02 civic starts and stalls??
ive got an 02 civic 1.7 vtech DIS ignition that starts and stalls instantly, i have checked fuel pressure very goo even when stalling no codes in PCM i can read but i cant see datastream, individual coils per cylinders swapped all the pcm/fi relays around anyone have an idea?? please email me jsmith1220@yahoo.com
Sounds to me like an immobilizer issue.
Take it to the dealership and have the encryption in the key checked to be sure the ECU is still reading it properly.
And for the record, it's not vtech. No H needed. Just plain VTEC.
Take it to the dealership and have the encryption in the key checked to be sure the ECU is still reading it properly.
And for the record, it's not vtech. No H needed. Just plain VTEC.
No problem man... it's just alot of people on H-T like to flame people that are new for PETTY stuff like that. But like I suggested, just take it to the dealership or a shop that could do it.
i work for a used car dealership and it came in on a hook today i was told customer was driving down the highway then it cut out, so are we still thinking immobilizer??? also the green key on dash goes out when its in run position, check engine light goes out when it starts so im sure it sees the crank signal, anything else come to mind??
Well, if it cut out on him, then it shouldn't, and more than likely is not the immobilizer.
How many miles on the car?
Timing could be off a hair, could have a bad coil, bad plug or something.
When it starts, how long does it run and is it a smooth run or a rough one?
How many miles on the car?
Timing could be off a hair, could have a bad coil, bad plug or something.
When it starts, how long does it run and is it a smooth run or a rough one?
starts for 2 seconds then off i can throttle up but only goes for those 2 seconds, runs smooth for the 2 seconds. 63k miles on car i unplugged each coil seperatley and tried to start same thing wasnt sure if something was taking refernce volts away, tried the map, iad, tps and still same result, checked power for coil while starting car i dont loose volts swapped the relays around still same thing there is a cold air pipe installed and IAT was connected, also has a remote stater which i disconnected and put all wires back to OEM
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My only other suggestion would be to diagnose for a bad coil or bad timing. It sounds like the spark is stopping SOMEWHERE. Just need to find out where. Because you said you are getting fuel all the way until cutoff.
Get with a dealership or Helm's manual and get the specs on timing and ignition voltages and test it. It is the only way you will find where and why it is cutting out.
With 63,000, the possibility of it jumping time is not LIKELY, but still a possibility.
Get with a dealership or Helm's manual and get the specs on timing and ignition voltages and test it. It is the only way you will find where and why it is cutting out.
With 63,000, the possibility of it jumping time is not LIKELY, but still a possibility.
thanks alot im lookin up the specs now on alldata so i can be prepared for morning almost like the pcm is loosing voltage to supply the coils thanks for your help if you think of anything please post
Smokin151
i just found this
The engine starts but then dies
The culprit could be the purge control solenoid (PCS). If the PCS is stuck open, it can let vapors from the EVAP canister get pushed into the intake manifold during a fill-up. Too much vapor can cause the engine extended crank time, or the engine not to start, or to start and then stall after the tank is filled.
To fix this problem, check the PCS and the service port for contamination. If they're lean, then replace the PCS.
Smokin151
i just found this
The engine starts but then dies
The culprit could be the purge control solenoid (PCS). If the PCS is stuck open, it can let vapors from the EVAP canister get pushed into the intake manifold during a fill-up. Too much vapor can cause the engine extended crank time, or the engine not to start, or to start and then stall after the tank is filled.
To fix this problem, check the PCS and the service port for contamination. If they're lean, then replace the PCS.
follow up on cars condition.....after checking all the grounds and powers at pcm i was checking CKP(crankshaft position sensor) and with test light at pin in pcm car started but didnt sound to good in the the timing cover, removed cover to find tensioner spring let loose and was in between crank and sensor wasnt finding TDC which surprised me the check engine light proved out(maybe honda should look into this) any ways i replaced timing belt, tensioner and CKP sensor car is cured....
glad to hear u found the problem but next time do yourself a favor and dont use a test light for pretty much anything, they dont tell you a damn thing and the amount of current that a testlight draws is way more than any sensor will ever use, im suprised that the pcm survived owell if it comes back in a few weeks you'll know why
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