I have been really curious lately, on my old 93 integra I went with alot of the "ebay" parts. intake, springs, and short shifter. Intake worked out well for me not that hard tube and filter. the springs were advertised as "toms green" but they had TEIN stamped on them, now tein.com has a thing about counterfeit springs I probally got that batch. But to be honest the springs were allright a little bounch but I think that was due to blown shocks. And for the short shifter. I sold that car to a buddy of mine and the other day I was driving it and shifted it fast and the shifter literally broke in half after about a year since i had the car. So my conclusion would be they are hit or miss. But what is your input about the ebay parts?

 

imo all ebay parts are a miss

there are high end companies out there that put thousands of dollars in engineering better parts!

ebay takes the ''looks'' of the parts that others put thousands of dollars in engineering into make them cheap unireliable and thats exactly what you get

expendsive parts are just that for a reason, it takes high quality materials and engineering to make great parts

 

I agre about the hit or miss. anything that could cause me to crash and die, such as suspension and brakes i tend to NOT buy off of ebay.

 

Some good some bad. My shifter hasn't broke, my header hasn't cracked, and my lights still work,and my cam gear is still spinning without cracks.

Just watch what you buy! I did get jipped on the exhaust tip I bought, damn tin can I could have made a better one out of a coffee can.

Brakes, springs, clutches, and stuff like that is what I would not get.

 

did you notice any diff with the headers off there or did they give you more of a look?

 

I wasn't expecting alot from the header DC 421 but I feel I got a couple of Hp's on the top end (Butt dyno) it does have a better sound and I did go with 2 1/4 exhaust too.

A stock d16a6 isn't gonna get alot from bolt-ons I guess I should dyno it just for giggles. I know I would be lucky to get 10hp from the bolt-on's I have, but that is 10 more than I had. One thing I know it bounces off the rev limiter sooner than I was expecting when I first drove it.

 

I bought one of the imitation Hondata IM gaskets. It looks all warped and melted just from normal engine temperatures. Doesn't seem to be leaking though.

 

I got my short shifter from ebay. I broke it the first week I had it. POS! I had to change the shifter with a floor jack in a parking lot I coasted to.

I bought my Greddy SP2 knock off from ebay. It worked alright. I could never get it to stop leaking all the way, but it did take the cork out of my car's *** in power!! About two months ago, the hanger actually broke, and now I have a huge hole about the size of a dime in the piping. What a piece of ****!

 

ive seen brokin shortshifters,
waste gates fall off
manifolds crack
cams snap
flywheels melt to crank

 

Oh, and I almost forgot...my "hi-flow cat" Yeah, it was decent quality, but the flange on the side where the header bolts to was clocked about 15 degrees off, Making it an all-night project trying to install. It did have two o2 bungs that kind of made it nice to plug in a wideband sensor.

 

EBAY IS GOOD.

My best advice for everyone is to actually TAKE AUTO TECH.

Ebay parts are generally yes, knockoff parts that are being liquidated, reman parts, and **** kids sell cause they ran out of money. You need to know what the part does and consider any possible cost of rebuilding before buying.

Example:

Any brand of a short ram intake should be fine on account of its a tube. I just bought a generic all aluminum radiator. All it does it cool, and so long as the dimensions for the hoses and holes for the fan are in the right place, then its good.

If you are buying anything "custom" ask questions FIRST. If you will have to modify ****, make sure you contemplate this ahead of time.

When buying liquidated parts, such as maybe OEM knock off body parts...expect it not to fit unless you have a name brand attached, and/or a warranty. I will be buying a carbon fiber hood. The only one I have seen with PERFECT fitment is Spoon, but I wont spend over a grand on one. I am planning on possibly modifying the carbon hood, and am willing to put in hood pins should it wobble.

I bought a shifter, its fine. Civic shifters are one stick, so theres not much to go wrong. If you buy one for a car that uses say a shifter BOX, you may want to check out first the materials used, in case they are using a washer in place of a shim, and there could be slack, or a plastic part insted of a metal part that could fail. My shifter has abec-5 bearings, and included an aftermarket nut and bolt. This nut fell off, and my shift linkage disconnected while driving. the fault was not in the metal shifter, but that nut and bolt. I should have used the OEM bolt and nut, or at least gone and bought a nylon nut.

Its buyer beware. Ask questions, and make sure it fits. Some dimensions may not matter, others do.

I do my homework, and research the company, sometimes asking who physically makes the part. I have had great luck, but if you just buy whatever for the cheapest price without asking, you may not have good luck.

in conclusion, DO RESEARCH FIRST!

 

Good advice.

On the shifter I bought, it was a "stick" type also. Not a box or anything. The "stick" actually physically broke in half...right on the fulcrum bar.

I bought one of those cheap all aluminum radiators also. It actually burst on one of the fins. I took very careful care not to dent it during installation. There wasn't a dent there. It just burst. I'm not sure what the water pressure difference between a LS @ redline, and a b16 @ redline, but maybe the b16 just puts out a little more pressure that the radiator wasn't designed to handle. In short, I bought a dual core, full race radiator. Haven't had the first problem. It was a 500 (w/ shipping) dollar radiator at the time, so I better not have problems with it.

 

How the hell did you brake a stick of solid aluminum? If your pulling that hard I'd imagine the synchros would wear completely before the shifter broke. Elaborate, ya got my attention.

 

ive boght a lot of **** on ebay, some real some fake, ultimately you usually get what you pay for...

 

Well first of all, the shifter weighed a little more than a soda can. It was really light. I don't think it was aluminum. It felt more like chrome, and it snapped right where the ball is. The synchros were fine. I really don't shift all too hard. I powershift(leaving my foot on the gas through the shift), but not any harder than just a quick snap of the wrist. I don't put my arm behind it. Actually, when I got the car, the third gear synchro was shot. It would grind with any shift over 4000 rpm. When I powershift, it goes right in really easy, so during the shift that it broke on, it was under less stress. Bottom line...its a p.o.s., and I'd never buy another one. I only paid like $6 for it, so its not gonna be good anyways. Plus from what I've heard, they wear synchros like crazy.

 

Well I'm sorry, you musta gotten a TOTAL pos. I got an APC, which is like top of the line for junk products, so i'm ok. Yea I paid 15$ for mine (ballin huh?) so it was better.

Short shifters do NOT wear synchros. They affect the geometry of the shifter, sort of shifting the fulcrum toward the center. This means you have the POTENTIAL to break your shifters, if you shift like a gorilla. Regular shifters can break synchros too, you just have to move your arm farther and faster.

 

Like I said though, I don't hardly move my arm. I just flick my wrist. It's easier on everything. But to be honest, I used to shift really hard! I guess I thought to bee cool, you had to drive like the fast and the furious guys....then I learned to drive!!

I read from Omnipower's website, that a short shifter throws the timing of the shift off, and can ruin synchros. Check it out...that is why they sell their Quickclutch master cylinder. I never had a problem with my shifts, until the shifter snapped.

 

They would say something like that...to get you to buy their product. Throws the "timing" of the shift off? What does that mean? I drive a MANUAL, and I choose my own "timing" i guess, when i put the clutch in, how much, when and how hard i pull, what RPM to engage, etc. No idea what there saying, but I am thinking of getting a bigger CMC because I'm tired of having that long clutch stroke. I want it shorter and more direct, I want my brake pedal long for modulation. I know my car, I know how to use the clutch, so Id like to not take so long.

 

if anything that omni power master cylinder just gives more pressure but I don't think if would make that big of a diff.

 

That is omnipower though. The Omniman knows his ****. Regardless, I can't use the omni master cylinder anyways. I drive a DA!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qfast817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">flywheels melt to crank</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude are you serious? can you please explain what kind of driving/car setup/flywheel did this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dude are you serious? can you please explain what kind of driving/car setup/flywheel did this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Prolly some really cheap one, with a low melting point. That's why I have an ACT flywheel. It's awesome quality, it weighs 12lbs, and its balanced, and certified. Only $225

 

... i dont know if i can believe that flywheel melting thing if your engine got that hot it seems to me other stuff would fail too... i dunno just seems far fetched even for an ebay flywheel...

 

lol im using an ssautochrome intercooler. im making 550whp and the intercooler is holding up fine. its the big one, the fake precision 750. i paid $200.

 

Have you measured the pressure drop, and the temperature on each side? I'd like to see how efficient they really are. I've seen some fast ssautochrome turbo'ed cars. The only problems I've seen are the turbo seals blowing within the first 200 miles of use. I'd actually like to see how efficient your intercooler is.