WRX soon so I will be getting myself a set of Brembo blanks for good measure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OldMrAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By Brembo blanks to you mean the stuff Brembo calls "OE Replacement?".</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, I believe that is what Brembo calls them. Just plane faced rotors, no slots or holes.

 

Got to reply here. How much for OEM?

I have to say outside of performance (slotted/drilled for extreme heat conditions) I have never, ever seen a blank rotor as good as the Honda OEM's, at least for my car (1994). Maybe Honda is buiyng cheaper rotors now?

I checked all the specs, and finally went OEM rotors. My originals, which had 105,000 miles, still ran true, and had only been cut once. They ran about the same as the Brembo blanks.

Check majestichonda.com (same as hondaautomotive.com), the best OEM supplier I have ever used. I paid (48$??) for my OEM rotors.

Buy Brembo if you like, but I have to question anyone makes better OEM "blank" rotors than Honda. (I have been working on my Accord since 1994, and, except when I gamble for performance parts, I always buy OEM honda parts- I have found them to be the very best you can buy, and I have never had a problem with a part. Same with my Avalon- Toyota OEM (internet) parts are very, very good.

And tell your tire-shop (or the dealer) to STOP using an impact-wrench to tighten your lugs after the tires are removed!!! Your car is way too young to have warped rotors- use of impact wrenches to tighten lugs (instead of a torque-wrench) is the #1 reason rotors get warped in the first place (not an opinion-numerous studies have shown this, some dome by the tire/wheel industry).

When they rotate my tires, I watch and make sure they hand-torque the lugs!! This can be easy to do- have the "writer" inspect the rims and note on the ticket he sees "zero damage to rims." Then let him know if the car returns with ANY damage from an impact wrench they WILL be replacing the rims. (Works for me-my tire store guy knows me (balances/rotates, etc) and KNOWS they WILL be paying to replace my rims! (Tech's generally don't give a damn. "Screw it, get it done fast).

Just some advice- I have seen some real screwd up messes from a tech "skipping" a socket down the face of an expensive rim.

 

well, Honda doesn't make there rotors, they buy from a supplier. So the actual brand of rotor may change from time to time but that doesn't mean the quality will.

Also the length of how long your rotors last also depends on the maintenance of the car and what pads are being used. Some pads are harsher on the rotors than others which decreases the life of the rotor.

I'm not saying OEM is better than Brembo or that Brembo is better than OEM, just saying that sometimes there is more to consider than just the manufacturer.

As for warping rotors, I wouldn't exactly say impact wrenches cause the warping. They can contribute to it by not torquing evenly. Unevenly torqued lug nuts is what hurts you. Whether it's by hand or by an impact, though an impact would probably makes things worse. I always use a torque wrench. And I agree with you, if I take my car in for service on the tires, I make sure they note to not use an impact on the lug nuts. They don't usually like it but I don't care. I also double check the air pressure before I leave. Once I had 32psi in the front tires and 53-54 in the back tires. The car felt real loose in the back.

 

Brembo blanks.

Brembo blanks + Hawk HPS + ATE Super BLue =

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drivinaway367 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1411597 thats all u need </TD></TR></TABLE>

holy shyt dats a good deal. im getting myself a set

 

brembo blanks sound like your best bet.

 

ummm rotora is good. im getting my drilled slotted this week

 

If you car is a dd then oem replacement kind of rotors are all you need. anything other then that is kinda of pointless...imO. BREMBO BLANKS!

 

Yeah, harsh pads will eat rotors (or hard braking), but won't warp them. I hand-torque the lugs on my rims, and have never, ever warped a rotor.

This is a thing to really watch for if you have a mid 90's- the whole damned steering knuckle has to be pulled to change the rotors, a real pain, and expensive as hell if you pay to get it done. Why I replaced with OEM's at 105,000. The first set proved their worth, and I wasn't going to gamble all the ##$%^& labor and headaches on an aftermarket disc. I am a very good mechanic, but the design is a real pain in the butt.

I always thought this was a LOUSY design by Honda-one of the very few I have ever found on my 1994. I don't work on the later Accords-some feedback here, I have been wondering if Honda change this design in later models??

The hardest rotor change of ANY car I have ever owned-and I have owned a lot of cars in my life. I always suspected Honda did it so you would pay to have the rotors replaced, instead of just popping some bolts and throwing new ones on. Or force you to go to a dealer to have them turned on the car. To do it RIGHT (to last) takes some time. I could change the rotors on my Avalon in 30 minutes-these were a dirty, long job

Like I said, watch the "tire-monkeys"- they are the ones who ruin rotors (not a bad deal for tire-shops-then they get to replace them!!)

 

I never said hand-torquing lug nuts is bad. I said unevenly torquing lug nuts, whether by hand or impact wrench, is bad.

It's not always necessary to remove the entire knuckle. In some cases it is but not always. As long as you can remove the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing and the bearing/rotor/hub assembly comes away from the knuckle, you can replace the rotor without removing the entire knuckle, of course you would need to pop the lower balljoint to remove the axle to get to the four bolts holding the bearing. Now on cars that see road salts and such, they tend to be pretty rusty, and thats where problems start to happen. On my 95 EX, I had to remove the entire knuckle because nothing I did could get that damn bearing out of the knuckle. It was really rusted in there. So I had to have a shop press it out. Cleaned up the hole and greased it before putting the new bearing in so that next time I hopefully wouldn't have that problem again.

The hub-over-rotor design is a PITA design. It is on 90-97 Accords. You can convert that hub-over-rotor setup to an easier rotor-over-hub with OEM parts from Acura if you wish. You can either use your stock calipers and just get new bearings, hubs and rotors or you can upgrade to an 11" rotor and get AV6 calipers/Legend 2 piston calipers, I know there are other calipers you can use but I can't think of them right now. I plan to do this on my next Accord when it needs a brake job.