Big power guys ... head-bolt question...
Hey guys
Quick question... All you 600whp+ guys do you run custom 1/2" arp head studs or you go with ge, arp, or aebs standards???
I have been hearing mixed stories on what to do with the new setup ...
Quick question... All you 600whp+ guys do you run custom 1/2" arp head studs or you go with ge, arp, or aebs standards???
I have been hearing mixed stories on what to do with the new setup ...
Thats what I thought ...
Do you just have the head holes re-drilled and the block drilled and tapped (or heli-coiled) at any machine shop or is there more that needs done ??
Do you just have the head holes re-drilled and the block drilled and tapped (or heli-coiled) at any machine shop or is there more that needs done ??
I use regular arp studs,and neverhad a problem,boosting as much as 37psi.
I just dont use them more then twice.
I try not to use the 1/2 in studs cause if it detonates i'd rather blow a head gasket then kick a rod out.
No offense but dont like the G.E. cause of the nipple at the end.I've seen alot of guys misuse them and crack the outer sidewall of the blocks.
I just dont use them more then twice.
I try not to use the 1/2 in studs cause if it detonates i'd rather blow a head gasket then kick a rod out.
No offense but dont like the G.E. cause of the nipple at the end.I've seen alot of guys misuse them and crack the outer sidewall of the blocks.
Just have them drilled and tapped. Get the L19 material studs and tq to 100 ft lbs. Dont know if this is what everyone else does but I did as I was told by a couple very fast pro guys.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qksl2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much did you torque them down to?
Ian</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll have to re-confirm, but I believe ARP recommend 86ft/lbs. for b-series
I still have my ARP box laying around, or I'll double check on ARP's website.
Ian</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll have to re-confirm, but I believe ARP recommend 86ft/lbs. for b-series
I still have my ARP box laying around, or I'll double check on ARP's website.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock arp's are like 62 or 65 ftq not 86</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, I was thinking 68ft/tq for ls/vtec, thanks for the correction
Correct, I was thinking 68ft/tq for ls/vtec, thanks for the correction
I've never built a high hp B-series, but I was running stock head bolts on my H22A. It went 144 mph in a 2550 lb car, it was right around 600 hp. I run off the shelf ARP studs on the K. They've been retorqued quite a few times, the head has been off at least six times that I can remember. I hit 40 psi in 5th gear because I broke 4th gear at one race. It was also good for 150 mph in Pomona last month, same 2550 lb car.
Tyler
Tyler
So all you guys running the stock arp's just step torque them to about 80 (with the lube or with plain motor oil??) ??
If it works I would much rather do that than try to find a machine shop that can do this from previous experience... my guy said he could, but has not and I would rather not waste a good sleeved block.
If it works I would much rather do that than try to find a machine shop that can do this from previous experience... my guy said he could, but has not and I would rather not waste a good sleeved block.
We have used ARP, and are using Golden Eagles now. Both work great, no issues here. Tourqed to what the instructions say. I see NO reason for the L19 1/2 inch studs...............but to each his own.



