Once my engine(d16A6) is warm it idles at about 600RPM and sometimes at stop lights it will drop to like 400RPM. Today I got home and decide to unplug the EACV to see what would happen. My engine then idled at around 100-200RPM.
Does anyone know whhat my problem is?
I searched and didn't come up with any good information.

Thanks for the help.

 

Up for some help.

 

My beater idles real low sometimes. I figure aslong as it doesn't effect anything else it doesn't bother me any. If nothing else it is going to use less gas at idle horay. Atleast that was my thinking on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My beater idles real low sometimes. I figure aslong as it doesn't effect anything else it doesn't bother me any. If nothing else it is going to use less gas at idle horay. Atleast that was my thinking on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It affects the car sometimes when I am driving also. It will start to bog sometimes and will jurk as I am going down the road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by george34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It affects the car sometimes when I am driving also. It will start to bog sometimes and will jurk as I am going down the road. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would guess and say the ignitor possibly. Most problems of bogging and such that I've come across in distributor equipped hondas was the ignitor. Expecially since you have no CEL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would guess and say the ignitor possibly. Most problems of bogging and such that I've come across in distributor equipped hondas was the ignitor. Expecially since you have no CEL.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will look into that. The only CEL that I have had was an O2 sensor. The wire broke some how causeing it to throw CEL 1. I soldered the wire and the problem still occurs. Could the problem be a bad O2 sensor(I need to check where I soldered the wore too)? It doesn't have anything to do with DC moving the sensor really far back, does it?

 

you might want to adjust your idle according to the helms manual. 100-200 rpm with eacv disconnected seems a bit low. Good luck!

 

I'm betting your throttle air screw (or what ever its called) has vibrated its way clockwise. Its the flat head screw just above the throat of the throttle body.
Turn it counter clockwise and you will notice the idle raise as well as the volume of air increase as well. This was the cause of my "whistle" noise that was driving me nuts. The screw worked its way in to the point where the air would whistle as it passed through the TB.
Hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm betting your throttle air screw (or what ever its called) has vibrated its way clockwise. Its the flat head screw just above the throat of the throttle body.
Turn it counter clockwise and you will notice the idle raise as well as the volume of air increase as well. This was the cause of my "whistle" noise that was driving me nuts. The screw worked its way in to the point where the air would whistle as it passed through the TB.
Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is the whistle you are talking about happen under hard acceleration and it sounds like a supercharger? Did you have the same symptoms as I have.

 

George34, your car should idle at 625-650 with eacv disconnected. I would readjust idle per manual to see if it fixes the problem. Good luck

 

If I have time tom and it is not raining I will try adjusting the idle screw, but the idle screw would not cause my car drop 200 RPM and then go back to 600 while sitting at a stop light, would it. I could see the c]screw coming loose becuase I put window weld in my mounts.

 

my ef was doing that today, and then turns out my fuel gauage isnt working, and my motor(d16a6) started to bog down as you were saying and then when shifting to second it acted like i was in first and mashing the gas alot, jerking real hard, and then it boged real hard and i ran out of gas. added fuel, back to normal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by george34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is the whistle you are talking about happen under hard acceleration and it sounds like a supercharger? Did you have the same symptoms as I have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah , it started to run like *** a bit and the whistle was like a loud as belt sqeal.
I think you have two problems ,
... your IACV needs cleaning or replaced , and your throttle screw above the throttle body throat needs to turned counter clockwise about 3 - 3 1/2 full turn if your getting the whistle noise off the screw.....
Trust be , do these things and you will ride happy again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah , it started to run like *** a bit and the whistle was like a loud as belt sqeal.
I think you have two problems ,
... your IACV needs cleaning or replaced , and your throttle screw above the throttle body throat needs to turned counter clockwise about 3 - 3 1/2 full turn if your getting the whistle noise off the screw.....
Trust be , do these things and you will ride happy again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you clean the IACV? I will try these suggestions and post the results. The only problem is that the idle does not drop all the time so it could take a while for me to tell.

 

I just finished cleaning the EACV. There was a pretty good amout of carbon build up on the screen. Today it is raining so I'm not going to drive my car today. Tom. is going to be nice so I will be back with some results tom.

 

Hope a cleaning did the trick for you , I still think thats just one half of your problem.

 

You used carb cleaner to clean it right??? I hope you let it dry out really good before you re-installed it. It sounds like a combination of loose throttle cable and throttle screw not adjusted properly.

try this.....
You will get check engine lights by doing this and have to reset your ecu. The EACV is located o the rear of the intake manifold and has 2 hoses running into the bottom. The plug for it on mine is green.

Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. When the car is under no load(i.e. no lights, no fans, no ac or heater, no power being pulled) disconnect the EACV plug. The car should drop to 650+ or-50 rpm. Adjust your idle adjustment screw(located on the throttle body) to dial this in. Plug the EACV plug back in.

Turn the engine off and reset the ecu(disconnect the hazard and ecu fuse for 10 sec.). Idle the engine for a minute under no load conditions your car should idle at 800+ or-50 rpm. Now idle for a min. with the lights and rear defoger on, the idle should stay within this 800+ or -50rpm range. Do the same thing with the heater on high.

If idle problems continue I would recomend replacing the EACV first. However when you are having problems with the EACV you should get a check engine light.
So heres how to test the EACV. Disconnect the plug to the EACV and measure resistance between the 2 terminals on the EACV. If there is not 8-15 ohms replace the EACV. If there is then continuity between each of the terminals and ground. If continuity exists then replace the EACV. If no it more then likely is an ECU problem that will resort in replacing first the EACV then the ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hope a cleaning did the trick for you , I still think thats just one half of your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The screen was bad. I wanted to try only one thing at a time. The next thing I do will be to adjust the idle screw.

[QUOTE=0oE]You used carb cleaner to clean it right??? I hope you let it dry out really good before you re-installed it. It sounds like a combination of loose throttle cable and throttle screw not adjusted properly.[QUOTE]

I used carb cleaner to clean it. Why do you say to let it dry out(carb cleaner combustible)? I did not let it dry but I have also not started my car.

Thanks for posting the other things too. Before when I turned the lights on waited a couple seconds and turned them off they idle would drop to 400-500RPM. If my engine idles correct should there be anymore than a 50RPM drop when the lights are turned on?

Thanks for the help so far! Please keep checking back.

 

No it shouldnt change to much with accessories on. If theres still carb cleaner in there when you go to start it it might crank over but not start. If it does start though it might die so just keep your foot on the gas to get all the cleaner burnt out. The post i made above is to get the EACV dialed in properly so you can adjust you idle. Theres no point trying to adjust idle when the EACV is out of wack

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0oE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No it shouldnt change to much with accessories on. If theres still carb cleaner in there when you go to start it it might crank over but not start. If it does start though it might die so just keep your foot on the gas to get all the cleaner burnt out. The post i made above is to get the EACV dialed in properly so you can adjust you idle. Theres no point trying to adjust idle when the EACV is out of wack</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok. I will see what happens when I go to leave for school tom.

 

My car started just fine. The idle is still low like I and everyone else expected. When I turned the lights on the RPM went up to about 1000RPM.Is that normal? Tomorrow when I get home from school I well adjust the idle a little higher. How do you know when I have the idle set at 850 if I just have the tach? Is it possible to do or do I have to get an RPM meter(whatever they are called) to hook up?

 

car should idle at 750+or - 50 rpm. When lights are turned on it puts strain on the engine so rpm will go up slightly more. Adjust idle like ooe has it written. Good luck

 

You have low idle? I have a high idle :/

 

Update: Today I was looking at my tach and noticed I was retarded. I never noticed that there was a 500RPM line really close to the 0RPM line. So my car idles ~800RPM. But when I disconnect the EACV the idle drops to ~400-450RPM. I could not find where the idle screw was and I had to do something. So that has still not been done.

For a couple mins. I let my car idle. I let it idle with no load, then just the headlights, and then just the air on high. Most of the time it would idle ~800RPM, but when I turned the headlight on the RPM droped to ~600-650 and then went up to about 850-900. Also a couple time when there was no load the RPM would surge to ~850-900.

Do you guys still think that the only problem I have is that the idle is not set right?

 

Similar question: I want to adjust my idle air control but the flat head screw is like embedded in the tb..and the screw is like impossible to turn...any ideas? its a D16A vtec btw