Brake upgrade, can't remember something...
For the master cylinder in these things, you can run the EX 4dr sedan model master cylinder (15/16"). Just making sure that's the right car, right?
Also, what was the upgrade for the brake booster on that? Same car or was it the teggy? I remember one required no mods...
Also, what was the upgrade for the brake booster on that? Same car or was it the teggy? I remember one required no mods...
You can run the 15/16" MC from the EX is it a bolt on affair. I had one for a little while and passed it off to my bro in law when I got the Integra booster and MC.
The Integra booster and MC will shorten the travel for the brake pedal in relation to the braking power. The best on for the street is the 90+ Integra non ABS booster and MC they have a tag on them that should read 260v.
If you get the Integra ABS booster and MC is it will be marked as a 290v and you must change the fitting on the back line is different than our cars.
The Integra booster and MC will shorten the travel for the brake pedal in relation to the braking power. The best on for the street is the 90+ Integra non ABS booster and MC they have a tag on them that should read 260v.
If you get the Integra ABS booster and MC is it will be marked as a 290v and you must change the fitting on the back line is different than our cars.
booster is bigger on the EX too.
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/brakepartslist.xls
the prelude and accord MC is 15/16 as well, but the ports are a bit different, but totally bendable and usable.
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/brakepartslist.xls
the prelude and accord MC is 15/16 as well, but the ports are a bit different, but totally bendable and usable.
So both the 260v Integra and booster as well as the EX booster and combo have 15/16's MC's and both are direct bolt on, no mods required and they'll have similar pedal travel...correct?
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Wait a minute there Mr Toad.
If both the EX and Integra master cylinders are 15/16, the pedal travel should be the same.
It's possible that the "boost" is different between the EX and Integra boosters and that would effect pressure required at the pedal, but the throw should be strictly a function of the cylinder bore.
Wes
If both the EX and Integra master cylinders are 15/16, the pedal travel should be the same.
It's possible that the "boost" is different between the EX and Integra boosters and that would effect pressure required at the pedal, but the throw should be strictly a function of the cylinder bore.
Wes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait a minute there Mr Toad.
If both the EX and Integra master cylinders are 15/16, the pedal travel should be the same.
It's possible that the "boost" is different between the EX and Integra boosters and that would effect pressure required at the pedal, but the throw should be strictly a function of the cylinder bore.
Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is the pedal effort due to the booster. Which is going to affect the actual travel of the pedal. With the EX MC on my car the pedal effort was slightly less than stock. Now with the Integra booster and MC the effort is so light that it greatly reduces the travel of the pedal.
To do the same amount of braking I get into the pedal around 1/2"-1" with the Integra setup. The EX MC was going a good 5"-7" of pedal travel.
I completely understand what you are saying but the booster is where the difference is. You also have to remember that the rod in the booster can also reduce the pedal travel. Hence why the 290v booster and 260v MC can't be switched, or ABS vs non ABS which ever you prefer.
If both the EX and Integra master cylinders are 15/16, the pedal travel should be the same.
It's possible that the "boost" is different between the EX and Integra boosters and that would effect pressure required at the pedal, but the throw should be strictly a function of the cylinder bore.
Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is the pedal effort due to the booster. Which is going to affect the actual travel of the pedal. With the EX MC on my car the pedal effort was slightly less than stock. Now with the Integra booster and MC the effort is so light that it greatly reduces the travel of the pedal.
To do the same amount of braking I get into the pedal around 1/2"-1" with the Integra setup. The EX MC was going a good 5"-7" of pedal travel.
I completely understand what you are saying but the booster is where the difference is. You also have to remember that the rod in the booster can also reduce the pedal travel. Hence why the 290v booster and 260v MC can't be switched, or ABS vs non ABS which ever you prefer.
just as long as you realize it doesnt affect your power at the calipers. its simply user preference and comfort.
however, if you do need to upgrade MC when you make both front and back brakes bigger. or else you will have too long of pedal travel, and possibly not enough.
however, if you do need to upgrade MC when you make both front and back brakes bigger. or else you will have too long of pedal travel, and possibly not enough.
See I was always under the impression you could upgrade with DA rear discs, and DA front discs and keep the same MC/boost so long as you switched to the 4040 prop valve (already done). So now I guess I should be looking at getting that MC/booster sooner than planned, I suppose...
no. EF_status did that and found a very long pedal travel. he needed a bigger MC. its simple hydraulics.
like i always recommend, dont change your brake parts in pieces, try to transfer or mimic the complete system from the donor car.
like i always recommend, dont change your brake parts in pieces, try to transfer or mimic the complete system from the donor car.
Hmm...I'll probably go ahead and get it done. I think my breaks have air in the lines and leak of fluid because the paint is chipping away on the booster between it and the MC. I think it may be time to go ahead and upgrade it as well, bleed them with one of those tools from autozone and just be done with it the right way and for the last time...fresh fluid and all.
Thanks, you three!
Thanks, you three!
eh? what bleeding tool?
do it the right way. use 2 people.
to save time, i found that you dont have to open/close for every pedal pump. just make sure the hose arcs up a few inches so that theres always a good amount of fluid above the nipple and you can pump repeatedly before closing it. makes the process MUCH quicker, and less hectic. just be careful, you go thru more fluid much faster, so dont forget to check the reservoir.
do it the right way. use 2 people.
to save time, i found that you dont have to open/close for every pedal pump. just make sure the hose arcs up a few inches so that theres always a good amount of fluid above the nipple and you can pump repeatedly before closing it. makes the process MUCH quicker, and less hectic. just be careful, you go thru more fluid much faster, so dont forget to check the reservoir.
Yeah, Autozone has a rent-a-tool that I guess sucks the fluid out? I don't know, but I've seen it in a picture somewhere...
Anyways, the brake fluid last time I bled it I pumped out and put through like a bottle of fluid while bleeding. It still came out pretty brown and chalky, though. So what I was thinking is just get that vacuum tool and suck a ****-ton through each individual line and try to get ALL the air out...cuz it feels like there's air after my last bleed job...
Anyways, the brake fluid last time I bled it I pumped out and put through like a bottle of fluid while bleeding. It still came out pretty brown and chalky, though. So what I was thinking is just get that vacuum tool and suck a ****-ton through each individual line and try to get ALL the air out...cuz it feels like there's air after my last bleed job...
dont use a vacuum tool. it doesnt work well, and youll get blisters. yes, ive used it before. it also sucks air through the threads and back into the caliper. not a good thing.
get anyone off the street to help you. its much easier and effective that way.
you need at least one bottle to do a complete flush.
get anyone off the street to help you. its much easier and effective that way.
you need at least one bottle to do a complete flush.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just as long as you realize it doesnt affect your power at the calipers. its simply user preference and comfort.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no difference at the power at the calipers meaning no difference in better stopping power?
putting say 90-93 integra brake rotors (which are bigger than the ef's) will increase stopping power right? With those rotors, do you need the same year caliper, pads, master cylinder, brake booster? Ive also heard that you can use DOT4 with this? Is there more parts to that brake upgrade then listed?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no difference at the power at the calipers meaning no difference in better stopping power?
putting say 90-93 integra brake rotors (which are bigger than the ef's) will increase stopping power right? With those rotors, do you need the same year caliper, pads, master cylinder, brake booster? Ive also heard that you can use DOT4 with this? Is there more parts to that brake upgrade then listed?



