Today i added two legs to my Neuspeed strut bar.these legs tied it to the firewall,similar to the Carbing type bars.
i originally wanted to do this to add strength when i was thinking about doing the H2B in my car,and would have to cut back and box in an area of the frame rail on the driver side(i wanted to keep A/C and would need more room).i was scared that would weaken the frame in that area,which is right around where the suspension mounting points are.i'd planned to mod the strut bar and make a set of the fender braces similar to what some companies sell.
i decided not to do the H2B,but i did go ahead and mod the strut bar since i had the materials already.
i wasn't sure how effective it would be,since i always thought the upper part of the firewall where my new section would attach was pretty flimsy,but it's actually sturdy.
i used 3/4" diameter, 0.120" wall tubing,and 1/8" thick L to make the firewall bracket.i used the two threaded inserts already in the firewall.

what a difference!with all the engine mount inserts,i've always had a ton of vibration.the dash shakes and the steering wheel shakes about 1" side to side and rattles when the car is idling.now there is no rattling,the dash doesn't move,and the steering wheel only has the slightest bit of movement.steering feel seems a little better,but that could very well be the placebo effect.i guess all the engine vibration was being picked up in the firewall,but now that it's braced,everything attached to it has stopped moving.
i'm happy!no more sitting at stoplights with everything rattling.




chris

 

very nice!!

 

x2

 

That looks really good way to make something good even better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblues &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That looks really good way to make something good even better </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i agree i have always love the neuspeed bar the most even if it is ugly or not super jdm i believe it is the sturdiest front upper to date

 

very nice , im ganna have to try it

 

Looks good.

 

Very clean bro. Looks like it should have been that way when it came from Neuspeed's factory !

 

Since there are two legs that go to each shock tower, if you put another tube connecting the two at the top of the bends of the legs, you'd have it just about as strong as possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since there are two legs that go to each shock tower, if you put another tube connecting the two at the top of the bends of the legs, you'd have it just about as strong as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm having a hard time picturing what you're saying.
Chris

 

 

Thats what i will be doing to mine i have everything cut just need to tigg it.

Looks good man

 

Very nice

 

good idea! doesnt look bad either...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since there are two legs that go to each shock tower, if you put another tube connecting the two at the top of the bends of the legs, you'd have it just about as strong as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he is saying the two pieces that go to the strut tower that are behind the straight bar, if you would connect those two together (read adding another straight bar between them) you would be triangulating the mounting point on the firewall with back two arms to the tower. Just a WAG. (Wild *** Guess)


I appreciate your idea and efforts to better and great product.


Cheers,


Donnie

 

I'm not sure I agree with your engineering behind your tube placement, but I guess it looks interesting.

 

for a good idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure I agree with your engineering behind your tube placement, but I guess it looks interesting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what would you recommend?with all the obstacles i had to work around,i thought this was the best placement.
version 2.0 in the works,as i still have two more of these strut bars.
Chris

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure I agree with your engineering behind your tube placement, but I guess it looks interesting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was trying to figure out what Bakeoff was attempting to explain. Not my idea, just the explanation.

I like chris's idea though. Kudo's chris.


Cheers,


Donnie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what would you recommend?with all the obstacles i had to work around,i thought this was the best placement.
version 2.0 in the works,as i still have two more of these strut bars.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that is a good point. I'm sure it's tough to work around everything in the engine bay. I would just suggest that you try and triangulate your bars to the mount points if possible. Triangles=good. Trapazoids=bad.

 

I think it looks very good. The only thing i can see is that the tube from drivers side is connected to an inward bend of the tube. The right side to me is mounted correctly since it is on an outward bend. With this it is supplying opposing force to make it less likely to flex. I would've tried to mount it on farthest point on the left side. But i'm not sure how it'd fit since the MC is right there.

I have that problem with my Carbing 3 point over my brake resevoir cap.

If this a repeat from someone else's observance, forgive me as i don't read all the posts.

Excellent work though.

 

something different....good work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondabitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I think it looks very good. The only thing i can see is that the tube from drivers side is connected to an inward bend of the tube. The right side to me is mounted correctly since it is on an outward bend. With this it is supplying opposing force to make it less likely to flex. I would've tried to mount it on farthest point on the left side. But i'm not sure how it'd fit since the MC is right there.

I have that problem with my Carbing 3 point over my brake resevoir cap.

If this a repeat from someone else's observance, forgive me as i don't read all the posts.
Excellent work though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i definitely see your point.the tubes are basically as far out as possible,the M/C and fuel filter being the limiting parts.the two legs that branch off to each mounting point on the shock tower are very strong once bolted to the car,so i'm not too worried about the driver's side flexing.i'd considered bridging the two legs on each side where the bends are to further reinforce them(and this would help with your concern on the driver side),but it's SO strong once on the car,i just don't see it being worth the extra weight and work.

chris