ok i have a 94 hatch...i swaped a ls into it and boosted it. i run stock injectors and fuel regulator with a FMU and aem fuel rail...my problem is when i get to about 4-5 grand whn the turbo is fully spooled its like hitting a wall...its like the engine wont except the air.........can anyone help??

 

Im getting the same problem but i have no turbo and its at 7000 rpms :"(... Feels like no fuel. Allthow im gona go and get some codes tomarow hope fully that will fix it!

(my redline is at 8500 rpms... B18c5)

 

what boost are you running at? could be that the stock injectors dont have a big enough flow rate to handle all of the air. just a hunch.

 

bleh...fmu....stock injectors....


the problem most likely is you arent running a missing link. when running a ghetto/improper setup as you are you need a way to hide the boost from the map sensor, as soon as it senses positive pressure it will kill all power

 

i have a missing link but still problem

 

what size turbo are you running and is it an adjustable FMU? you may be running it too rich.

either way I'd ditch the fmu/ML and get a fuel managment system.

 

t3/t4 with non adjustable fmu mangement system like e-manage?? i have a check engine light on for air flow code 10 but im not sure how to get it off

 

that is probably your problem, if it's not it's not helping matters (code 10)

no, not emanage.

something like crome, hondata, uberdata, neptune etc

have you double checked the installation/proper functioning of your missing link, it may be reading boost and screwing your stuff up

i've never used a ML, i went with crome.

 

sounds like limp mode to me, get some real management. what PSI are you running.

 

ill check i thgought there was only one way to hookup the ml but ill look into chrome i use to have aem ems but traded it for the turbo kit ha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foreverwefall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">t3/t4 with non adjustable fmu mangement system like e-manage?? i have a check engine light on for air flow code 10 but im not sure how to get it off</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the IAT - intake air temperature sensor...might wanna replace it, like dohcdelsol said, if it's not THE problem, it's certainly not helping things. Replace and see where you are from there. Also I agree with...oh it's dohcdelsol again...dump the FMU and chip on a tune..

If you do all that and it's still pullin its ****, get aftermarket injectors...the LS injectos aren't the largest...what boost are you running at? I do think the injectors are the problem, but you'll also wanna see what's wrong with ur IAT, if it's not that u'll still wanna replace it...and ur running what kind of ECU? Chipped? Tuned?

From the sound of things ur running a half *** turbo setup.

Get larger injectors, get your ECU tuned (or even chipped if it's stock), which'll probably shut off code 10, dump the FMU....damn man..put this in the FI forum and u'll get flamed badly...

 

5lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foreverwefall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5lbs </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know your situation, but this is what it sounds like:
You thought u could throw a half *** turbo system on it, run 5lbs untuned, everything'd be smooth, and you'd have a nice boost in HP....don't bother denying it, please, save us all lots of time.

Get the ECU chipped, get it tuned on a dyno, get a real job done, evne if you're boosting 12lbs, 70% if not more of how a turbo system functions is based on a tune.

 

im not trying to half *** anything i plan on tuning it i just put everything up there and this happened so i thought i would ask for advice thank u all for the help now i know what i need to do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foreverwefall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not trying to half *** anything i plan on tuning it i just put everything up there and this happened so i thought i would ask for advice thank u all for the help now i know what i need to do</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, okay.

I stand corrected.

Get a chipped ECU running chrome or neptune for what you have, you don't need a hondata sytem, still say dump the FMU tho... The tuner will have complete tuning ability with just chrome on a chipped ECU. for tune.

That's probably the reason ur throwing the IAT code, you're probably maxing the voltage on one of the sensors due to no tune.

 

thanks and chrome chips the stock ecu?? and how much an hour??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foreverwefall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks and chrome chips the stock ecu?? and how much an hour??</TD></TR></TABLE>

That depends on your tuner (how much / hour). Chrome is just a program, you have to buy a chip and sodder it into your ECU, then it becoems programmable.

What a lot of people do is buy "chipped ECUs" which are usually OBD-I P28's or frankenstein P28's (non P28's wired up to be like a P28) b/c that's what can take a chip. So you buy a chipped ECU, then it's tunable, or if you have the skills, buy a reburnable chip, and sodder it in yourself (note it's at the risk of ruining ur ECU). You'll still need to get it tuned..

Then the tuner can load a base map program on it (fuel map for the B18B / LS in your case) and then change it so you won't have problems accordingly...

For a chipped P28 u could put a "WTB" ad, they're common enough...I know there's places like pherable and kenji who distribute chipped ECU's, but I'm not sure if they distribute reburnable chipped ECU's or just ECU's with a little better "average" base-map tune....if that's the case, it's not worth it, every car is different, your car needs to be tuned, can't be just "out of another car" even if everything's the same...evey car needs to be tuned differently..

Good Luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foreverwefall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks and chrome chips the stock ecu?? and how much an hour??</TD></TR></TABLE>

contact RLZ in N.C. not too far south from you. It's @250-300 for a tune + chipping the ecu.

but you'll need to get everything else together before you do it, they won't do the mods for you, they will kick you out and say come back when your ready.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That depends on your tuner (how much / hour). Chrome is just a program, you have to buy a chip and sodder it into your ECU, then it becoems programmable.

What a lot of people do is buy "chipped ECUs" which are usually OBD-I P28's or frankenstein P28's (non P28's wired up to be like a P28) b/c that's what can take a chip. So you buy a chipped ECU, then it's tunable, or if you have the skills, buy a reburnable chip, and sodder it in yourself (note it's at the risk of ruining ur ECU). You'll still need to get it tuned..

Then the tuner can load a base map program on it (fuel map for the B18B / LS in your case) and then change it so you won't have problems accordingly...

For a chipped P28 u could put a "WTB" ad, they're common enough...I know there's places like pherable and kenji who distribute chipped ECU's, but I'm not sure if they distribute reburnable chipped ECU's or just ECU's with a little better "average" base-map tune....if that's the case, it's not worth it, every car is different, your car needs to be tuned, can't be just "out of another car" even if everything's the same...evey car needs to be tuned differently..

Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

man you seriously need to quit giving advice about stuff you know nothing about.

its spelled CROME, its a program, correct, almost any obd0-1 ecu can accept a chip, the type of chip that is used determines if its rewriteable, you DO NOT solder the chip directly to the board, IAT voltage CANNOT be maxed due to the FMU, turbo, or stock injectors, i could go on and on and on.


OP, the FMU is not the problem as long as its hooked up correctly. 5psi on an LS is fine with an FMU, not the best, but shouldnt have any issues, especially driveability issues.

my first thoughts where a bad missing link, or improper install, but first thing i would do is reset your ECU, next pull your plugs, grab some one step cooler, close the gap to around .028" install plugs, and enjoy.

boost is blowing out your spark from the stock plugs, regapping them would most likely fix the problem, but might as well get cooler plugs just to play it safe.

next, send me $5 paypal for figuring it out for you.

 

update????

 

i gapped them to .030 and ordered my colder spark plugs from bap geon but it hasnt fixed the problem....i will put the colder spark plugs in as soon as i get them....any other sugestions?? any pics on hooking up fmu to make sure it is installed right??

 

anyone with other suggestions?? would have a manual boost controller turned off effect this?? i really am confused on what is wrong with it

 

what ecu are you using?

 

Ls i also have a type r throttle body by edelrbrock would that make a difference??

 

manual boost controller turned off???

please explain in more depth.