well i have done tons of research on this topic, but the answers have been very blurry and wide. so i have a several of question, since i will be doing my own posting and polish. i thought i would ask for my first pnp job and future ones too.

first i was told not to port out the intake. it would benifit to used a 60-80 grit sandpaper on the intake so its not smooth.

second when porting the exhaust side, it helps the exhaust carbon build up/airflow if the surface is smooth. how smooth, mirror smooth?

and last, pocket porting. does the rule apply to course and smooth, towards intake and exhaust? i really couldn't find very much info on this topic on pocket porting. and how much do you port on the pocket porting.

on a footnote i will talking my time on the porting and measuring everything. i'm not trying to over do it.

please any info, links would help. :TU:

thanks.

 

assuming that this is a vtec head its going to be hard for your first job you have to know how to port these heads ask any good builder.

 

ask PORTFLOW or AlanizTECHnologies

 

no it's a A6 non-vtec head w/a 272 delta regrind. a Z6 manni w/a 60mm GSR tb portmatch.

 

make friends with someone who has a flowbench

 

Many consider it a black art and you will only find just as many questions as answers. The port size, valve angles/widths etc are all application dependant. One thing i know about porting is people often overlook common sense.

Following the general rules often leads to general results, if that makes any sense.

 

it does make sense. it's just at time it's hard to decipher the bullshit and facts, without sounding like a noob. if that's make sense.
i was watching a engine building video on a civic block the other day cause i was bored and he stated the the head was pocket ported which i really never notice he said this the first time i saw it.

 

no one will be able to judge your work by looking at pictures. Except for maybe giving criticisms on port accuracy. You need a flow bench in order to determine whether or not you are moving in the right direction.

 

I would guess pocket porting is the same as bowl porting. That is what a type "R" has. Just the area behind the valve seat is done.

 

I've done a bunch of 4 cylinder heads, I could probably dig up some pics to help get you started if you want.
I do them all by hand, so it is an art to me....and it saves alot of money over having it done by a shop.
If you've got the money though, do it the more accurate way and have it CNC'ed / flowbenched.

 

here, I'm opening up the valve seat area....this spot is usually pretty small and restrictive. Of course, you have to recut the seat angle back in when you're done.

 

one of the n/a exhaust ports with some bowl or pocket shaping to smooth out airflow. This head has a low angle compared to the straight shot of the b16's...doesn't flow as well, but you get the idea of smoothness needed.

 

hope that helps you out.
as for the intake side, I use 50 grit paper and try to get rid of any casting flaws. And I always go in the direction of flow....kinda creates "riblets" for the air to tumble in to atomize better.

you know, there are plenty of Honda Performance books out there. You may want to pick up a couple...there are plenty of porting tips in most of them

 

http://www.theoldone.com
Go there. Half way down the page their will be an article on how to port b16 and d16 heads. Read each at least 3 times and get the concept before you lay into the head with your grinder.
Good luck.

 

Throat diameter = midrange power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Throat diameter = midrange power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Steve has nothing but good advice. Listen to him

 

when i started porting heads i first thing i did was gasket match the intake ports and exgaust ports. i also match the intake manifold to the gasket also.
from their you can start to get a feel of the flow. start off real slow when it comes to working inside the ports. (its alot easier if you disassemble the head)

 

lol, yeah i will be reading it 3x and then some more. i like to do things by the #'s. so it would be in the best intreste to send it to a machine shop to have the bowls ported and the valves recut. but to have it pocket ported does the valve guildes must remove/replace? and the next question w/pic. what's the verdic on the dimples in the intake injector chambers?

 

here's one of mine before the shop


and after





Modified by alterdcreations at 7:29 PM 10/28/2006

 

i just read that article<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theyoungone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.theoldone.com
Go there. Half way down the page their will be an article on how to port b16 </TD></TR></TABLE>
also a h22 in that article

 

really good reading, so can someone explain the dimples?

 

i guess it helps with the fuel atomization.
im unsure about that tho

 

The dimples are for fuel atomization.

 

The dimples do not atomize the fuel, the injector does that. The dimples are there, since the theory is, turbulence in the right spots=better atomization. This is also the reason why people usually leave the intake walls rough. The rough intake walls will not atomize the fuel more, they simply help deter puddling, by improving the "boundry-layer" effect, and help keep the fuel in suspension.

-josh-

 

now that make a whole hell of alot sense. which why ppl say not to smooth the intake side but port it yet keep it rough. while using a 50-80 grit for courseness.(if that's a word.) yet we tend to polish the exhaust side to help not builded carbon deposit. but the question is: how smooth?