been having this for a few weeks, its been idling up and down around 3-4k rpm when cold and then calms down to 1k -1.5k rpm. searched and found that i needed to clean out my fast idle control. was done but it didnt fix the problem. also i put in a new idle valve control. checked the timing but my gun didnt get a read on the timing, cause no numbers where showing up weird!. then found out that my timing belt was loose because it was slighty hitting the plastic cover. please help me with this problem thanks!!! no mods bone stock motor with ctr lsd tranny.

 

hey i would like info on this as well. my 94 ls idles at around 1750 rpm when cold but settles down to to normal when warmed up.

 

Any cels? Does ur motor bog when u give it gas, or any other noticeable symptoms?

 

what type of gun do you have and how did you hook it up, hook it up to what. There are a half a dozen things that command idle speed, you are going to have to do your homework on this one.

 

i had a friend from uti see what was wrong, he said that it showed up cel for the idle control valve..but i think hes just bullshitin with me. i left it running for a good time and no cel was on. however, when its cold it idles high then chokes, rpm drops to 1 or below then jumps back up to 3+ sometimes pass 4.....? any suggestions?

 

Vacuum leak, you dont need a CEL to have a code in the computer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what type of gun do you have and how did you hook it up, hook it up to what. There are a half a dozen things that command idle speed, you are going to have to do your homework on this one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont know at this time, im at work. but theres a pos and neg and the clip to hook on the spark plug wire. i hooked up the pos and neg to battery and clip to piston #1. set degree to 16, timing light doesnt blink, jumped the ecu, rpm gauge on timing gun reads zero.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vacuum leak, you dont need a CEL to have a code in the computer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any suggestions to where this leak is coming from?

 

OK, you will have to spray carb cleaner around the intake area to include from the bottom where the intake meets the head, this is starters, when the cleaner gets sucked into the engine you will know.

 

Use a pair of pliers and clamp off the PCV hose, see if this helps, change it if it does and then do an oil change, its full of gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, you will have to spray carb cleaner around the intake area to include from the bottom where the intake meets the head, this is starters, when the cleaner gets sucked into the engine you will know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, ill try this out when i get off work.

 

check your vacumme lines and do a leak test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a pair of pliers and clamp off the PCV hose, see if this helps, change it if it does and then do an oil change, its full of gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how is it possible to be fulled with gas?

 

How damn good do you think the piston rings are at sealing the compressed air fuel mixture in the cylinder, why do you think you have to do oil changes in the first place, why do natural gas vehicles never have to do a tune up or oil change, come on Gus.

I can tell you must not be from Cali, if you have to get your car smogged by the BAR, then you should know all about fuel in the oil. If your oil is kind of new great, if not, and clamping the PCV hose helps then, well, see above in the other post. Read my signature please.

 

haha alirght buddy chill..ill try your method out. thanks man!

 

Kewl, you have a simple inductive timing light, move it to a different plug wire just to see if it will work, make sure the clamp is completely closed also. Lack of a light on that plug wire usually means no spark on that cylinder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kewl, you have a simple inductive timing light, move it to a different plug wire just to see if it will work, make sure the clamp is completely closed also. Lack of a light on that plug wire usually means no spark on that cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

still no readings on gauge and light on gun does not blink. maybe new spark wires?

 

I Have A Similar Problem, My Car Did This Before Tuning And After The S2 I.M. Install, When Warming Up It Bounces Or Surge's Between 1500-2000RPM, Once Warmed Up It Sits Right At 800 RPM Where It's Supposed To, Due To The Tuning On My P28 S300. During The Last 4 Months Since Tuning Every Time I Turned The Car On It Siat Right A 800 RPM Immediately. Now It Wants To Surge For About 5 Minutes Or So Before Resting At 800. What Could Start/Cause This?

 

4DRDB8GSR, how do you get all of your words to start with CAPS, do you do it the old fashioned way by holding the shift key or do you use word to build your replies or what.

I do this with excel, I have very large databases and I want every word to start with a CAP and yes, I have been doing it the old fashined way, just wanted to know if you had a better idea.

 

Now you have to try another car, maybe your timing light is broken. Are you sure the clamp is completely closed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4DRDB8GSR, how do you get all of your words to start with CAPS, do you do it the old fashioned way by holding the shift key or do you use word to build your replies or what.

I do this with excel, I have very large databases and I want every word to start with a CAP and yes, I have been doing it the old fashined way, just wanted to know if you had a better idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It Is Just Auto Pilot For Me To Capitalize Every Word, I Do Just Use The Shift Key On Every Word. Sometimes I Think It Might Slow Me Down If I Did Not Use The Key Due To My Auto Pilot Fingers

So What Do You Think About My Idle Problem, Any Suggestions? Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now you have to try another car, maybe your timing light is broken. Are you sure the clamp is completely closed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it is.

 

OK, last one, then I am out of ideas on this one. The fast idle control valve is heated up by hot coolant flowing through the two rubber hoses that are attached to the FICV. The coolant heats up a "bees wax" pellet. When this pellet gets warmer it expands and pushes up on the FICV, eventually blocking off bleed air to the intake. Essentially this is a controlled vacuum leak, again you could have another vacuum leak elsewhere like a gasket and when the metal parts heat up, the vacuum leak could be getting smaller.

Back to the FICV, take the two screws off of the top, cover the top with a shop rag really good and try to block off the perimeter of the white piece inside, you also can see a common screwdriver slot to make adjustments. Remember this thing rises and eventually blocks off a controlled vacuum leak so try to use your rag to do the same. Now here is what one problem could be, MAYBE there is air trapped in the coolant lines and the wax pellet is not heating up but this only effects idle when warm, yours is 3k when cold (I think 1k warm is too high anyways). Maybe this thing is way out of rig. Let it get fully warm then screw the thing up until the idle stabilizes around 750 (spec?) or as low as it will go (1k). Loosen up the hose clamps and let some coolant leak from both ends of the FICV to attempt to bleed off an air lock????????? Make sure the radiator is full to the top. How is your heater.

I am still monitoring this thread.

 

pcv valve is too hard to take off, is it a pull off push on? cause its kinda hard to take off.

oh yeah i forgot to mention that when i start up the car it has lots of smoke and have the smell of something burning..but that maybe just the coolant that spill burning/evaporating...

i've read other people's threads about their engine ilde problems. i came up to where this one guy said he changed his brake booster and it fixed his problem. well today i warmed up the car, and let it idle (still idles at 1500rpm!!!). i thought about it and kept on pumping the brakes, the idle, it started jumping up and down again (1500rpm to 2k rpm). could it be my brake booster?


Modified by ch4nq at 7:20 PM 11/14/2006


Modified by ch4nq at 7:21 PM 11/14/2006

 

yeah it "SHOULD" just pop right off........try giving it a little twist.