94' ex coupe with GSR swap. I chose the LSD from my swap source. It is an OEM differntial, but not a Type-r, but came uninstalled. Durring install, I had to swap sealed bearing in place of tapered. Also some case grindng involed to fit. After I went turbo shortly after, I broke the stock axels, 1 napa set, and 1 set of raxels. After the last break, i heard a "whirr" noise from the trans that I decided to be diff bearing noise. I pulled the trans the othernight and opened to confirm.
My question is 3 part. What would cause both bearings to fail? I know axel breakage is the obvious answer, but since this was my first diff install, I question my instalation. I used the instuctions from Hybrid,com and the helms though. Can unnesesary "pre load" cause this?

Secondly, I heard nothing, but good thing about raxels. Why did they break? Any experiances?

Last, does anyone have a link some some qulity info about this Honda diff? I was told it was a JDM option on an Integra (SIR i read somewhere?).

Thanks in advace

 

Wow. That's definately a weird one.

I could have sworn that you would have been able to use the tapered roller bearings for it though. There shouldn't be a need to use the closed bearings, although they are a bit easier to work with. Do you have pics of the diff?

 

What was the installed differential thrust clearance after switching to the enclosed diff bearings?

 

Here are some pics...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was the installed differential thrust clearance after switching to the enclosed diff bearings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't remember, it's been years. It was tight witout any shims. I have found more information than was out there when I did it. Everyone is using shims. Could the bearings have not been fully seated?

 

It'll look tight, but it can still have several thouth's of clearance. Loose clearances will allow the diff to move side-to-side and the shock is probably what eventually kills the bearings.

Look in the casing to make sure it didn't have a shim. If not, then remove the gearsets and install the diff and casing. Then you can check the diff thrust clearance with feeler gauges.

 

I'll have to get a new bearing before I can check. I assume the play in the existing bearing will give false tolerances at this point. There are deffinately no shims installed.

In the mean time, anyone know anything about the diff pictured above or opinions on Raxels?
Thanks again