Will type r pistons swap straight into a b18a1 block or do you have to switch rods/crank?

 

I was wondering the same thing. I was told that you had to swap rods/cranks to make it work. I Think the b18a1 and b18c5 are the same bore, why wouldn't it work with just pistons?

 

yes but it is recomended that you get a hone.

 

yes? yes what? do i need to change the rods or use the type r rods? do i need to change the crank or can i use the b18a1?

 

I believe you need a gsr or R crank also. This is from a tech article I saved awhile back:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The B18C1, B18C5, and B16B rod are 1.96-2 mm narrower (0.858 in. vs. 0.935 in. in non-R rods) at the crank end (or rod "big end") and will not fit on the other Honda B series cranks or pistons.

also


c) Rule 3: Any B series piston will directly fit onto any B series rod without milling or machining , EXCEPT the B18C's and B16B {i.e. the "R family" of rods} .

The connecting rod bearing width on the B16A,B17A, B20B/Z, and B18A/B is apporoximately 19.5 mm. The connecting rod bearing width for the B18C1, B18C5, and B16B is approximately 17.5 mm (ca. 1.4-2mm narrower at the crank). The same narrower width happens at the small end of the rod. The B18C small end width is approx. 2mm narrower than the other Honda B series rods' small end width.

LS owners who want more compression, you can this from a B16A and B17A piston and it is a direct fit at the piston pin to your rod.If you want to put a narrower B18C piston onto your rod, you must mill 1 mm off each side of the rod at the small end to fit.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stankin95CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you need a gsr or R crank also. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong, please don't post crap like this when you have no clue.


You leave everything that comes on a LS except the pistons. ITR pistons will mate with LS rods you have to do a little metal removal but it is straight forward.

 

all you have to do is shave the ls rods like people been doing for years.

 

First off: WHAT KIND OF ANSWER IS THAT LIMPY? That is a hypathetical question by the way. Please don't answer that after the first answer you gave us. Find a forum that talks about euro taillights and stuff if thats what your gonna post.

So the conclusion is that the pistons will fit to ls rods with some milling off on the upper part of the rod and you would still be using the stock ls crank so the connecting side will obviously still fit. But the stroke is the same? That would be my other question. It just seems to me that it would be a safer bet to just switch type R rods and crank as well if you had the resources. It would just make me nervous letting a machine shop mill off part of my rod knowing they could mill too much and have play in it.

 

ITR rods with LS crank are too long and will not work. You need to keep the stock LS rods and crank, people have been milling the rods for sometime now. As you said just need to make sure you have a good shop do them or do them yourself.

ITR rods with ITR crank actually lowers the compression compared to ITR Pistons with LS crank in B18a/b block.

Stroke
ITR crank is 87.20mm
LS crank 89.00mm

Rods
ITR 137.90
LS 137.00

 

its 1mm off each side of the small end of the rods. that's pretty simple for a machine shop to do

 

thanks alot guys!

 

thanks everyone who helped

 

wow, i learned alot! how about LS/Vtec, i have a b18b block all stock, and keep crank and rods and will work with ITR pistons? just get it honed and shave the pistions?

 

^^ yeah you can either shave the pistons or rods..its 1mm each side..They'll work fine,,maybe get some overbore pistons though if you're completly rebuilding the motor.

 

bookmarked, this is interesting

 

What do you think of this poor mans type r build

a poor man Type r gsr bottom block with Jdm ctr pistons b16 head port and polished supertech flat faced oversized valves supertech dual springs and retainers victor x manifold Jdm ctr lsd transmission black gsr leather interior front and back nrg quick release carbon fiber fenders hood side mirrors and wing the fenders and hood have sun damage power window conversion on Koni yellows with coilobwr sleeves extended top hats sitting on rota grid v

 

LOCK

 

p30 pistons would be your best bet, offers a little more bump in compression, unless your talking about the CTR type r pistons

 

Since you are posting in a thread that hasn't been active in 10 years, I say it's fair that you might get a reply in about 10 years.
Not likely, but I'll keep my hopes up for you.

I'm certain those carbon fenders, sun damaged paint, power windows, interior stuff, and suspension are key points to your hype-r engine build.
Thanks for remembering to point them out.