I recently had the head built up on my h22a. I had KMS (stock sized)valves/springs/retainers installed. The guy who did the headwork had no mention of a valve job for the new springs, is this essential? I believe he used a valve grinding stick/paste.

Any advice would be great

Thanks

 

its not absolutely essential, but is a VERY good idea to do a valve job. What he probably did is lap the new valves in with grinding compound. Valve job gives you a better seating surface for the new valves than just lapping the valves.

 

buddaha is correct, he probably lapped the valves and were the valve seals changed

 

I dont think the seals were changed How much does an average valve job cost? and what tools are involved?

Thanks

 

a good complete valve job should go for 150-200.00 and you might get away with new stems also, make sure they do atleast a 3 angle valve job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think the seals were changed </TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as they aren't worn out, they are re-usable. It isn't mandatory to replace them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How much does an average valve job cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It varies depending on how reputable the shop is - anywhere from $150 - $250.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what tools are involved?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's nothing you can do on your own. I think most places these days use a Serdi machine - that would be something to look for when you're shopping around.

 

Thanks for the replies. Are the seals also known as the valve guides? or is this something different.

 

The valve guides are the metal tubes that the valves slide through. Replacing them is not a common procedure.

The valve seals are the rubber grommets attached to the tip of the valve guides. They eventually wear out over time which causes oil though the guide and into the cylinder where it burns and causes blue smoke. If you have a high mileage motor (over 100K miles) and it spits out blue smoke, a good first step towards fixing the problem is to replace the valve seals.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll run the engine for now with lapped valves and the old seals. If I suspect anything is up with them i.e. blue smoke etc I'll swap these over

Will the lapped valves as opposed to properly seated valves cause me to lose power?