is there an order you have to install these because when i rebuilt my gsr motor you had to number them...

 

Uh...what? You should measure each of them and fit them in the closest-size cylinder, that's the only thing I know of needing to do. That's probably the numbering you referred to (which would've required measuring the cylinders as well).

 

ok

 

any1 else

 

?

 

What is it you need answered?

They are not magicly numbered, numbers are the result of measuring and closest fiting to respective cyl bore...

 

well they look the same size to me and the cylinders look the same size too

 

There are differences down to like thousandths of an inch. You need someone who actually knows what they're doing and that has the right tools if you're doing this. At least, if you want it done right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are differences down to like thousandths of an inch. You need someone who actually knows what they're doing and that has the right tools if you're doing this. At least, if you want it done right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NA JDM GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well they look the same size to me and the cylinders look the same size too</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you kidding me?

Who is building your engine?

 

I'm surprised that people actually gave you a response on how to do it. I'm not trying to be too big of a dick, but just because you have JDM ITR pistons does not mean that the question is appropriate for the ITR forum.

Here, try this one: https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum/15
They might be more willing to give you instructions on how to do it, hell they may even have a sticky up top with how to already.

From reading your replys and questions, I highly doubt you are qualified to install the pistons. There is alot more than just puting them in, you not only have to measure everything multiple times, you have to gap the rings, etc.... I suggest you take it to a professional. If not, may god have mercy on your motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who is building your engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing he's trying to do it himself. Expensive lesson, to say the least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NA JDM GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well they look the same size to me and the cylinders look the same size too</TD></TR></TABLE>

walk away from the engine. rather, RUN away.

You are in no way qualified to do this.

Sure they LOOK the same. we are talking very small measurement differences, not small in importance, though.

chris - who ...... ugh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
chris - who ...... ugh.</TD></TR></TABLE>

want your 2 minutes back?

LMAO @ clitz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

want your 2 minutes back?

LMAO @ clitz</TD></TR></TABLE>



dude has 86%, im not sure what i expected.

 

can you say what motor is it going into? what is the bore size? what is the size of the pistons?.. if your putting them into that same gsr maybe you should some one else handle it...

 

b18c1 block 81mm bore STD itr pistons

 

STD bore - STD OEM pistons, just put them in, you'll be fine. If you can measure for best fit, do it, if not just put them randomly in.

As a matter of fact doing nothing on STD bore average mileage motor (bores not gone oval) with OEM pistons, is closer to spec than 80% of machine shops can manage anyway (doing overbore and bigger pistons).

 

ok thanks..

 

How would you even know if the cylinders are ovalized without measuring? Unless it's a brand-new block or something.

 

Block does not have to be brand new, I have installed STD pistons in 4-5 motors that ranged from 50K miles to 130Kmiles, no issues on either one, and oil consumption went down on every single one.

What I 've noticed with B18C in my experience, oil rings get tired after 60K or so (regular street driving) and you get your typical 1-2qt consumption per oil change.
In this case new pistons (more importantly rings) help.

I had an example of 130K B18c, using 1 1/4 oil every 3000miles.
Bores were close to true, so I just put new pistons (form more comp) and new Honda oil rings. Oil consumption went down to 1/2qt every 3000. Right now that same engine has 190K and oil consumption is up to 1qt every 3 K. You get an idea.

The only real issue I can see here is that some B18C will develop oval bore on main thrust angles ( N&lt;-&gt;S) and the only thing I can find in common with those motors is the way they were used.

If you spend a lot of time around redline ( I mean A LOT, 20 time VTEC every single day or something like that, for example), you might have 60K and go oval, while next guy has 160K and is only slightly oval.

In my opinion putting new OEM pistons into reasonable block, is far superior to boring the block.

I have learned not to trust machine shops, since Honda tolerances are not easy to get, and while some people are really good, most will just ruin your block or in best case give you "fresh block" with equvalent clearence of 100K miles on it.

My opinion is that if you do not have specific goals for your engine (racing...) reasonable block with JDM OEM pistons in STD size is amazing upgrade that keeps a lot of hands away from your engine and works well...

Also 3 of these motors, we did not even re-hone, and 130K miles was one of them (it was very hard to see hone marks), but it sealed just fine...

I am sure some pople would never do this, and give you resons why not (maybe they have machine shops?), but the fact is that it works amazingly well, and you get to keep the money too...


Modified by ninor at 8:02 AM 11/16/2006

 

That's interesting. Still, do you agree that measuring bore is a necessary part of that, if only to find out if the cylinders are ovalized or not?

 

If you have inside micrometar it is an easy thing to do. Little practice and few $ on the tool is all it takes.

So, it is easy to do, but is it required?, in my opinion, no.

Lets step back and consider the potential issues by putting in new STD pistons into an engine that was running prior to you disasembling it to change pistons.
Slightly oval or not, engine will run better. New rings, new bearings ( if you need them - main, rod).
Cost, downtime, is minimal. You can finish everything in a day and engine can stay in the car. Only one main bearing can not be replaced with crank in place.

So you spend a day and $500, no brainer to me.

It ran before disasembly, if you do better than a half *** job it will run again upon re-assembly.

Long story short:
bores get worn, but so do pistons. Putting in new pistons is sure way to get closer to spec even with slightly oval bores...

If your engine has an issue prior to disasembly (as not running, no compression and so on) chances are machine work is required ( and not because of oval bores)


Modified by ninor at 11:28 PM 11/16/2006