Upper Control Arm Hitting Strut Tower
Im running tein HA's on a 92 eg with new ucas and a camber correction kit all around..
the car is not overly low its about 1 finger easy gap all the way front and back with good camber..
when i changed my oil today i noticed 2 dents on the strut towers where the upper control arm had impacted.. i dont remember any banging noises and i didnt think my car was that low to cause this to happen couppled with the stiff suspension..
any suggestions other than the common (raise it up a bit) that can help stopping this from happening again?
the dents are not big but they are noticeable.
the car is not overly low its about 1 finger easy gap all the way front and back with good camber..
when i changed my oil today i noticed 2 dents on the strut towers where the upper control arm had impacted.. i dont remember any banging noises and i didnt think my car was that low to cause this to happen couppled with the stiff suspension..
any suggestions other than the common (raise it up a bit) that can help stopping this from happening again?
the dents are not big but they are noticeable.
What spring rates do those have? I had the same problem with my 2000 GSR and ended up raising it up a bit...oh well. Sorry other than stiffer springs I don't know of a solution other than raising it.
If you'd rather not raise it up, you can try replacing the hex screws with some regular flathead screws. Then, it won't be the screws hitting the tower, but maybe the actual arm striking somewhere else on the tower. Best bet is to raise it up, anytime an impact is made it will hurt handling and the balljoint.
what kind of camber kit do you have? did you replace the arm with an aftermarket type, or are you using an OEM arm with spc balljoint?
im using an intrax camber kit that moves the entire arm in or out from the mounting point on the inside of the strut tower, would more or less camber affect it at all im running very close to stock spec my tires are almost stright up.
how are people running tucked tires and im 1 finger gap and denting haha..
how are people running tucked tires and im 1 finger gap and denting haha..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goldegg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running tein HA's on a 92 eg with new ucas and a camber correction kit all around..
the car is not overly low its about 1 finger easy gap all the way front and back with good camber..
when i changed my oil today i noticed 2 dents on the strut towers where the upper control arm had impacted.. i dont remember any banging noises and i didnt think my car was that low to cause this to happen couppled with the stiff suspension..
any suggestions other than the common (raise it up a bit) that can help stopping this from happening again?
the dents are not big but they are noticeable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remove the camber kit. Thats the best way to get your suspension travel back. I ran tucking tire for a little bit, with the stock UCAs, and never hit the UCAs. When I swapped out to SPC UCAs, I had to raise the car up to a 2 finger gap, because the UCA kept hitting the inner fender, same spring rates.
Replacement UCAs are taller than stock, because of the sliding plate. This puts the upper ball join higher than stock, which reduces available suspension travel. If you don't need to dial in exact camber for race purposes, just remove the kit entirely and run the stock arms.
the car is not overly low its about 1 finger easy gap all the way front and back with good camber..
when i changed my oil today i noticed 2 dents on the strut towers where the upper control arm had impacted.. i dont remember any banging noises and i didnt think my car was that low to cause this to happen couppled with the stiff suspension..
any suggestions other than the common (raise it up a bit) that can help stopping this from happening again?
the dents are not big but they are noticeable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remove the camber kit. Thats the best way to get your suspension travel back. I ran tucking tire for a little bit, with the stock UCAs, and never hit the UCAs. When I swapped out to SPC UCAs, I had to raise the car up to a 2 finger gap, because the UCA kept hitting the inner fender, same spring rates.
Replacement UCAs are taller than stock, because of the sliding plate. This puts the upper ball join higher than stock, which reduces available suspension travel. If you don't need to dial in exact camber for race purposes, just remove the kit entirely and run the stock arms.
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