Got a favor to ask, if someone could take a picture of there wheel.
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If some one could take a picture of there ED, or EF, LEFT wheel, and make sure the picture is out enough to see the wheel in the wheel well, but not too far out, still close enough in.
I need the picture to be taken with the wheel STRAIGHT please, because im having a problem with figuring out how exactly the EF/ED's wheels are suppose to sit and at what angle.
My car's left wheel is sitting slightly farther back in the wheel well then the right one is, there is also a gap in the front of it between the bumper and the wheel. The car's frame doesn't visually look bent, niether do i think anything is bent, control arm, or hub/spindle assembly.
Im also having thoughts of maybe my camber kit having something to do with it, but im not completely sure yet until i take the damn thing off, lol, any help greatly appreciated.
I need the picture to be taken with the wheel STRAIGHT please, because im having a problem with figuring out how exactly the EF/ED's wheels are suppose to sit and at what angle.
My car's left wheel is sitting slightly farther back in the wheel well then the right one is, there is also a gap in the front of it between the bumper and the wheel. The car's frame doesn't visually look bent, niether do i think anything is bent, control arm, or hub/spindle assembly.
Im also having thoughts of maybe my camber kit having something to do with it, but im not completely sure yet until i take the damn thing off, lol, any help greatly appreciated.
Interesting. I have this same issue with my CRX. I measured the distance between the the back part of the wheel well to the tire and my passenger side front wheel is shifted back about .25-.375". I thought it was the front crossmember, because mine was pretty dented in one spot, but I just replaced the whole damn thing and checked the radius rod bushings and the wheel still sits back. I don't have any visible frame damage either.
From what I know, the wheel should be centered in the wheel well though. Take some measurements from the tire to the front and back of wheel well and post them up on here.
From what I know, the wheel should be centered in the wheel well though. Take some measurements from the tire to the front and back of wheel well and post them up on here.
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I'll check the appearence forum, thanks.
I'll take measurements tommorow, thanks for the tip.
I don't see how my springs could cause the wheel to be shifted back in the wheel well?, all four of them are 1.5 springs, thats not even that low really.
I'll take measurements tommorow, thanks for the tip.
I don't see how my springs could cause the wheel to be shifted back in the wheel well?, all four of them are 1.5 springs, thats not even that low really.
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It seems to be in "inches" that the wheel is about 1 inch from the back of the fender, and about 2 give or take from the front of the bumper.
I don't see how my crossmember could be it either since it doesn't even have any bumps in it, just sratches on the bottom.
I'll still wait if someone could take a picture like i asked for in the first reply, of there left wheel please, thanks.
I don't see how my crossmember could be it either since it doesn't even have any bumps in it, just sratches on the bottom.
I'll still wait if someone could take a picture like i asked for in the first reply, of there left wheel please, thanks.
subscribed......... Im also having issues with my front wheels. The gap for the drivers side wheel is shorter than the one on the passenger side................... Its about 1 inch or so....... I was told that it was because maybe one of the shocks was broken.... but thats bs.. I replaced my springs with tein ones, and I still have the problem.....
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15x6.5 with a 40et and12lbs flik fuels
EX knuckles, ITR calipers, Prelude rotors. The car sits a little lower now but not much. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks. Do both sides have that same spacing?
EX knuckles, ITR calipers, Prelude rotors. The car sits a little lower now but not much. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks. Do both sides have that same spacing?
wow, I just noticed this on my car too.
My pass. wheel:
And my driver's side, mirrored for comparison:
I bought the car like a month ago too and just noticed it now. Drives fine and straight...
It has been in an accident though. So I'm going to get a frame/alignment shop to see if everything is within spec.
My pass. wheel:
And my driver's side, mirrored for comparison:
I bought the car like a month ago too and just noticed it now. Drives fine and straight...
It has been in an accident though. So I'm going to get a frame/alignment shop to see if everything is within spec.
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Still lookin for peoples opinions and answers to this mystery here. I don't know if broken shocks/struts, or sagging springs or worn out lower ball joints could cause any of this but if it's possible let me know because i don't have money for a frame machine to check it right now at a shop.
If i remember correct, nothing is bent, my frame looks straight, my cross member looks fine, no big dents or bends, only stratches. My bottom of the car that holds the lower control arms even looks fine!, maybe the lower control arm itself it bent perhaps and just not noticable to tell?.
If i remember correct, nothing is bent, my frame looks straight, my cross member looks fine, no big dents or bends, only stratches. My bottom of the car that holds the lower control arms even looks fine!, maybe the lower control arm itself it bent perhaps and just not noticable to tell?.
Well, there are 2 points that control where the knuckle is located in the front to back direction of the car. One is the ball joint at the upper A-arm. If this is moved back, then you will probably notice some serious **** bent up
. The other is where the upright connects to the Lower Control Arm, this point can move forward and back if the point where the radius rod bushings are located moves forward or back.
If yours is moved drastically, this is all I can think of:
A) The radius rod bushings are messed up and the rod has been allowed to pull backward under braking forces
or
B) The crossmember is bent (you said it's not hough)
or
C) The point where the crossmember bolts to the frame is bent (ie the frame is bent)
or
D) Somehow the radius rod is the wrong one and it's too long
That's all I can figure. I'm still trying to figure out which one of these is the case on my car
.
. The other is where the upright connects to the Lower Control Arm, this point can move forward and back if the point where the radius rod bushings are located moves forward or back.If yours is moved drastically, this is all I can think of:
A) The radius rod bushings are messed up and the rod has been allowed to pull backward under braking forces
or
B) The crossmember is bent (you said it's not hough)
or
C) The point where the crossmember bolts to the frame is bent (ie the frame is bent)
or
D) Somehow the radius rod is the wrong one and it's too long
That's all I can figure. I'm still trying to figure out which one of these is the case on my car
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, there are 2 points that control where the knuckle is located in the front to back direction of the car. One is the ball joint at the upper A-arm. If this is moved back, then you will probably notice some serious **** bent up
. The other is where the upright connects to the Lower Control Arm, this point can move forward and back if the point where the radius rod bushings are located moves forward or back.
If yours is moved drastically, this is all I can think of:
A) The radius rod bushings are messed up and the rod has been allowed to pull backward under braking forces
or
B) The crossmember is bent (you said it's not hough)
or
C) The point where the crossmember bolts to the frame is bent (ie the frame is bent)
or
D) Somehow the radius rod is the wrong one and it's too long
That's all I can figure. I'm still trying to figure out which one of these is the case on my car
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn i have that same problem, i thought it might be a bent frame cause i can see that the car was bottomed out, but it was hit on the other side. i replaced the crossmember and all the bolts lined up perfectly, and the buushings were fine. im going to go get it aligned and see what they say
. The other is where the upright connects to the Lower Control Arm, this point can move forward and back if the point where the radius rod bushings are located moves forward or back.If yours is moved drastically, this is all I can think of:
A) The radius rod bushings are messed up and the rod has been allowed to pull backward under braking forces
or
B) The crossmember is bent (you said it's not hough)
or
C) The point where the crossmember bolts to the frame is bent (ie the frame is bent)
or
D) Somehow the radius rod is the wrong one and it's too long
That's all I can figure. I'm still trying to figure out which one of these is the case on my car
.</TD></TR></TABLE>damn i have that same problem, i thought it might be a bent frame cause i can see that the car was bottomed out, but it was hit on the other side. i replaced the crossmember and all the bolts lined up perfectly, and the buushings were fine. im going to go get it aligned and see what they say
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See some of you guys got the same proble so i don't know if honda made a flaw like that when they made the car. I notice all of you got the problem with your passenger wheel, when i have the exact same problem but it's with my drivers wheel!, lol this is getting to be crazy figuring this out.
I already have plans to buy new upper ball joints, but if you think i should get sdome radius rod bushings then i will if there a ok price for now.
Btw the radius rod bushings are the bushings in the crossmember correct?, just wanna be sure before hand.
I already have plans to buy new upper ball joints, but if you think i should get sdome radius rod bushings then i will if there a ok price for now.
Btw the radius rod bushings are the bushings in the crossmember correct?, just wanna be sure before hand.




