hey, sometimes when i make a hard right or left turn, doesnt matter how fast, i hear a knocking noise coming from my right wheel well, not sure what it is, my car has 18's with 215/35 tires on it, and its stock height, at first i thought i could be rubbing on something but im pretty sure thats not what it is, any help is appreciated.

thanks.

 

Look at your CV boot on your axle(rubber boot keeping in grease). If its torn it will cause you axles to do this, and it will only get worse.

 

b4 any of these asses on here hound you about not searching, it sounds like your right outer cv joint of your axle, the boot may be torn and grease is probly flung all inside your wheel, replace whole axle

 

Ok, is this something i can look at really quickly without jacking up the car? where exactly do i find the boot?

so if this is the problem ill need to replace the whole axle? or just the boot? how much will the fix run me you think?

thanks for the help.

 

check your axles at first like mentioned before but also check your lower control arm on the right side cause it's rare when one axle clicks while turning in both directions. lift the front end of your car off the ground and try and pull the tire in and out. if it moves you could have damaged your sub frame, it's the bolt that connects the lower control arm to the sub frame. the bolt passes through the front of the sub frame and into a bolt that is welded to the inside of the sub frame, it's not even visible. honda thought it was a good idea to cover it. it happend twice in one week to two hondas that came to my shop, it's a easy fix if you have access to a compressor and a whiz wheel. just cut a access hole in the sub frame and tighten the bolt while holding the nut. its also good to put a spot weld or two so it doesn't happen again. thats all IF you find this problem if it's just axles just replace them.

 

get new axles cause if its been a while since the cause of this, your axle might have got corroded and is a hazard for you cause the rust would make it a lot weaker which could cause it to break at almost anytime! As for taking a look, it is the two axles coming out of your tranny that run to the center of your tire where they are bolted onto. Feel around the rubber surrounding the axle looking for holes leaking grease!

 

just checked my boots and they arent leaking, they seem fine, i dont know if its my subframe or w/e but ill jack up my car tomorow or the next day and see about that.

thanks

 

also a very obvious idea...but you should definately check... make sure your lugs arent loose. my friend's mustang had this same problem, we couldn't figure it out. it turned out to simply be the lug nuts on one of his tires were lose.

 

how loose, i dont think thats it because the last time they were out on it was at a shop, and it was like a week ago when i got my new wheels put on. it doesnt make this sound ALL the time, but alot of times it does.

 

that was quite possibly the worst advice ive ever read in my entire existence..and i almost crapped myself when i saw you were from S.I. DO NOT cut holes in your subframe! for any reason.. there is always access to any bolt on your car somehow, whether you have the right tools or not is a diff story. now, just bc your axle boot appears to be good does not mean cancel out the axle as an option. try checking for play, grabbing the axle by the joint (not the rubber) at the tranny and moving it in and out.. this will make sure the c-clip is still intact that keeps it from popping out. next you can take a look at your inner tie rod covers. Make sure there are no holes in them. if there is, most likely its your inner tie rod making noise. the reason behind this is simple.. dirt and water can get inside the boot, corroding and rusting the joint that allows movement for the inner tie rod. you can also check all of the ball joints on the suspension, upper/lower control arms and outer tie rods. if you have one, while the front end is in the air (no load on the ball joints) grab a pry bar and check for play by trying to pretty much pry the ball joint from its seat on the control arm or knuckle. if you see any play, replace as necessary. good luck

 

turn you wheel all the way to the right as far as it will go and look behind the wheel from the drivers side, youll see a rubber boot over a long metal shaft. if the boot is not covering the joint replace cv joints.

REPLACES BOTH CV JOINTS driver and pass side, whenever you replace one replace both

if got the ame problem just havnt fixed it yet. a local mechanic will probably do it for about 180-280 bucks.

i took my car side ways at 80 screwin around one night on a corner just for the hell of it.

 

Ok, so basically look for holes? when i get home from school today ill jack her up and take a look under there and look for something unusual, if i dont find anything im gonna end up taking it to m local shop and have them check it out, i have to get my dash lights reset anyways, im pulling a CEL and an SRS light.

 

"if got the ame problem just havnt fixed it yet. a local mechanic will probably do it for about 180-280 bucks.

i took my car side ways at 80 screwin around one night on a corner just for the hell of it"

-i dont even have to say anything reguarding your "replace both axles when you really only need one" comment the sentences above say it for me..

-To the OP find anything yet?

 

well thats the way the mechanic at honda showed me how to do it so thats the way i fix it. anyway the subframe is full of holes to begin with an so by making an existing hole bigger i don't think it'll do much if any to the car. i've seen cars, especially older accords come in because the customer just wants an alignment and the sub-frame is cracked right down the middle. there is an access hole that honda puts there but it's too small even for the smallest 14mm wrench trust me i have alot of wrenches (ase certified tech!). it's cause those nuts are welded in before they box the sub frame.(weld it closed). and if that is the problem a mechanic won't fix it either they'll try to sell you a whole new subframe for about 3,000 with labor.

 

so what was the mechanics name that taught you how to do this retarded procedure?? ive been working at staten island honda for 2 years now and ive never EVER seen anyone of the techs cut holes in a subframe.. You sir are an ***. Again, there is access to any bolt on any car period.. I actually have an older accord in the bay behind me as we speak, and im laughing at you. Good day.

 

why would anyone want to cut a hole in a subframe...if a bolt was put in there its oblviously made to get taken out. dont ever cut a hole in a subframe. i just think that your advice is pointless because you say you are a mechanic, but would cut a hole in a subframe...so maybe you are a mechanic ( BACKYARD ) i also work at SI honda and am a tech here...no1 has ever cut a hole in a subframe before. thats because you are able to get any bolt out with cutting something to reach it. if it was put in there, its made to be taken out. ciao!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SNYPR2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well thats the way the mechanic at honda showed me how to do it so thats the way i fix it. anyway the subframe is full of holes to begin with an so by making an existing hole bigger i don't think it'll do much if any to the car. i've seen cars, especially older accords come in because the customer just wants an alignment and the sub-frame is cracked right down the middle. there is an access hole that honda puts there but it's too small even for the smallest 14mm wrench trust me i have alot of wrenches (ase certified tech!). it's cause those nuts are welded in before they box the sub frame.(weld it closed). and if that is the problem a mechanic won't fix it either they'll try to sell you a whole new subframe for about 3,000 with labor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahaha, Stop posting. All you are doing is weakening the subframe. I'm not a honda tech but if something is real hard to get at there's either a SST for it or your doing something wrong.

Hey OP found anything yet?

 

Bro....

even though the cv boots aren't torn it could still be your axle.

Go and buy some axles from autozone...get the lifetime warranty....
(it'll come in handy)

and swap them out.... I had the same problem with my car. Up untill a couple days ago when I finally got tired of being mislead and hearing that annoying sound...clunk clunk clunk clunk... everytime I turned...

Trust me you'll be satisfied.

 

cv joint is probably bad on that side..18's will wreak havoc on ur front end..

 

didn't see that it was both side...might be ur axles...did u do a swap before....the axles might have been damaged or a little off and with little wheels u don't notice..but the 18's will let u know the truth...

 

as for putting holes in the subframe.....go for it...disconect the airbags while u are at it..and take out some of ur disc pads as well..

 

so is this certainly an axle/ CV joint problem? i would take it to the shop but i dont wanna get charged until i know what the problem is. is there a way i can see if it for sure is the CV joint making that clanking sound?

Also, how much do the autozone axles go for? and do they install them for you, & will new axles fix my problem?

thanks

 

here's a thought. i have heard that when going with bigger wheels sometimes the springs don't sit right after you put the wheel on the car and take it off the jack. You did say that this started after you got the car back from the shop right? If so this could be a problem.

 

Im not exactly sure.. but my friend gets his axels from napa.. (about an hour closer to napa than autozone).. and their life time warrentied.. A shaft is going to run you about 100 bucks.. give or take 20 dollars

-Cody

 

well what have you done to cancel out the other options i gave you? or anyone else gave you for that matter? if your so dialed in on replacing axles be my guest, but if your just taking a wild guess at it you might as well take it to a shop..