Ok heres the set up

93 JDM h22a w/ hasport mounts
stock p13 ecu
new cap/rotor/plugs/wires/t belt/ water pump/no balance shaft belt

I put the motor in, everything went smooth as pie. I took it out of a running car that had NO CEL's.

Now that its in, it barely runs, I checked codes and I got IAT sensor/vtec pressure switch/map sensor/IAC valve/engine coolant temp sensor

Ok, I'm an *** I forgot the map sensor, so I wire one in. BAM that codes gone.

Replace the IAT sensor and bam that codes gone.

Unplug and replug the IACV and that codes gone after a few more times of turning it on and off.

swap the two plugs on the water neck and under the dizzy for the temp sensor and the ECTS code goes away

The fan still doesn't kick on. The car will not idle at all. It just dies at anything below 2k rpms. And hesitates AWFUL when I try and drive it.

I pulled the timing covers off and notched the valve cover so I could repeatedly keep checking the t belt to make sure it wasn't jumping time. Engine ground has shows .5 on the ohm meter. The dizzy is brand new. The injector resistor box is known to be good. I even checked the wires for continuity before I wired it up. So it's not like i got the wrong wiring diagram for it.

I'm just at the end of my rope guys. I'm not a dumb person but I know this is a st00pid problem that I'm just not thinking through. Hoping you guys can maybe help me out a bit here because there may be something I'm over looking. TIA-Eric

 

Also I wanted to mention when revving it, it sounds like a high h/p turbo car on a two step. If that maybe gives you guys a clue on to what's wrong.

 

did you make sire there was a ground going from the chassis to the tranny?

 

So all the cel codes are gone now? Something simple to check is make sure u got ur plug wires wired up right to the dizzy. Also check ur spark plugs, when I ran my car with the map cel on for like 15 minutes in fouled up 1 of my spark plugs from running too rich and i was only running on 3 cylinders and had a similar experience. Also, what does the car idle at? Does it surge or stay the same? And what exactly do u mean by it sounding like a turbo car? Are u hearing a BOV?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_COUPE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you make sire there was a ground going from the chassis to the tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE> Not to thread jack here, but is that ground wire really that important? I've been running mine without one on my h22 swap for 6 months now with no real problems. Never came with a chassis/tranny ground so I never bothered to hook it up.

 

no, it sounds like a turbo car on a two step you know that loud popping noise that sounds like a backfire?

I have a valve cover ground/ a ground from the chassis to the trans and the ECU ground on the t-stat housing is good.

the two codes I get now are 21 and 22 but I know they're pinned in the right location and the sensors were good before I dropped the motor in.

hell I even thought I had some bad gas so i drained the tank and put 6 gallons of fresh 93 octane in.

 

I'm open to all opinions at this point.

 

If it's backfiring it could be running really rich, or just not igniting the fuel. Did u ever check ur spark plugs?

 

spark plugs aren't it, I pulled the wires one by one while the engine was running and it went down to the 3 cylinders

I changed the resistor box this morning. I got it to idle @ 700rpms while and it drives but it still just doesnt have any ***** what so ever.

 

ok now I changed the plugs/fuel filter cleaned the IACV. it runs good now but not perfect. I'm still getting a code 22 VTEC pressure valve . Thats the green plug on the solenoid assembly correct? I tried switching around wires cause maybe I thought I grounded the wrong one but that didn't work either. I guess it just went bad in one of those moments the honda gods weren't watching out for me.

It still doesnt feel 100% correct. But I'm assuming thats because of the CEL.

 

i pmed you

 

I also noticed teh dummy light for my oil pressure sensor isn't coming on when I turn the key on. will that affect my oil pressure switch?

 

sorry i couldnt help

 

it has to be the ecu is just bad. finding another p13 in a hurry isn't going to be an easy task.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irishone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it has to be the ecu is just bad. finding another p13 in a hurry isn't going to be an easy task.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the car wouldnt run if the ecu was bad. an ecu doesnt have a "level" of badness to it. It is either working or fried. If you can crank the engine then the ecu is doing it's job.

its either a sensor that's bad (probably your vtec solenoid since you're throwing that code) or something in the wiring.

have you checked all the pins at the ecu to make sure they are in tight?? had a problem with a prelude that would run perfect then suddenly buck hard and cutoff. ended up being a corroded ecu pin.

oh yeah, have you shipped my teg mounts yet?? lol.

 

mounts were shipped out last friday. you should have them by tomarrow.


I got another ecu last night. and changed the vtec pressure switch. VTEC crosses over just fine.

I'm getting an IACV code again. which doesnt make sense but I'm going to replace that later today.

The thing that's stumping me hard now is that the fuel injectors are just dieing out after I run the car hard. Could it be my fuel pump not working hard enough. I have a spare walbro 255 layin around I could throw in but I really don't want to do that.

 

maybe take the injectors by pepboys or something and have them flowed and tested.

one could be shorting out and causing them all to overheat.

were you able to hear the h22 swap run before you bought it??

 

I heard the car run. it ran fine.
I tested the resistence on each injector and they were all within spec.

how would I be able to tell if one is shorting out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irishone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I heard the car run. it ran fine.
I tested the resistence on each injector and they were all within spec.

how would I be able to tell if one is shorting out?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

after rereading the posts, it really does sound like a wiring problem. obviously if the engine ran perfect in the old car and then you swapped it in and it runs like trash, then you start going through plugs and such and it starts to clear up problems...then it definitely sounds like a wiring problem.

maybe you just need to pull the entire harness, unloom it, and start going through it completely.

 

basically what I did. I use to be a lot more careful when I did swaps. I just got cocky on this one I guess.

Thanks for everyones help. The only codes I'm getting now are EGR and the knock sensor. Which the knock is broken, and the EGR isn't hooked up.

Again. Thanks so much guys-Eric

 

What engine harness are you using?
Did you take the balancer shafts out? I can't remember, can you do that without removing the timing belt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What engine harness are you using?
Did you take the balancer shafts out? I can't remember, can you do that without removing the timing belt?
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irishone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically what I did. I use to be a lot more careful when I did swaps. I just got cocky on this one I guess.

Thanks for everyones help. The only codes I'm getting now are EGR and the knock sensor. Which the knock is broken, and the EGR isn't hooked up.

Again. Thanks so much guys-Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so every thing is fine now?

 

sure is. thanks for all your help

 

so it was the ecu?