Motor rebuild question...
Hey all, searched for an answer and only came across a thread for a D16z6 rebuild which I don't think is what I have...
So anyway, I want to rebuild my motor since it has 227,000 miles on it and I can't remember the last time I changed the timing belt. Its a stock motor for a 95 DX with manual tranny. Can anyone give me a complete parts list and estimated total cost. Also, I was thinking of keeping it stock (seemed the cheapest) but if anyone has any suggestions on other (low cost) setups, please let me know.
Thanks!
So anyway, I want to rebuild my motor since it has 227,000 miles on it and I can't remember the last time I changed the timing belt. Its a stock motor for a 95 DX with manual tranny. Can anyone give me a complete parts list and estimated total cost. Also, I was thinking of keeping it stock (seemed the cheapest) but if anyone has any suggestions on other (low cost) setups, please let me know.
Thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just buy a cheap D16Z6 or D16Y8 and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>
he is right, you could pick up a D16Z6 for real cheap, then u could sell me your current motor if u want
.
But if you do decide to rebuild the motor, definitely replace all of the seals and belts, those should be the most important things. Also inspect your pistons and rods and replace those if necessary. Also check out the clutch and flywheel since those tend to wear over time, and the entire cooling system and master cylinders. And check the electrical systems: dizzy, spark plugs, etc. If your car has that many miles on it i would inspect the cv boots b/c they are prob getting pretty old and your car will start clicking when you turn.
good luck, and i seriously will buy your motor if u decide to just buy a whole new engine, just pm if u want to.
he is right, you could pick up a D16Z6 for real cheap, then u could sell me your current motor if u want
.But if you do decide to rebuild the motor, definitely replace all of the seals and belts, those should be the most important things. Also inspect your pistons and rods and replace those if necessary. Also check out the clutch and flywheel since those tend to wear over time, and the entire cooling system and master cylinders. And check the electrical systems: dizzy, spark plugs, etc. If your car has that many miles on it i would inspect the cv boots b/c they are prob getting pretty old and your car will start clicking when you turn.
good luck, and i seriously will buy your motor if u decide to just buy a whole new engine, just pm if u want to.
thanks guys! So are you saying it would be cheaper or better to just get a decent D16Z6 or D16Y8 motor? Also, do you have any estimates for both options, swap and rebuild? Thanks again!
ps- on a side note, would it be possible to gain more power out of my current motor by boring the holes, port/polish, bigger pistons, longer rods, etc...
ps- on a side note, would it be possible to gain more power out of my current motor by boring the holes, port/polish, bigger pistons, longer rods, etc...
I see Z6/Y8's in salvage yards go for around $300-$500. Just check out the classifieds on here.
What goals do you have for the car and we can go for there on what you should do.
What goals do you have for the car and we can go for there on what you should do.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see Z6/Y8's in salvage yards go for around $300-$500. Just check out the classifieds on here.
What goals do you have for the car and we can go for there on what you should do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep in mind those same $300-$500 engines will be in the exact same condition that the OP's is in.
OP if you just want to keep going a little longer then just get a swap. If you want to use that same car for another +100k miles then rebuild. Most rebuilds consist of:
-rods
-pistons
-Arp headstuds and acl bearings
-headgasket
What goals do you have for the car and we can go for there on what you should do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep in mind those same $300-$500 engines will be in the exact same condition that the OP's is in.
OP if you just want to keep going a little longer then just get a swap. If you want to use that same car for another +100k miles then rebuild. Most rebuilds consist of:
-rods
-pistons
-Arp headstuds and acl bearings
-headgasket
yeah, you can run one of the dx engines for a really long time, but if you are going to go through all the trouble to get the current motor back into shape, you may as well save the down time and get a better motor like those that other guys suggested and getting that in perfect shape before spending a long weekend swaping it in.
to start off when the motor is in perfect shape and keep up with the matinence, you wouldn't need to swap, but to try to catch up all at once by rebuilding... swap time.
to start off when the motor is in perfect shape and keep up with the matinence, you wouldn't need to swap, but to try to catch up all at once by rebuilding... swap time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
keep in mind those same $300-$500 engines will be in the exact same condition that the OP's is in.
OP if you just want to keep going a little longer then just get a swap. If you want to use that same car for another +100k miles then rebuild. Most rebuilds consist of:
-rods
-pistons
-Arp headstuds and acl bearings
-headgasket
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not particularly. Seen plenty with around 75k on them. I would just look for a z6/y8 head a do a mini me build while I was at it.
keep in mind those same $300-$500 engines will be in the exact same condition that the OP's is in.
OP if you just want to keep going a little longer then just get a swap. If you want to use that same car for another +100k miles then rebuild. Most rebuilds consist of:
-rods
-pistons
-Arp headstuds and acl bearings
-headgasket
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not particularly. Seen plenty with around 75k on them. I would just look for a z6/y8 head a do a mini me build while I was at it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scottybfh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to rebuild my motor since it has 227,000 miles on it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why? What's wrong with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't remember the last time I changed the timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So do a timing belt job on it. The parts (t belt, tensioner, water pump, coolant) won't cost you more than $140 at most.
Why? What's wrong with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't remember the last time I changed the timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So do a timing belt job on it. The parts (t belt, tensioner, water pump, coolant) won't cost you more than $140 at most.
First of all, thanks for all the replies! Nothing is really wrong with it, per say, I just would like the car to last me another 5-6 years, and I wasn't sure how much longer it could go, lol. I've had it since 2001 with 80k miles on it and only changed the belt once at about 130k or so, not really sure when so thats a guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep in mind those same $300-$500 engines will be in the exact same condition that the OP's is in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And I agree with him, would it even be worth it to swap based on that? Not to mention the extra costs for ECU, wiring harness, tranny...etc. Don't have that kinda money since I just got married and full-time college student.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would just look for a z6/y8 head a do a mini me build while I was at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are there any additional costs besides buying the Z6/Y8 head?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep in mind those same $300-$500 engines will be in the exact same condition that the OP's is in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And I agree with him, would it even be worth it to swap based on that? Not to mention the extra costs for ECU, wiring harness, tranny...etc. Don't have that kinda money since I just got married and full-time college student.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would just look for a z6/y8 head a do a mini me build while I was at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are there any additional costs besides buying the Z6/Y8 head?
I have a D15B7 in my sol with around 100k on it. No oil used or burned just changed all belts yada yada yada. I am building another motor for boost. If you want to about two months you can have mine just pay shipping.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scottybfh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing is really wrong with it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then leave it in there. There is no point in messing with an engine that is running fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just would like the car to last me another 5-6 years, and I wasn't sure how much longer it could go, lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep up with maintenance (fluid/filter changes, timing belt, etc.) and keep the oil sump topped off, and it will keep running for you. The only weak point on that particular engine is the head gasket, which can be replaced if it develops a leak.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had it since 2001 with 80k miles on it and only changed the belt once at about 130k or so, not really sure when so thats a guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you changed it around 130,000 miles, then it is due for a timing belt job again (the change interval is 7 years or 90,000 miles). Like I said, just get the timing belt job done. If you do the labor yourself, it won't cost you more than $140.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And I agree with him, would it even be worth it to swap based on that? Not to mention the extra costs for ECU, wiring harness, tranny...etc. Don't have that kinda money since I just got married and full-time college student.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So save your money and just maintain your current engine until it actually develops a problem, if ever. For a daily driven commuter car, there is no point in a rebuild unless the engine needs it (i.e. spin a bearing, break a timing belt and bend valves, hydrolock and bend connecting rods, scored cylinder walls or bad rings leaking oil and compression, etc.).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any additional costs besides buying the Z6/Y8 head?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, there are. You'd need to do a timing belt/water pump job to replace the head anyway, a P28 ECU (plus extra tuning if you use a Y8 head), a head gasket, a distributor if you use a Z6 head, and various other small items.
Then leave it in there. There is no point in messing with an engine that is running fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just would like the car to last me another 5-6 years, and I wasn't sure how much longer it could go, lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep up with maintenance (fluid/filter changes, timing belt, etc.) and keep the oil sump topped off, and it will keep running for you. The only weak point on that particular engine is the head gasket, which can be replaced if it develops a leak.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had it since 2001 with 80k miles on it and only changed the belt once at about 130k or so, not really sure when so thats a guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you changed it around 130,000 miles, then it is due for a timing belt job again (the change interval is 7 years or 90,000 miles). Like I said, just get the timing belt job done. If you do the labor yourself, it won't cost you more than $140.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And I agree with him, would it even be worth it to swap based on that? Not to mention the extra costs for ECU, wiring harness, tranny...etc. Don't have that kinda money since I just got married and full-time college student.
</TD></TR></TABLE>So save your money and just maintain your current engine until it actually develops a problem, if ever. For a daily driven commuter car, there is no point in a rebuild unless the engine needs it (i.e. spin a bearing, break a timing belt and bend valves, hydrolock and bend connecting rods, scored cylinder walls or bad rings leaking oil and compression, etc.).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any additional costs besides buying the Z6/Y8 head?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, there are. You'd need to do a timing belt/water pump job to replace the head anyway, a P28 ECU (plus extra tuning if you use a Y8 head), a head gasket, a distributor if you use a Z6 head, and various other small items.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a D15B7 in my sol with around 100k on it. No oil used or burned just changed all belts yada yada yada. I am building another motor for boost. If you want to about two months you can have mine just pay shipping.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be great! Please keep me updated and let me know when you're ready. Thanks alot, thats probably the nicest thing anyone has ever done for me!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you changed it around 130,000 miles, then it is due for a timing belt job again (the change interval is 7 years or 90,000 miles). Like I said, just get the timing belt job done. If you do the labor yourself, it won't cost you more than $140.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Will do, and thanks for your honest opinion! Definitely better than some of the other crap answers I read in other threads!
That would be great! Please keep me updated and let me know when you're ready. Thanks alot, thats probably the nicest thing anyone has ever done for me!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you changed it around 130,000 miles, then it is due for a timing belt job again (the change interval is 7 years or 90,000 miles). Like I said, just get the timing belt job done. If you do the labor yourself, it won't cost you more than $140.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Will do, and thanks for your honest opinion! Definitely better than some of the other crap answers I read in other threads!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bsixteen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just posting to reinforce keeping the engine you have. its treated you well for a long time so return the favor and get that timing belt done and it will keep on truckin
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It has been the BEST motor I have ever had. Hardly any maintenance except for regular oil changes, battery, and a distributor o-ring. Of course, I am comparing it to the only 3 other vehicles I have ever owned: 83 Ford F-150, 86 Ford T-bird, and 94 Chevy Camaro. Just finally had to get a Honda!
</TD></TR></TABLE>It has been the BEST motor I have ever had. Hardly any maintenance except for regular oil changes, battery, and a distributor o-ring. Of course, I am comparing it to the only 3 other vehicles I have ever owned: 83 Ford F-150, 86 Ford T-bird, and 94 Chevy Camaro. Just finally had to get a Honda!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scottybfh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It has been the BEST motor I have ever had. Hardly any maintenance except for regular oil changes, battery, and a distributor o-ring. Of course, I am comparing it to the only 3 other vehicles I have ever owned: 83 Ford F-150, 86 Ford T-bird, and 94 Chevy Camaro. Just finally had to get a Honda!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol domestic cars suck ***
It has been the BEST motor I have ever had. Hardly any maintenance except for regular oil changes, battery, and a distributor o-ring. Of course, I am comparing it to the only 3 other vehicles I have ever owned: 83 Ford F-150, 86 Ford T-bird, and 94 Chevy Camaro. Just finally had to get a Honda!
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol domestic cars suck ***
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steven. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus hondas get u bitch's</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO!!! Well, it got me one at least!
LMAO!!! Well, it got me one at least!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scottybfh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing is really wrong with it</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petty$rep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep!
plus...what kind of extent are you going to do on your rebuild? rebuild the heads? just timing belt?
yeah its nice to swap in another motor..but you could just swap in more headaches. thats something to consider.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
</TD></TR></TABLE>yep!
plus...what kind of extent are you going to do on your rebuild? rebuild the heads? just timing belt?
yeah its nice to swap in another motor..but you could just swap in more headaches. thats something to consider.
if it aint broke dont fix it, in a rebuild
new bearings-120 bucks acl
new gakets around 1000 for all (head gasket, vlave seals, oil pan, valve cover, etc etc they sell kits)
new rings -100
-fluids 90-120
-belts-300
head studs (recomended by me 100)
honing free if you know how to do it,
resurface head, 400 (along with 3 angle valve job, hottanking etc etc)
it adds up,
new bearings-120 bucks acl
new gakets around 1000 for all (head gasket, vlave seals, oil pan, valve cover, etc etc they sell kits)
new rings -100
-fluids 90-120
-belts-300
head studs (recomended by me 100)
honing free if you know how to do it,
resurface head, 400 (along with 3 angle valve job, hottanking etc etc)
it adds up,
Thanks for all the input guys! Yeah, I guess I'm just still not use to driving a Honda yet, lol. All my other cars had to be scrapped at over 100k and here is my little ol' Honda still purring at over 200k. Just thought that surely I would have to rebuild/overhaul soon but from what ya'll are saying, guess not, hehe!
Will definitely do the timing belt/water pump though! And maybe the spark plugs and wires...
Thanks again!
Will definitely do the timing belt/water pump though! And maybe the spark plugs and wires...
Thanks again!



