I know there's a million of these cage threads, but everytime I search I can't find what I am looking for. If you know of a thread that answers my question, please direct me there.

Otherwise, I have a 91 CRX that will see mostly Solo 1/Autocross duty. I am contemplating installing a welded in 4 point cage. Made of the appropiate tubing and welded by me(certified all position pressure vessel Tig welder). My question is whether or not I should do this due to the fact that I'll be driving it to events on the street and the occasional Sunday cruise. It's NOT my DD, but I do enjoy a stret drive every once in a while and I don't want it to be a full on track car. The car will have a 1 pc FG race seat and harness mounted to the cage. I am 6'3" tall and fear that if the car ever goes over I'm a dead man, I'd like a full cage but know that I can't street drive it at that point unless I'm wearing a helmet, which isn't going to happen.

So, 4 point good idea, or bad?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

D.

 

If you take the car on the track...but the bar in. I'm not sure why you even have to ask such a question 6'3 is really tall! i'm pretty sure you head will be real close to the main hoop on the rex...but regardless i'd rather pad it and drive it on the street then go to the track...with no bar.

 

Safety first.

 

So no issues at all. Just install it? Cool. I will use roll bar padding(the expensive stuff, not pipe insulation)

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Masta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So no issues at all. Just install it? Cool. I will use roll bar padding(the expensive stuff, not pipe insulation)

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am NOT an advocate of someone driving on the street with a cage. Waaaayyyy too many chances of doing serious damage to your head.

Having said that, if you still choose to do so, use a aluminum 1 peice racing seat, and put a head rest (that is purposely made for the that seat) on the outside of the seat. The purpose of that is to protect your bucket from the side top crossbar of the cage. On your top front crossbar, make that bar with a slight bend up on the outer ends so to get as much height inside the car as possible. If you can, mount the seat as far to the right as you can, so put more distance between you and the top left bar. Other than that, wear a bucket everywhere you go, if not, its your brain, and you only have one.


Donnie

 

Are you referring to a 4 point/half cage? I'm not installing a full cage for the exact reason you speak of, which is banging my head off of it.

 

by '4 pt cage' i'm pretty sure masta is referring to a 4 pt roll bar. they dont make 4 pt cages as far as i know, lol, be a pretty crappy cage if they did

 

you are correct sir. There's always discussion surrounding the Roll bar and roll cage, but yes, for clarity, roll bar will suffice.

 

I'd recommend a roll bar even in cars that drive on the track. I can't stand driving around in a car where my head is level with the bottom of most SUV and track bumpers.

Most bars that I've seen have been MIG'd. I thought TIG was reserved for smaller welds? Of course most exhaust manifold are TIG'd and they seem to have good penetration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Most bars that I've seen have been MIG'd. I thought TIG was reserved for smaller welds? Of course most exhaust manifold are TIG'd and they seem to have good penetration. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Heres a tigged cage

http://www.rally.subaru.com/20...ge=14


and here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1755689

 

I'v ebuilt cages before, and they were all Tigged, I wouldn't do it any other way.
It looks like I MAY be buying an 88 B16 CRX as a parts car that has a cro-moly 4-point in it, I wonder if I can chop it out and reuse it? Here's a pic:

 

Whenever you do it, just make sure your head is a little below the level of the top of the main hoop, as well as forward from it (rather than directly under). That won't be easy with your height, but it is possible. If you're stuck using stock seats, open them up and remove some of the padding on the bottom cushing to drop you down a little.

 

Good advice, maybe I can lean the cage back a hair to get it away from my head a bit more.
AS far as the seat, I'll be running a FG 1pc seat that is bolted to the floor. I can't sit upright in the stock seats.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by essex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heres a tigged cage
http://www.rally.subaru.com/20...ge=14
and here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1755689</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice!
I just took a welding class at the local community college, so this is still new to me.

 

&lt;--- 6'8", 90 civic si, autopower rollbar. lots of head clearance with a custom mounted sparco evo.
youll have zero issues with a fixed back seat and a rollbar.

 

wow, 6'8" That's nuts. I had a 90 Si and used to have to duck big time with the stock seats, so I bought some Recaros. I've had the Fg seta in the car already and I'm pretty low, I am thinking about fabbing a lower seat pan area in the floor though.

 

mine is pritty much on the floor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Masta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good advice, maybe I can lean the cage back a hair to get it away from my head a bit more.
AS far as the seat, I'll be running a FG 1pc seat that is bolted to the floor. I can't sit upright in the stock seats. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Jury rigging, can be very dangerous. (Lean back cage jezzz)
I would respectfully suggest that you do MORE than just bolt it through the floor. Talk about a live missile. Back the bolts up with a steel plate 6" X 6" of 1/4" plate under the floor pan at the least, for each bolt, so it doesn't just tear out in an impact.

But it's your life, pal.

Yeah, I'm old and don't know chit. BTDT

Donnie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D Jaws II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jury rigging, can be very dangerous. (Lean back cage jezzz)
I would respectfully suggest that you do MORE than just bolt it through the floor. Talk about a live missile. Back the bolts up with a steel plate 6" X 6" of 1/4" plate under the floor pan at the least, for each bolt, so it doesn't just tear out in an impact.

But it's your life, pal.

Yeah, I'm old and don't know chit. BTDT

Donnie </TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean you dont trust the way the stock seats bolt? or are you talking about bolting through the floorboard? i made some adapter plates for each side of the seats that bolt to the stock locations...i figured that was already reinforced and everything so it'd be ok to use them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean you dont trust the way the stock seats bolt? or are you talking about bolting through the floorboard? i made some adapter plates for each side of the seats that bolt to the stock locations...i figured that was already reinforced and everything so it'd be ok to use them</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock locations, NOT AT ALL. Yes through the floorboard as you call it. If you back each corner of the seat with a sizable steel plate to reinforce the mounting point below the floorpan, I will have no issues. But, using it as stock, no way. I'm not trying to bust your chops D., but simply trying to get you to realize that sometimes it is better to over build it, since the car will be used for something it wasn't originally specifically designed to do. Plus, you aren't a small guy either, and there is a lot of force/weight being held by what, if an impact should occur.

Good luck.


Donnie