Just looking for some opinions since im about to swap the cam. Evenutally planning on n2o.

 

BUMP

 

crower stage 3 or the 59500 zex cam

 

im planning on shaving the head and porting it also. So would this change the cam that i would need??

 

No, actually pick a cam that is capable of performing the way you want and have your headwork done to support the cam profile. Crower 3 is a very aggressive cam for all-motor.

Do minimal shaving to true up the mating surface of the head, if you want higher compression do that with piston selection.

 

crower stg3

 

If you're planning on nitrous, I'd say a Crower Stage 2 Turbo or Comp Cams/Zex 105300. A super aggressive n/a cam will be great when you're off the bottle but it's going to waste a lot of your charge while you are on the bottle. And since we only have one cam we can't dial out the overlap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96 EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im planning on shaving the head and porting it also. So would this change the cam that i would need??</TD></TR></TABLE>

first of all do not shave the head you will f**k timing and i have heard some horror stories from people with shaving head end of the day your choice

if you want higher comp then change out the pistons for either forged which i never recommend unless you got hella money or you rebuild all the time due to loser tolerances

bare this in mind

The 1988-1989 D16A1 Engine came with some really high dome pistons, they will increase your compression ratio as follows:
d16a1 pistons (stock bore) in the following with a y8/z6 metal head gasket (no mill):
d16a6= 11.0: 1 compression
d16z6= 12.0: 1 compression
d16y8= 12.6: 1 compression


now the cam personally i have always recommended ZEX/Comp cams for the single in my opinion they are the best they have always shown the best results for there stage

also i think i was honda tuning did a test to back up what i am saying

my opinion if you gotta smog is CA and also cost effective then i would stick stage one

BUT if you wanna go all out and you do not have to smog or you enjoy taking big risks with smog then go stage 2

either way do not forget your going to need to rework your ecu to take advantage of your mods what ever they may be!

personal choices for that would be either crome or hondata crome been the cheaper choice but has yielded good results

 

Nothing at all wrong with shaving the head--as long as you don't get ridiculous like over 0.040"--as a matter of fact --its a bit better (not by much) but it does reduce the quench distance on motors like Hondas--most of which have zero quench. Also a good thing about cutting the head--and/or decking the block is that you can still get high compression without having to run a piston with a super peaked dome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing at all wrong with shaving the head--as long as you don't get ridiculous like over 0.040"--as a matter of fact --its a bit better (not by much) but it does reduce the quench distance on motors like Hondas--most of which have zero quench. Also a good thing about cutting the head--and/or decking the block is that you can still get high compression without having to run a piston with a super peaked dome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when ever you take for want of a better word meat from the engine never a good idea

but to take the point you made about quench then simply remove the middle layer from the head gasket?

 

for awesome sohc cams check out will @ exospeed he is a member on here